Yes in stock form the 2j will hold a lot more power but the point I was trying to make is the money you will spend on a 2j swap would be better spent on rebuilding your 7m vs a 2j that you don't know nothing about the condition of the engine.
$10,000 TO SPEND on a 91 MKIII
- Thread starter SupraSamm
- Start date
Back on topic, I know you want to dump money into the engine first, don't. Going fast means you'll need to stop fast. A 500 HP engine should have 500HP brakes, suspension, tires, safety equipment, etc. I would seriously consider spending your money on those before the engine.
-AM3
-AM3
Wow. Great input guys. Im learning alot. Yes atm its completly stock turbo. When or if I do blow the engine maybe Ill consider a j series engine, but for now I really want to build 7MGTE. Thats why I dont mind putting the 1st 10k into just engine alone. I did mention Fast but Reliable is what Im going after.
SupraSamm;2008205 said:
Gonna put 10k into a motor that you are already anticipating blowing up? thats makes soooo much sense.
To build the 7M you will Need to pull it out of the car...why not just do a swap at that point?
SupraSamm;2008206 said:
Lies...your gonna drop 10k on the motor...and many months...and when its done you arent going to drive it until you save and drop another 10k into the brakes and suspension...
I'll start taking bets now on that one
@ DeMon2318
LoL. This is what happens when you ASSume things. I had stated "IF i blow the motor". They're is always an IF to any motor, wouldnt you agree.
Also how do you know that 10k is all the money I got? And if this is a hobby car or my only means of transportation.
Trust me bro. I will not be trying to push 500hp if this was my only ride. I got 3 other rides that I can use as my daily drivers. The SUPRA is simply for the fun factor bro.
LoL. This is what happens when you ASSume things. I had stated "IF i blow the motor". They're is always an IF to any motor, wouldnt you agree.
Also how do you know that 10k is all the money I got? And if this is a hobby car or my only means of transportation.
Trust me bro. I will not be trying to push 500hp if this was my only ride. I got 3 other rides that I can use as my daily drivers. The SUPRA is simply for the fun factor bro.
I created this thread simply to get peoples intake on how they would build a 7mgte with 10k in hand. I didn want to start a 7 vs J debate. I know that J motors are for sure kick a55 motors. We all know that they are till this day one of the best built all around. But I just personally for this build wanna keep the 7.
So thanks all and keep the ideas coming.
So thanks all and keep the ideas coming.
What piston and rod combo do you plan on running? I plan on starting my '90 7mgte build in the next couple of weeks. Picking up parts here and there. Might go with eagle rods and cp or je pistons Bought a 7mge head, but was thinking of putting my stock turbo cams in that one. Heard the NA cams are a bit of an upgrade but couldn't find much info on that. Also picked up a Greddy e-manage ultimate piggyback from another mk3 owner who was dyno'ed at 615hp. He had a 2j swap though. It was at a fair price so had to get it. I plan on getting there with my 7mgte. Not sure of the turbo yet. Many options. My stock one seems fine as far as shaft play goes. Good luck with the build man. We're bringing the 7m's back....
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If I had to do it all over again I wouldve gone 1JZ VVTi.
However with the insistence of my father to rebuild the engine, plus it was fun working and rebuilding the engine with him yknow father and son bonding. In any case I spent on my block and head and this includes parts and machining roughly $4200 to make it a complete rebuilt long block. This was just to get it back to the way it was before we swapped it out. When I sat down with a friend who does wiring for swaps we found that I wouldve saved close to $200 swapping a 1JZ VVTi in. So there you have it hindsight is 20/20 or maybe 20/15 in this case. However I dont regret having a rebuilt 7M and I will admit its odd not having to pop the hood to work on it like I used too. In either case I support a swap, but I would also focus on the suspension and brakes first and foremost.
