14' Battery Cable

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dbsupra90

toonar
Apr 1, 2005
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indiucky
figgie said:
SCCA?

Taking your post at face value, I did not see that you installed a remote battery disconncet accesible from the outside.

That is required in

SCCA
IHRA
NHRA
FIA
WRC

and most local race tracks. Installing a battery discoonect per the rules is no small feat.
Click to expand...

it is also required to be mounted with specific size hardware and have a vent tube.

as far as the battery disconnect, the easiest to use is the moroso super duty p/n 74102. it is rated at 300A, 2KA surge. the best part about it is has an alternator supply cut. that means you can run a small 12g wire to the alternator instead of having to run 2 huge power cables.
 
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drjonez

Supramania Contributor
Mar 31, 2005
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the motor city
www.4cefed.com
figgie said:
SCCA?

Taking your post at face value, I did not see that you installed a remote battery disconncet accesible from the outside.

That is required in

SCCA
IHRA
NHRA
FIA
WRC

and most local race tracks. Installing a battery discoonect per the rules is no small feat.
Click to expand...

exactly.
 
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Wiisass

Supramania Contributor
Apr 24, 2005
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Philly
www.theoryinpracticeengineering.com
In some of the cars I have moved the battery, I did put in a master switch. For a lot of the stuff that I do and a lot of other classes a remote master switch is recommended and not required.

But even when it is, it's not that hard to wire it in. I mean it's just a switch, but with bigger wires.

So it is mounting that's hard? This specific size hardware? I guess if you're using a battery that needs a box, it adds some work to it. But if you pick the right battery and it doesn't need to be in a box, it's pretty simple.

Edit: And based on the work that I've seen some of you do, I really don't understand how you can call this complicated.
 
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drjonez

Supramania Contributor
Mar 31, 2005
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www.4cefed.com
eh, this one isn't worth my time. suffice to say that to be legal for MOST racing you'll do (90% of those considering a relo would probably be for drag racing...so see NHRA rules), it's much more than just slapping an optima in the trunk. when i say "complicated" i'm referring to the average reader here....
 
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Wiisass

Supramania Contributor
Apr 24, 2005
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Philly
www.theoryinpracticeengineering.com
Dr.J, I'm not trying to start any arguments, I was just curious as to what was so complicated about it.

And 90% of racing is drag racing? Well maybe that's where the different outlook comes from, I'm not a drag racer or have anything to do with it for the most part. I will build customer cars for drag racing if they want to, but other than that, I don't personally drag race so I'm not as familiar with the rules. But for the most part, if you follow general good practice guidelines for doing something like this, it's a lot easier than most people think. Also, I would think that a large percentage of people moving their battery aren't doing any kind of racing.
 
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IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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Wiisass said:
www.mcmaster.com

You want welding cable, 2 gauge should be fine. And you can get any ends or fittings on there. Welding cable is nice because it's very flexible. I've used it on a bunch of cars right and never had any problems with it as long as you use good ends for it.
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Need to make sure it's Copper Multistrand though as there's a LOT of cheap aluminium welding cable around :(

I use 1/2" Copper here and run 2 cables all the way to the motor, we've discussed running the ground through the chassis a few times and why I don't like to do it this way from an electrical PoV but I'm sure many will disagree so I will just sit here quietly ;)
 
shaeff

shaeff

Kurt is FTMFW x2!!!!
Staff member
Super Moderator
Mar 30, 2005
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i plan on picking up welding cable and running a ground right to the block. i wouldn't do it any other way, nor could i imagine someone trusting the chassis as a ground.
 
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dbsupra90

toonar
Apr 1, 2005
2,374
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indiucky
IJ. said:
run 2 cables all the way to the motor, we've discussed running the ground through the chassis a few times and why I don't like to do it this way from an electrical PoV but I'm sure many will disagree so I will just sit here quietly ;)
Click to expand...

i agree, and its how my car is done as well. ive never been a fan of grounding it to the chassis in the rear. using a convential cut off switch could you imagine running 3 garden hose sized lines under the car? thats why i mention the switch i did. ive seen many ways of doing a battery relocate on here. they all work, just some are safer than others, and few would pass tech inspection.

and for the record, everything that is done to my car is with the rules enforced at the drag tracks i go to. so when i talked about the box, hardware, vent tube, etc that was in regards to drag racing rules.
 
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figgie

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
5,225
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IJ. said:
Need to make sure it's Copper Multistrand though as there's a LOT of cheap aluminium welding cable around :(

I use 1/2" Copper here and run 2 cables all the way to the motor, we've discussed running the ground through the chassis a few times and why I don't like to do it this way from an electrical PoV but I'm sure many will disagree so I will just sit here quietly ;)
Click to expand...

well here is where the Audio world comes in extremly handy ;)

1-1 guage or 0 Guage wire input to 4-4 guage outputs. That way only one wire and then distrubute from there :)

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/2087458/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046
also is clean ;)
 
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