1987 turbo blown head gasket. questions then build thread.

[mustangmatt98]

Well I officially have a blown gasket. She keeps skipping bad on first start up then clears up and runs worse and worse as the temp rises. Used a gallon of coolant going to work and back and it didn't hit the ground and the intercooler wasn't wet. No heat out the vents and heat gauge fluctuates slightly. No coolant in the oil. I think I caught it early enough to avoid further damage other than the head gasket itself.

Now onto the questions, firstly I am going with a composite gasket as I will not be touching the block. I understand there is debate on what gasket is best I was looking for a Toyota gasket or ajusa gasket but I can't find either one. Does anyone know where I can find one or will I be okay with using a felpro or beck/Armey gasket?
Second I will be using ARP head studs. Do I install the studs before the head or put the studs in then install the gasket and head? Also what are the procedures and torque specs on them?
Third I will be adding a downpipe while I'm in there(I was going to do a header as well but I read the stock manifold outflows the turbo) I found one on eBay that has the turbo elbow built in. Will this cause problems or make it harder to remove and install the turbo? Would I be better off getting an elbow and downpipe separate?

I will also be adding a boost controller and turbo timer, cleaning up the engine bay, gasket match intake and exhaust, and installing a timing belt kit. This will be a build thread once I start tearing into the car.

 

[Backlash2032]

For the gasket, go to a Toyota dealer. I've never heard ajusa, and I wouldn't hesitate on a felpro gasket. I believe if you're doing in car you install the studs after putting the head on the block. I wanna say it would hit the firewall if you didn't.

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[Mr--Peanut]

I was looking into this last night so I'll offer up what I found. You will need to align the head on the block without the studs. Then, the washers need to be put in place. Now the studs can be inserted.
You will need a 14mm 12-point deep socket. It needs to be thin enough to clear everything, Craftsman apparently works fine. If there is interference with the cams, rotating them will solve this.

 

[Scooter7M]

Don't torque the studs. Handtight only. Apply the moly lube to the top threads and torque the nuts per factory direction in 3 series. Meaning start in the center and work your way out in a circle pattern. 30ftlbs, 60 ftlbs, and 80ftlbs. The final torque has been argued many times, ranging between 70-90ftlbs.

 

[gloops]

I am just about to get my '88 done picked up ARP studs (203-4202) and their literature says torque to 90lbs in 3 steps. Studs were C$135 plus tax at Mopac Auto Supply in Langley, BC. Was amazed to find them locally.

 

[757_supra]

Studs at 90 pounds on a composite hg? Why? What are your hp goals?

 

[757_supra]

I was looking into this last night so I'll offer up what I found. You will need to align the head on the block without the studs. Then, the washers need to be put in place. Now the studs can be inserted.
You will need a 14mm 12-point deep socket. It needs to be thin enough to clear everything, Craftsman apparently works fine. If there is interference with the cams, rotating them will solve this.

This. And OP, you did make sure coolant didn't mix with the oil, right? And the engine never ran hot, right?

 

[mustangmatt98]

This. And OP, you did make sure coolant didn't mix with the oil, right? And the engine never ran hot, right?

The car did run hot but it was a week before these symptoms came about. Probably is the reason for the blown gasket. The oil on the stick wasn't milky but the oil cap was very milky. I think the heat of running made the coolant evaporate. The oil was never overfull. In any case I drained the oil and coolant and left the drain plugs out until I can start on her, its sitting in the garage.

As for the head studs, I'm going composite because I don't have the money to pull the motor and have the block decked. The head will be going to the local engine builder when it comes off. I plan on turning up the boost and maybe changing the intercooler later I don't have plans for big horse power numbers its not a racecar just a fun car for around town. Is it a waste to use the head studs with a composite gasket? If it will be safe to turn the boost up and not blow the head gasket again I would go with that.

 

[super51fan]

IMO I would limit boost to 10 psi with factory turbo for OEM gasket. The factory head bolts are fine if torqued to 75 ft lbs.

 

[mustangmatt98]

update, parts ordered. Got complete gasket kit, timing belt, tensioner, water pump, cam seals, arp head studs, 3in downpipe, turbo timer, and boost controller. I'm going to wait to turn the boost up for 500 miles to make sure everything is okay. I'm going to start tearing into it after christmas, have a lot of stuff going on between now and then. I'm also going to gasket match the ports and lap the valve after I have it decked.

At this time I feel like I should share a little about me. I'm 22, I work for the local county here in GA on the fleet vehicles(sheriff's dept. cars, vehicles for the maintenance/roads and bridges/tax commissioners) I'm the tire and lube tech currently but I'm learning and working my way up I started as the parts runner when I was 19. since I was young I've been interested in cars in high school I took automotive for 3 years. I am pretty confident in my abilities I'm just a new mechanic starting out and I take every opportunity to learn. I didn't want to go to college after high school I believe in this field there is no replacement for on the job experience.

my very first car ever my parents bought for me right before I went into high school, it was a 87 n/a Supra. I worked on that car everyday put a new radiator in it, new brakes, new radio, new tires all on my own working as a dish washer. My dad's company had an opportunity for him to move from New Jersey down here to Georgia and there was a very good chance he would be promoted within a year which worked out in our favor. Unfortunately the Supra had a blown head gasket and couldn't come with us. He sold the car for a loss and kept the money for it. I've held that over his head for years, I really liked that car and wanted to keep it badly.



Now my first love is mustangs, since I was able to understand what a mustang was I wanted one. My dad told me when we got to Georgia he would get me a mustang to replace the Supra. It took a few years but he held his promise and bought me a 1970 Mustang for graduation. The car came with a motor, but it looked like it had been sitting in a field for a few years. I built a 302 V-8 myself(the bottom end was good so all I really did was re-gasket it, new cam lifters and had the heads completely gone through). Got the car running only to find out the transmission wouldn't hold park. So got a transmission from the junkyard and re-built it with the help of my girlfriends father. Now the car runs and drives and it seems like it puts me back in the seat more than the brand new Chargers I service at work. I'm estimating 300 hp at the crank.

I don't quite remember but I think this is before the motor when in.



nothing too special about my 1998 Mustang, just that I bought it one month almost to the day after I got the 1970. Just has a short throw shifter, off road x-pipe and mufflers. I drive this daily.



My truck is a 2001 F-250 diesel, I traded my 03 Sport Trac in for it and never looked back. If I didn't have this truck I wouldn't have the Supra. at one point or another my truck has pulled all 3 of my cars.

towing home the Supra, I disconnected the drive shaft after I drove it up on there. It was a 2 hour ride home in the dark, word of advice don't tow a black car at night...can't see it.

towing home my '98 from work, broke a tie rod end. there's some of the cars I service in the background.

my personal truck and the truck I use at work, the dually is v10 2wd and my truck gets better gas mileage.

last but not least after some fun in a mud hole.

 

[757_supra]

As for the head studs, I'm going composite because I don't have the money to pull the motor and have the block decked. Is it a waste to use the head studs with a composite gasket? If it will be safe to turn the boost up and not blow the head gasket again I would go with that.

Ppl say you'll be safe with new factory head bolts. I say go with ARP head bolts for extra safety (make sure the block threads are clean and dry before clamping the head). Going with the head studs is away overkill, and their torque specs could squish your composite hg too much and predispose it to fail. Good luck.