However with the insistence of my father to rebuild the engine, plus it was fun working and rebuilding the engine with him yknow father and son bonding. In any case I spent on my block and head and this includes parts and machining roughly $4200 to make it a complete rebuilt long block. This was just to get it back to the way it was before we swapped it out. When I sat down with a friend who does wiring for swaps we found that I wouldve saved close to $200 swapping a 1JZ VVTi in. So there you have it hindsight is 20/20 or maybe 20/15 in this case. However I dont regret having a rebuilt 7M and I will admit its odd not having to pop the hood to work on it like I used too. In either case I support a swap, but I would also focus on the suspension and brakes first and foremost.
[QUOTE='90mk3;2008228]What piston and rod combo do you plan on running? I plan on starting my '90 7mgte build in the next couple of weeks. Picking up parts here and there. Might go with eagle rods and cp or je pistons Bought a 7mge head, but was thinking of putting my stock turbo cams in that one. Heard the NA cams are a bit of an upgrade but couldn't find much info on that. Also picked up a Greddy e-manage ultimate piggyback from another mk3 owner who was dyno'ed at 615hp. He had a 2j swap though. It was at a fair price so had to get it. I plan on getting there with my 7mgte. Not sure of the turbo yet. Many options. My stock one seems fine as far as shaft play goes. Good luck with the build man. We're bringing the 7m's back....[/QUOTE]
I hear ya bro. Theres so many options that I go round in circles going "ohhhh" and "ahhhh" all day long and still didnt make a decision on what to get. Thats why Im hoping to get somw pretty good ideas from this tread. Good luck with your build and keep me updated.
I hear ya bro. Theres so many options that I go round in circles going "ohhhh" and "ahhhh" all day long and still didnt make a decision on what to get. Thats why Im hoping to get somw pretty good ideas from this tread. Good luck with your build and keep me updated.
If you gave me those $10,000 and a stock mk3:
#1 is excellent machine work done by someone who KNOWS the little details for machining a 7M, get a full-flow-thermostatic controlled oil cooler (personally I would also have a custom oil pan done up with a new pump or at the very least Mic and spec all the clearances in the current pump, then shim it about 5mm), double check all your machinests' measurements then get yourself some good rod/main bearings, new oil pump drive shaft bearings, and a good rod/piston combo (just search these, you could spend hours deciding on what brands to go with). If you want to play with headwork and get into bigger cams at this time go for it, but personally if my cams were in good shape, id get a 3-angle valve job, some minor porting on the intake side and spend my money elsewhere.
Assembly is most important, take your time, make sure you know all your clearances both on the shortblock and the head. Get a good MHG (HKS stopper) that gives you the desired compression ratio. Go with ARP hardware and torque everything slowely, carefully, in the right order per TSRM, according to the FASTENER torque spec reccomendations. Then pick a parts list that suits your goals (see the 7M HP link below for ideas). As previously mentioned, the power is only as good as you can get it to the wheels, and will only do you good if you don't kill yourself using it. Spend the money on good clutch/brakes/suspension/tires/etc. You can run the stock R154 until it goes, but I would suggest just rebuilding it while its out and be done with it. I learned that the hard way! Then there are always those little things that might not serve as necessity performance upgrades, but you are going to want (like a front facing intake manifold, possibly better coils and ignition, etc.) Don't forget to save money for the unexpected gremlins, and cosmetic things you might want later. Also remember no matter what set up you go with that it's ALL IN THE TUNE! Invest in a good tuning tool and an even better tuner.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?66742-***SM-Member-Horsepower-List***
We could all swap in 2J's and drink the koolaid, or keep alive the 7M and show some originality!
#1 is excellent machine work done by someone who KNOWS the little details for machining a 7M, get a full-flow-thermostatic controlled oil cooler (personally I would also have a custom oil pan done up with a new pump or at the very least Mic and spec all the clearances in the current pump, then shim it about 5mm), double check all your machinests' measurements then get yourself some good rod/main bearings, new oil pump drive shaft bearings, and a good rod/piston combo (just search these, you could spend hours deciding on what brands to go with). If you want to play with headwork and get into bigger cams at this time go for it, but personally if my cams were in good shape, id get a 3-angle valve job, some minor porting on the intake side and spend my money elsewhere.
