Van;1987143 said:
That's the same aero lotus used in the 70s in f1. I been thinking of doing that on one of my supras one day as well
1300 Kg Track SUPRA project
- Thread starter josbeat
- Start date
That's the same aero lotus used in the 70s in f1. I been thinking of doing that on one of my supras one day as well
Hi Josbeat,
Please describe where on the car is the "the wishbone adjustment hole" that helped solve the problem of negative camber adjustment? Thanks
Please describe where on the car is the "the wishbone adjustment hole" that helped solve the problem of negative camber adjustment? Thanks
josbeat;2000627 said:
Van after replacing the balljoint the camber was too large so to correct it the standar adjusters on the supra wasnt suficient to reduce it so with the help of a air tool I made the elliptical holes biggers to get more adjustment to reduce the negative camber.
so if you look the last photos of my supra in Nurburgring you can see the minimun camber I can get . that is the minimun. I think is -3,5º or -4º , I need to check it well because the tool i have is not acurate.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FA&P=4
so if you look the last photos of my supra in Nurburgring you can see the minimun camber I can get . that is the minimun. I think is -3,5º or -4º , I need to check it well because the tool i have is not acurate.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FA&P=4
Van I found where to get out 60 or 65 kgr from my car .
also I been on a track last weeked and now the supra is neutral chassis , not under not over, really nice.
it looks like the front camber is maybe half degree more thant it needs and at the back needs another half more, looking the tyres after all day running is what i will try next time.
wehre to reduce the weight is:
front brakes in carbon-ceramic -15 or -20 kg
door panels -5 kg
policarbonate glasses -15 kg
no windows regulators -5 kg
no heater box completelly included the blower -5 kg
replace the front lights with a fixed light kit I have -4 kg
new clutch quarter master 5,5 triple disc -5 kg
and removing the sliders from the seat -6kg
total? dont know exactly but a lot
offcourse I will ad few more because maybe I will put another reinforcement on the roll cage and maybe a seat coolers...
another 5 kg will be to remove the electric power steering pump but .... maybe wil be better to move it to the midlle of the car or maybe at the back in the trunk.
also with the water-methanol we can reduce the size of the intercooler and with the 2jz I have the coolant radiator from 3 rows to 2 rows will be another 3 or 4 kg less.
I need to know what do you think.
also I been on a track last weeked and now the supra is neutral chassis , not under not over, really nice.
it looks like the front camber is maybe half degree more thant it needs and at the back needs another half more, looking the tyres after all day running is what i will try next time.
wehre to reduce the weight is:
front brakes in carbon-ceramic -15 or -20 kg
door panels -5 kg
policarbonate glasses -15 kg
no windows regulators -5 kg
no heater box completelly included the blower -5 kg
replace the front lights with a fixed light kit I have -4 kg
new clutch quarter master 5,5 triple disc -5 kg
and removing the sliders from the seat -6kg
total? dont know exactly but a lot
offcourse I will ad few more because maybe I will put another reinforcement on the roll cage and maybe a seat coolers...
another 5 kg will be to remove the electric power steering pump but .... maybe wil be better to move it to the midlle of the car or maybe at the back in the trunk.
also with the water-methanol we can reduce the size of the intercooler and with the 2jz I have the coolant radiator from 3 rows to 2 rows will be another 3 or 4 kg less.
I need to know what do you think.
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These are also on my list of improvements, excluding the front lights. I've prioritized my improvements for a new lighter clutch and brakes, then start doing all the rest of the improvements as time permits. You'll notice a lot less roll and pitch after relieving all the glass weight from up top of the car. I notice it right away. I didn't have to replace springs or sway bars as I had planned.
The big weight loss you made to the car was going to the carbon doors, no?
I also like your solution to the problem of a flat bottom on our cars... Brilliant!
The big weight loss you made to the car was going to the carbon doors, no?
I also like your solution to the problem of a flat bottom on our cars... Brilliant!
Van the flat botton is night and day but also with the front splitter is one the best thing i did .
I will post you the heights of the car front and back because for the firts time last time in the track the supra was totally neutral!! and lot of guys talking about how well the supra goes
I will post you the heights of the car front and back because for the firts time last time in the track the supra was totally neutral!! and lot of guys talking about how well the supra goes
Attachments
Buy polycarbonate plastic with a scratch resistance. Use the hot air gun to mold in to shape, cut to size and apply window adhesive to seal and then fasten it to the frame. Several hour job. I had to use blow-out bars, as required over here with polycarbonate windows on the rear hatch...
Brand name on those brakes, please!
josbeat;2055738 said:27 kg lower with some new bits
new manifold 5 kg lightter
new ceramic brakes 15 kg less
new Tilton Clutch 7 kg less
also more CASTER at the front moving the lower balljoint
some more weight saving coming
the brand of the rotors are wilwood but the rest is a PB-brakes kit I have before , the callipers and floating hats.
the hats are not exactly exactly the right ones but I think they will work, the hats I bought from wilwood arent correct so I will try with the ones I have .
I am waiting to see if wilwood want to make a custom Hats for the Supra but ofcourse it will be posible if some more people want to buy it, some companys can do it like Portelfield brakes.
the price is high , i bought the rotors from Summitracing at better price but still at 2000 USD each.
they are the sheapest ceramic rotors I found .
the pads I bought is the Pagid rsc1 compound , another 300 EUR the front set for a AP-Racing callipers.
also I will use a Ti heat shield plates I am using now.
that is the ultimate brake kit for racing and street with out dusting at all, with out cold or hot braking problems and with out brake noise, AMEN of the weight reduction and life wear but not cheap.
the callipers have a radial mount with a very strong well made adapter, the parts can be buy from PB-Brakes separately
we can see like the hat is not perfect but like is floating it can be used.
the hats are not exactly exactly the right ones but I think they will work, the hats I bought from wilwood arent correct so I will try with the ones I have .
I am waiting to see if wilwood want to make a custom Hats for the Supra but ofcourse it will be posible if some more people want to buy it, some companys can do it like Portelfield brakes.
the price is high , i bought the rotors from Summitracing at better price but still at 2000 USD each.
they are the sheapest ceramic rotors I found .
the pads I bought is the Pagid rsc1 compound , another 300 EUR the front set for a AP-Racing callipers.
also I will use a Ti heat shield plates I am using now.
that is the ultimate brake kit for racing and street with out dusting at all, with out cold or hot braking problems and with out brake noise, AMEN of the weight reduction and life wear but not cheap.
the callipers have a radial mount with a very strong well made adapter, the parts can be buy from PB-Brakes separately
we can see like the hat is not perfect but like is floating it can be used.
their 5.5" double would work me and it's so light but also costs about what my whole engine build did.josbeat;2056596 said:
josbeat;2045277 said:
paper??? how did that get in there? :O
Really liking the C/SiC brake setup you got there
any idea what they were temperature rated at?my friend put a pieces of paper blocking all holes from the dirty come inside and forget one.... is the life .
the ceramic disc no need any temp to work , there are lineal from cold cold to the red with less pedal efforth which is perfect for me because Im not using a brakebooster.
is a good idea to have a brake cooling system but is the calliper what must be cooled well.
I will report how it work and temperatures ectr as soon as i can test it on the track.
the ceramic disc no need any temp to work , there are lineal from cold cold to the red with less pedal efforth which is perfect for me because Im not using a brakebooster.
is a good idea to have a brake cooling system but is the calliper what must be cooled well.
I will report how it work and temperatures ectr as soon as i can test it on the track.
