Ok, pretty much done with this section. I will add stuff as necessary. Comment away!
-1.5jzgte Build/Swap Basics
Note: Most of this info can be pulled from both the 1jz and 2jz swap parts lists, but I am bringing all of the other scattered pieces of information into this as well. This is to both help myself as I am nearing the engine assembly phase of my build, as well as others looking to do this swap. I know we have some users on here that have running 1.5jz's, so feel free to post up your experiences and thoughts/ideas!
As always, the author (me) may leave something out, it is up to you to know what you need for your specific application. This is a basic compendium to get the random bits to make it all work. Always use a fresh engine (clearances checked, cleaned, correct bearings) and gaskets to avoid major issues down the road. I will not tell you the basics of building a motor for performance, go read those stickies! This is just to get a 1.5jz assembled with the unusual quirks.
Toyota Part Numbers will be in red. If it isn't Toyota, I will tell you where to find it, or use Ebay/google/driftmotion/suprasport/etc...
First of all, WHAT is a 1.5jzgte?
-It is the 2jzge or 2jzgte 3.0L inline six cylinder block, with the 2.5L 1jzgte head.
For background, the 2jz engines use the same crank, rods, and blocks between the non-turbo and turbo engines. The 2jz heads ARE different between the 2jzge and 2jzgte, with the VVTi versions being on their own as well. Please note, 2jz VVTi engines use thinner/weaker rods than the non-VVTi engines, but can still withstand a decent amount of power (some see 300hp, some see 500hp) with a good tune. As in all things, there are exceptions. The 2jz rods/blocks/heads are interchangeable, as long as you have the proper pieces that are supposed to go with each (ie: VVTi cams with a VVTi head. If you don't get this, then don't attempt to mix and match!)
The 2jzge pistons are different from the 2jzgte pistons due to higher compression, but can be interchanged as long as all 6 are the same set. Some people do this to raise or lower compression based on machining clearances, head gasket sizes, and personal preferences in goals for the Compression Ratio. (Pictures coming, I have both sets.)
The 1jzgte and 2jzgte pistons are the same design (both use 8.5:1 CR's), with some clearance/size differences. I would not recommend swapping 1jzgte pistons onto 2jz rods until you have checked all sizes (wrist pins, locks, rings, etc) and determined they will work for your build (personally, I'd stick with 1jz on 1jz and 2jz on 2jz pieces. :icon_bigg).
The 1jzgte head does not affect the 3.0L displacement of the engine because the bore and stroke are the main factors in this.
The 1jzgte has a shorter stroke due to a different crank because the 1jzgte block has a shorter deck height.
*Keep in mind that 1jz/2jz blocks are basically the same, with minor differences aside from the deck height. Oil pans, pickup tubes, mounts, and brackets will swap*
DO NOT USE THE 1jzgte CRANK WITH A 2jzgte BLOCK AND VICE VERSA. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.
Yes, the 1jzgte rods are also the same as the 2jz rods (different P/N?), it's the crank that yeilds a different stroke. Although I still recommend sticking 1jz pieces with 1jz pieces as before. :icon_bigg
As mentioned earlier, there are exceptions and different approaches to this info, so make sure to further research your specific application. This is just information I have put together and cannot be held responsible if it does not work for you. Although, I DO check my sources and confirm or try to confirm everything I read, and will not post info that is false (I will say if I am unsure about something though, in which case feel free to provide info I may have missed!).
WHY would someone want to use/build a 1.5jzgte engine?
Some people like to be different. Some people have parts laying around and this is cheaper than buying a whole new engine setup. Others like the idea of a 3.0L turbo engine masquerading as a 2.5L engine. Personally, I love having people mistake me for the 2.5L. :evil2:
All in all, it is a personal preference. Why did you choose to keep the 7m? Why did you go 1jz? Everyone has their own view point and argument, go with what YOU want or like!
What are the Advantages and Disadvantages of this setup?
Some of this is personal, some of it is based on facts (see link for head flow info)
Advantages:
-A nice, clean FFIM and head setup over the 2jzge-t swap. 2jzge-t Swap List
Versus
-Finding a use for parts that you would otherwise use as a door stop
-3.0L displacement over the 2.5L displacement. This is more of a personal preference as the 2.5L 1jzgte is a very capable motor, but there is no replacement for displacement.
