100ft lbs
- Thread starter JDM 1JZ
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Hmm, I didn't know about the cycling deal. I only thought you were suppost the torque down to a certain amount first for all bolts, then torque down tighter again for all, then do the final torquing.
You are indeed the man John!
Ninja edit: So do you just back off a stud/bolt like 1/4 to 1/2 a turn then torque to the next value?
You are indeed the man John!
Ninja edit: So do you just back off a stud/bolt like 1/4 to 1/2 a turn then torque to the next value?
Awwh thanks guys!
I see a lot of problems pop up on this site and I question why it's done this way or that way, so I try to figure it out I have mechanical engineering from long ago in my background and been a gear head since I was a teenager. Since cars are getting so blasted complicated, gotta do something to keep up!
You actually go through the entire TSRM torque sequence to spec...I like to use 15 ft/lb increments (but that's technique). Then you back all the bolts/studs off and do it again. I did mine 3 times...then I did a re-torque after the motor went through 5-6 heat cycles...again, technique.
I see a lot of problems pop up on this site and I question why it's done this way or that way, so I try to figure it out
I have mechanical engineering from long ago in my background and been a gear head since I was a teenager. Since cars are getting so blasted complicated, gotta do something to keep up!starscream5000 said:
You actually go through the entire TSRM torque sequence to spec...I like to use 15 ft/lb increments (but that's technique). Then you back all the bolts/studs off and do it again. I did mine 3 times...then I did a re-torque after the motor went through 5-6 heat cycles...again, technique.
so do, lets say 15ft lb - 20ft lb incraments and you get to 81 or whatever you desire, and go thorugh the loosen sequence, and start over and then start over and then done, then 5-6 heat cycles(which i knew) and check?
One other thing...don't forget to apply RTV to the top of the aluminum front plate. The precise location is in the TRSM. This has nothing to do with the HG seal, but everything to do with preventing a nasty oil leak down the front of your motor
kk will do, hopefully it holds up like my last, my last was on 21lbs on a t4 beating on it for 2 years and some time.... dun dun dun, my other motors almost ready to go in anyway, fully machined and mhg ready, i'll probley put it in when this ones completely done
You can buy a tube of ARP moly assembly lube at horsepowerfreaks.com.
ARP 100-9903 ARP, Engine Miscellaneous Assembly Moly Lube 1.69 Oz
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/sale////searchpart/100-9903
ARP 100-9903 ARP, Engine Miscellaneous Assembly Moly Lube 1.69 Oz
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/sale////searchpart/100-9903
jdub said:Awwh thanks guys!
I see a lot of problems pop up on this site and I question why it's done this way or that way, so I try to figure it out
You actually go through the entire TSRM torque sequence to spec...I like to use 15 ft/lb increments (but that's technique). Then you back all the bolts/studs off and do it again. I did mine 3 times...then I did a re-torque after the motor went through 5-6 heat cycles...again, technique.
Ahhh, I see the light of your reasoning now. I will use this "dub-nique" when I perform the task of rebuilding the supra
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^Lol, they probably thought you were needing some KY jelly or something.
BTW: did you get a big can of (moly I'm guessing?) lube, or the smaller tube? How much did ARP charge you?
BTW: did you get a big can of (moly I'm guessing?) lube, or the smaller tube? How much did ARP charge you?
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