Assembly is most important, take your time, make sure you know all your clearances both on the shortblock and the head. Get a good MHG (HKS stopper) that gives you the desired compression ratio. Go with ARP hardware and torque everything slowely, carefully, in the right order per TSRM, according to the FASTENER torque spec reccomendations. Then pick a parts list that suits your goals (see the 7M HP link below for ideas). As previously mentioned, the power is only as good as you can get it to the wheels, and will only do you good if you don't kill yourself using it. Spend the money on good clutch/brakes/suspension/tires/etc. You can run the stock R154 until it goes, but I would suggest just rebuilding it while its out and be done with it. I learned that the hard way! Then there are always those little things that might not serve as necessity performance upgrades, but you are going to want (like a front facing intake manifold, possibly better coils and ignition, etc.) Don't forget to save money for the unexpected gremlins, and cosmetic things you might want later. Also remember no matter what set up you go with that it's ALL IN THE TUNE! Invest in a good tuning tool and an even better tuner.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?66742-***SM-Member-Horsepower-List***
We could all swap in 2J's and drink the koolaid, or keep alive the 7M and show some originality!
+1 to a 1jz or 2jz VVti swap. it is just a better investmnt in the long run when it comes time to sell the car and try to recoup some of your money. a MK3 with a 1/2 JZ is always going to be worth alot more than a MK3 with a 7m no matter how much coin you drop on the 7m.
SupraSamm;2008205 said:
SupraSamm;2008221 said:
You said when... just sayin
And, motors dont blow up if they are built right...
If you have more money then why arent you planning out a full build? its illogical to ONLY do a motor and then have to wait to drive it while you do the other stuff if you have the cheddar to do it all now
I said nothing about it being your only car...
Any poor assumptions were due to misleading/confusing information
I use to be in the "7M forever" club...then I saw how much cheaper, reliable, and powerful the JZ family is...So I have started saving and planning a 1J swap.
Enjoy whatever it is you choose to do. I hope you prove us wrong and we see a great build thread instead of another BHG thread from a failed 7M build.
Happy Boosting
SupraSamm;2008261 said:
Last time I checked there was no shortage of an mk3 following in Texas. I'm confident someone MUCH more knowledgeable than myself down there would take your money and help you along the way. Just don't jump in without knowing your goals and doing some planning and alot of research!That way you can avoid learning by trial and error, that's much more expensive.
Alrighty. He said he wants to keep the 7m but people keep saying jz and single.
Lets do some looking. Both engines will require a new turbo. So the cost of that between the two is null. Same with the clutch and ems along with supporting mods.
Now that is done, lets see what it'll take a 7m to get 500 and reliable. Simple, full flow thermostat controlled oil cooler and a 5mm shimmer oil pump is a good start. Go ahead pull the engine and get a mls, while the block is apart get the rods shot peened and buy some forged pistons. Now the internals will hold 500 whp just fine.
Now lets get a jz swap. Congrats, you just spent 2-3k on an old tired engine that'll need to be freshened up.
So with the above taken and my hands hurting due to typing this on an cellphone, I will take a zero mile partially built 7m over a 100k+ mile jz.
Lets do some looking. Both engines will require a new turbo. So the cost of that between the two is null. Same with the clutch and ems along with supporting mods.
Now that is done, lets see what it'll take a 7m to get 500 and reliable. Simple, full flow thermostat controlled oil cooler and a 5mm shimmer oil pump is a good start. Go ahead pull the engine and get a mls, while the block is apart get the rods shot peened and buy some forged pistons. Now the internals will hold 500 whp just fine.
Now lets get a jz swap. Congrats, you just spent 2-3k on an old tired engine that'll need to be freshened up.
So with the above taken and my hands hurting due to typing this on an cellphone, I will take a zero mile partially built 7m over a 100k+ mile jz.
Welcome, I actually have nearly everything you're needing to obtain your requested goals, and it's not 7m 
Take a look at my recently posted part out and let me know!
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?198559-Semi-built-1.5jz-Partout-(Quality-built)
Take a look at my recently posted part out and let me know!http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?198559-Semi-built-1.5jz-Partout-(Quality-built)