A fellow member ask me to do a write up on a 1000 hp 7mgte build and to post it here so that he may get thoughts on the subject from other members who are deep into the pockets of a 7m build. Fee free to post away about the pit falls of a 4 digit hp motor. Keep in mind that this will be an intermitent use 1000 hp, not a full blown 1000 hp used every moment motor.
1 - Best to start with a new short block from toyota. Straighten and refinish the new crank to desired oil clearence after a 60 hr nitride treatment. If a used block - flux for cracks, align bore and square the deck. Straighten the used crank, regrind, nitride, then polish to desired oil clearence.
2 - Install billet main caps, aline bore the mains square to the deck with arp hardware. Debur the oil drain paths. Now would be the time to lap the block, clean, then install all new freeze plugs, oil shaft bearings.
3 - I would at the very least use pauter rods, custom CP pistons with the .200 wall pins and coat the bearings. Balance the rotating assembly with the damper and flywheel/flexplate.
4 - Normally I would use a dry sump oil system for 1000 hp with a main cap girdle, .0035 oil clearence with 75 psi of oil. If you plan on using the wet sump style, then use a new toyota pump and the girdle can not be used, as it will not clear the pump.
5 - Best to start with a new head from toyota. Debur and clean. You will need a set of billet cams in the 10.5 to 11 mm range. For this, you will need to grind clearence in the head for the lobes to swing. You will also need solid lifters with the shims under the bucket. I would even go as far to over size the lifters to accomidate the cam lobe. This will require the lifter bores to be bored out and rehoned. You will need an aggresive porting job done on the entire head to provide the air flow for 1000 hp. 275 to 295 range I would say. You would want a ferrera oversize valve set up with the dual springs. Before you install any hardware, and are finished the porting and machining of the head, you would want to lap the head then clean it. Use arp studs to clamp the cam caps down.
6 - I would use an HKS stopper headgasket, you will need a good cam belt, cam gears, and a 7 to 8 inch damper which will have to be custom made. I would go as far to say install pick ups in the damper for a crank fire trigger.
7 - You will need a REAL exhaust manifold, not a e-bay one. it will have to be a forward style to clear the shock tower and be turned slightly. This will be a custom unit. You will need a GT45r turbo at the least and a 4 inch downpipe, 4 inch exhaust, and 50mm wastgate. A short runner intake manifold with a 90mm throttle body, intercooler piping in the 3.5inch range and at least a greddy 4 row intercooler from a mk4. dual hks BOVs.
8 - You will need triple walbro fuel pumps, twin aeromotives, or one large weldon fuel pump, 1200cc injectors, custom fuel rail, the large weldon or aeromotive fuel regulator. At the least you will want a AEM EMS or opt for the Motec.
You are now into the 15,000.00+ range without cooling, or a drivetrain.
1 - Best to start with a new short block from toyota. Straighten and refinish the new crank to desired oil clearence after a 60 hr nitride treatment. If a used block - flux for cracks, align bore and square the deck. Straighten the used crank, regrind, nitride, then polish to desired oil clearence.
2 - Install billet main caps, aline bore the mains square to the deck with arp hardware. Debur the oil drain paths. Now would be the time to lap the block, clean, then install all new freeze plugs, oil shaft bearings.
3 - I would at the very least use pauter rods, custom CP pistons with the .200 wall pins and coat the bearings. Balance the rotating assembly with the damper and flywheel/flexplate.
4 - Normally I would use a dry sump oil system for 1000 hp with a main cap girdle, .0035 oil clearence with 75 psi of oil. If you plan on using the wet sump style, then use a new toyota pump and the girdle can not be used, as it will not clear the pump.
5 - Best to start with a new head from toyota. Debur and clean. You will need a set of billet cams in the 10.5 to 11 mm range. For this, you will need to grind clearence in the head for the lobes to swing. You will also need solid lifters with the shims under the bucket. I would even go as far to over size the lifters to accomidate the cam lobe. This will require the lifter bores to be bored out and rehoned. You will need an aggresive porting job done on the entire head to provide the air flow for 1000 hp. 275 to 295 range I would say. You would want a ferrera oversize valve set up with the dual springs. Before you install any hardware, and are finished the porting and machining of the head, you would want to lap the head then clean it. Use arp studs to clamp the cam caps down.
6 - I would use an HKS stopper headgasket, you will need a good cam belt, cam gears, and a 7 to 8 inch damper which will have to be custom made. I would go as far to say install pick ups in the damper for a crank fire trigger.
7 - You will need a REAL exhaust manifold, not a e-bay one. it will have to be a forward style to clear the shock tower and be turned slightly. This will be a custom unit. You will need a GT45r turbo at the least and a 4 inch downpipe, 4 inch exhaust, and 50mm wastgate. A short runner intake manifold with a 90mm throttle body, intercooler piping in the 3.5inch range and at least a greddy 4 row intercooler from a mk4. dual hks BOVs.
8 - You will need triple walbro fuel pumps, twin aeromotives, or one large weldon fuel pump, 1200cc injectors, custom fuel rail, the large weldon or aeromotive fuel regulator. At the least you will want a AEM EMS or opt for the Motec.
You are now into the 15,000.00+ range without cooling, or a drivetrain.