-The 1.5jzgte looks like a normal 2.5L 1jzgte if someone does not know which block is being used.
-The 1jz head is easier to purchase (and cheaper) than a 2jzgte head
-Most of the 1jz and 2jz sensors/electronics/parts are interchangeable (cam pos. sensors, crank pos. sensors, igniters, coolant sensors, oil level sensors, coil packs, MAP sensors [Including the JDM 2jz 1.3 Bar sensor], injectors (this will be covered later as each has it's own necessary piece for upgrading/swapping), oil pumps (2jzge from 96+ can be used as it has the provision for the crank pos. sensor [same sensor as 1jz/2jzgte]), 2jzgte/1jz t-stats and coolant pipes, etc... Basically use the 1jz and 2jz swap parts lists and the thread on how to treat a 1jz.
How to treat a 1jz. What Parts are compatible. (Look further down on first post)
2jzgte Swap List
1jzgte Swap List
Disadvantages:
-The 2jz heads (ge and gte) have been proven to flow more air than the 1jzgte head. Supra Head Flow Comparison
-This will cost a little more than a basic 2jzge-t build, but usually builds end up anywhere from $3-6,000 dollars.
HOW do I get this engine in my car, and safely refreshed?
Just like any other 1jz/2jz...
-Use the BIC swap brackets for your year (86.5-89 and 89-92) Supra to clear the cross member. Also make sure you use the square mounts for 86.5-89, and the round mounts for the 89-92 (you can also use JZA70 mounts and JZA80 mounts).
(Clarification because people like me get confused)
Bracket: Bolts to engine itself and allows for proper positioning in the bay
Mount: Sits between engine and chassis for vibration dampening (unless you get billet mounts like mine. lol)
-You will need a rear sump oil pan for Supras, a front sump will not work without major fabrication. Rear sump pans can be found with JZA70 1jz engines, JZA80 2jz engines (MKiv Supras), SC300s, and possibly a few others I cannot think of at the moment.
-Use a 1jz Bellhousing to mate the R154 transmission to the 2jz block. If you use a W58 (not recommended due to lower power tolerance), you can use a JZA80 or similar W58 2jz bellhousing.
-Use any 1jz flywheel (stock or lightweight) with a 7M/MKIII Supra clutch setup (pressure plate, PP bolts, Clutch disk, bearings, fork, etc...)
Now, for 1.5jz specific pieces:
-Use the 1jzgte or 2jzgte mechanical water pump and 2jzgte/ge water pump pulley (just buy a Driftmotion 1jz/2jz pulley kit, but use the crank pulley at your own risk. 1jz/2jz crank pulleys are identical through all years/models). You cannot use the 2jzge rear-housing because it will not connect to the pipe used by the 1jzgte head unless you fabricate something. (For clarification) The 1jz/2jz Hydro Fan water pump will only work if you use the entire hydro pump assembly. The front section of the pump will not swap between hydro's and mechanicals. (Insert picture of pumps, hydro and mechanical)
-Use a 1jz or 2jz oil pump. As mentioned previously, the 1996 and up 2jzge pump has the necessary provisions for the crank position sensor. You may also want to get the 1jz/2jzgte crank timing gear as well with this because the '96+ 2jzge crank gear has different teeth and will not read properly unless you use an aftermarket ECU setup.
P/N for the GTE 12-point timing gear: 13052-46010
While you're at it, replace the crank keys as well, Toyota P/N: 9028-05005 X 2 ($2 each IIRC)
And maybe the crank pulley bolt too, P/N: 90119-18002 (includes large washer) ($5)
-Use the 2jz timing belt and pieces, it will work with the taller deck height of the 2jz block, and has no issues with the 1jz cam gears/head. Pieces needed: 2jz timing belt (ge or GTE), hydraulic tensioner, and tensioner pulleys.
If you've lost your timing belt guide like me, here's the P/N: 13566-46010 ($5)
-You can use a 1jz Engine Gasket kit, but I am still researching the differences in 1jz/2jz front main and rear main sizes due to crank differences. I am almost 98% positive that they are the same. This will allow you to take care of any bottom end gaskets, as well as the head/intake/exhaust gaskets. 2jz/1jz valve stem seals are the same as mentioned in the 1jz compatability thread.
