7Mboost;1281378 said:
nah maybe he was a bad driver then, but no he didnt half ass anything,
he now has a built 2j, t78 in a lexus sc400, 5spd, running 11.4 on drag radials only on the wastegate
$150 bet for me to run 13.5, need advice
- Thread starter queenskid926
- Start date
nah maybe he was a bad driver then, but no he didnt half ass anything,
he now has a built 2j, t78 in a lexus sc400, 5spd, running 11.4 on drag radials only on the wastegate
suprafanatic;1281402 said:
my only concern with that is drag radials and im still on the w58, i kno i kno i kno, i need to get an r154, this summer
Technicaly your car can run a 13.5... But can the driver run a 13.5 
I remember going to the drag strip and watching a near 700hp MK4 consistantly run 14s high 13s... obviously his car was capable of running in the 10s, but the driver himself was not... On the other hand i'v seen near stock MK3's run some increadible times on the strip because of the driver. I still think since you are new to the strip one of the best things you can do to help yourself out is get some sticky tires
I remember going to the drag strip and watching a near 700hp MK4 consistantly run 14s high 13s... obviously his car was capable of running in the 10s, but the driver himself was not... On the other hand i'v seen near stock MK3's run some increadible times on the strip because of the driver. I still think since you are new to the strip one of the best things you can do to help yourself out is get some sticky tires
queenskid926;1281416 said:
I know him from SF, he said he went through something like five 7M's and that's why he went JZ, by then he may have finally got it right, a properly built 7M won't "blow up", even if it comes down to poor machine work that's builder's error, imo.
suprafanatic;1281793 said:
yea the 1rst 7ms just blew up because they were stock, then last 2 where due to machine shop error, they didnt bore the block correct, it wasnt the same bore all the way down the cylinder walls, it actually got smaller, and he would assemble the motor, start it up, it would run for 5 or 10 minutes then 5 out of the 6 pistons would break. he took it back to the machine shop that did the work and they kept accusing him of running a big shot of nitrous to break the pistons, this happens again and then he took it to a diff machine shop and they told him wat the problem was, but by then he was fed up and just went 2j lol
lol, stupid machine shop gezz.. but ya there is nothing wrong with a properly built 7M, I absolutly love mine. Dont think i'll ever go with the 2J swap in my mk3.
Recirculate your blow off valve so as to provent any stumbling or misfiring from the rich condition between shifts... most ECU's are finicky about that and don't run very well without the recirculated BOV. I've heard of a few that don't have any problem at all, but those are rare.
He should have checked the machine shop's work, so yeah, I'd say he screwed up as well
I didn't cut 7MBoost any slack when I told him that the machine shop put the wrong bearings in his bottom end, did I?
In the end, it is YOUR car, and YOUR responsibility. I get really tired of people pawning responsibility off unnecessarily on others. :3d_frown:
OP - Strip all the weight you can off the car. Seats + front bumper support will shed almost 150lbs.
I didn't cut 7MBoost any slack when I told him that the machine shop put the wrong bearings in his bottom end, did I?
In the end, it is YOUR car, and YOUR responsibility. I get really tired of people pawning responsibility off unnecessarily on others. :3d_frown:
OP - Strip all the weight you can off the car. Seats + front bumper support will shed almost 150lbs.
Good insurance would be to get ahold of a Performance Box or even a Gtech and see what kind of times you putting out.
And I'm gonna take responsibility for putting the wrong size bearings in my car because I really should've researched more and blueprinted my engine.
And I'm gonna take responsibility for putting the wrong size bearings in my car because I really should've researched more and blueprinted my engine.
Im fairly certain you will hit 13.5's no problem.. I ran a 14.2 with a full weight 5 speed on 245 falken 912's, stock ct26 at 9lbs.
No weight reduction, half tank of gas and my clutch was slipping bad thru 1st gear. Car weighed a tick under 3800lbs with me in it that time.
No weight reduction, half tank of gas and my clutch was slipping bad thru 1st gear. Car weighed a tick under 3800lbs with me in it that time.
The only problem I see that you'll have is keeping that wheel spin under control. I know I had that problem back in the day with the 4.3 diff. 1st and 2nd gear was a spinning smoke fest! Although it was cool, it certainly didn't help my times. :cry:
Way back in the day I could barely beat a stock 5spd '94 Honda Accord 2 door with all that wheel spin. Haha, but I believe most of it was also due to my lack of skill.
Way back in the day I could barely beat a stock 5spd '94 Honda Accord 2 door with all that wheel spin. Haha, but I believe most of it was also due to my lack of skill.
LordLo;1285351 said:
ive now change to some 265 tires in the rear, wheel spin in 2nd shouldnt happen, well i hope not lol
265's are a fairly good size, however, the biggest factor in traction is the compound of the tire, not neccesarily the width of the tire. for example, you could have drag radials that are 205's but they can still hook better than street tires that are 285's.
suprafanatic;1285818 said:
ok well i have no one to borrow offcial drag radials off of, The only person that i could, he has mt et drag radial on 2j twin turbo rims is the guy im making the bet with lol. So my options for tires are either:
17" mustang cobra rims with 245/45/17 nitto 555 extreme street radial
18" a little bit heavier rim with 265/35/18 Pirelli PZero Rosso N4.
So the 18's have wider rubber, but i kno that come with the price of them being heavier.
Dam its April 1rst now, 24 more days to go.
I hook a 245 kumho on the street from a 4200rpm launch. BPU 1jz. Its all in the fade of the clutch. You DO NOT want to just drop it. Smelling a little clutch at the end of a run is not always a bad thing.
Radials, drop the pressure, don't do the world's biggest burnout just get em' hot, and I'd say dump it at 4k for the first pass and it SHOULD hook (I wouldn't recommend this on ST obviously), just hope your drivetrain is all in check, should be good for one 13.5 run.