1j swap havin some problems

[zSP3CTERz]

87
M/T

Used to be N/A

First things first it runs and it runs fine just some minor details need to be worked out.

(1) Also the car turns turns over and the turns off with the tps plugged in. when its unplugged you can start it

(2) There 3 plugs coming off the the harness thats come into the dash that i dont have a spot for. the RPM gauge doesnt work so im firguing thats one problem from there.

(3) The next is there this pretty large plug coming off the harness right below the
ignitor plug. me and the guy workin with it two pins on this plug need power in order to start the car.

 

[cruzinbill]

Maybe its me but that looks like a soarer harness......

 

[zSP3CTERz]

I have the ECU hooked up and all the plugs are there for it i just have 3 extra.

 

[zSP3CTERz]

anyone

 

[Nalleywhacker]

The Tps probally needs to be adjusted, oh and its an 88 not a 87 keith.:icon_wink

 

[zSP3CTERz]

how do i adjust the TPS. and i believe u its an 88 but whydoes the door jam say 87'

 

[OneJArpus]

how do i adjust the TPS. and i believe u its an 88 but whydoes the door jam say 87'

Late 86 to mid 87 = 1987
late 87 to early 88 = 88

or something of that nature

 

[josh930]

I say the tps problem is because you have a wiring problem. Test your voltage at the ecu for the tps and see what you get. Also test the voltage at each wire at the tps. Post what you get and I'll see if I can compare it with mine.

 

[zSP3CTERz]

I say the tps problem is because you have a wiring problem. Test your voltage at the ecu for the tps and see what you get. Also test the voltage at each wire at the tps. Post what you get and I'll see if I can compare it with mine.

so how do i adjust the tps

 

[GotTurbos?]

TPS Calibration: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42759&highlight=tps+adjustment+calibration


here is a link to all the connectors:

http://web.archive.org/web/20051216114417/www.1jz-gte.us/documents/SubDocs4/Connector+IDs.pdf

IIRC the grey smaller one in your picture is for the hydrofan, if you're not using a hydrofan then you don't need it. The other two dont end up plugging into anything, but you end up swapping some of the wires from them to the 7m dash connectors when you do the wiring for the harness.

Here is the wiring for the tachometer, verify that you have swapped the wire from the JZA70 IG1 connector to the MA70 M1 connector for the tach signal.

http://web.archive.org/web/20051216123950/www.1jz-gte.us/documents/SubDocs4/IG1(87-89).pdf


And I usually post this link anytime someone has a 1j swap question as it is pretty much the only thing I needed when I did my swap, all my info came from here:
http://web.archive.org/web/20051227112114/www.1jz-gte.us/92Supra6.html

Jon

 

[zSP3CTERz]

thanks everyone for all the good info

 

[jnianekeo]

Just to add on:

for your tach, you mentioned having an N/A body. So I'm guessing you are using the same N/A Gauge Cluster.

You should still hook up the Tach Signal to your M1 plug, but the N/A Cluster still wont work.

7mge used a distributor to get a tach reading, where a 7mgte or 1jzgte, 2jz etc uses coil packs and igniter. (dont quote me on this, my guess)

You have 3 options to get a good tach signal:

1. Get a Turbo Gauge Cluster

2. Get an aftermarket Tach

3. Bypass the first resistor you see going into the Gauge cluster where it says (IG-), I've done this to sc300 and cressidas all have been dead on to the dyno all the way to redline.

to bypass this resistor, simply solder in a short jumper from one end of the resistor to the other end.