2jzgte Valve Stem Seal P/N's follow:
Intake - 90913-02123 X 12
Exhaust - 90913-02088 X 12
Injector O-Rings are the same between 1jz and 2jzgte (side-feed only)
Small Water Bypass pipe (between WP and tube to the head) o-rings P/N: 96761-24023 X 2 ($3.27 each)
Water Pump O-Ring for the block (2jz/1jz) P/N: 96761-24040 X 1 ($3.27)
Most importantly, the Headgasket. All 1jz and 2jz headgaskets are multi-layered steel (MLS) from the factory, hence why most people stick with stock unless you need an aftermarket gasket to increase the thickness (ie: 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm gaskets to change the compression. Not recommended due to messing with Squish/Quench areas during combustion, but if you need to... DO THE MATH RIGHT! Compression Ratio Calculator).
The headgasket has been a point of debate and I have yet to find concrete evidence on which would be best to use. The 2jz block and 1jz head have slightly different sizes on passages for coolant and oil. I would recommend using the 1jzgte headgasket as it appears to allow more oil flow to the head itself, whereas the 2jzgte/ge gaskets have differences in those same holes. Both appear to work, and I leave the decision up to you. I am looking further into what exactly would cause myself not to choose a cheaper (higher CR as well) 2jzge MLS headgasket and will report my findings. So far this is what I have seen:
1jz head -> Use a 1jz headgasket
2jz head -> Use a 2jz headgasket
This thread has a little bit of info, nothing concrete though. FOCUS ON THE PICTURES IN THE FIRST POSTS. 1jz/2jz Headgasket Differences - Focus on the pics!
Still researching....
-To assemble the engine I would use the 2jz bearings (check your clearances first) for the bottom end and new rings (use the right rings for the right piston, 1jz and 2jz are different) on a fresh hone. All ARP hardware is swappable between the 1jz and 2jz's (Rod bolts, Main Bolts/Studs, Head Bolts/Studs, flywheel bolts - 8 total, as opposed to the 7M's 6 bolts).
Next We will discuss Electronics and how you might run this engine. To be continued....
-1.5jzgte Build/Swap Basics
Note: Most of this info can be pulled from both the 1jz and 2jz swap parts lists, but I am bringing all of the other scattered pieces of information into this as well. This is to both help myself as I am nearing the engine assembly phase of my build, as well as others looking to do this swap. I know we have some users on here that have running 1.5jz's, so feel free to post up your experiences and thoughts/ideas!
As always, the author (me) may leave something out, it is up to you to know what you need for your specific application. This is a basic compendium to get the random bits to make it all work. Always use a fresh engine (clearances checked, cleaned, correct bearings) and gaskets to avoid major issues down the road. I will not tell you the basics of building a motor for performance, go read those stickies! This is just to get a 1.5jz assembled with the unusual quirks.
Toyota Part Numbers will be in red. If it isn't Toyota, I will tell you where to find it, or use Ebay/google/driftmotion/suprasport/etc...
First of all, WHAT is a 1.5jzgte?
-It is the 2jzge or 2jzgte 3.0L inline six cylinder block, with the 2.5L 1jzgte head.
For background, the 2jz engines use the same crank, rods, and blocks between the non-turbo and turbo engines. The 2jz heads ARE different between the 2jzge and 2jzgte, with the VVTi versions being on their own as well. Please note, 2jz VVTi engines use thinner/weaker rods than the non-VVTi engines, but can still withstand a decent amount of power (some see 300hp, some see 500hp) with a good tune. As in all things, there are exceptions. The 2jz rods/blocks/heads are interchangeable, as long as you have the proper pieces that are supposed to go with each (ie: VVTi cams with a VVTi head. If you don't get this, then don't attempt to mix and match!)
The 2jzge pistons are different from the 2jzgte pistons due to higher compression, but can be interchanged as long as all 6 are the same set. Some people do this to raise or lower compression based on machining clearances, head gasket sizes, and personal preferences in goals for the Compression Ratio. (Pictures coming, I have both sets.)
The 1jzgte and 2jzgte pistons are the same design (both use 8.5:1 CR's), with some clearance/size differences. I would not recommend swapping 1jzgte pistons onto 2jz rods until you have checked all sizes (wrist pins, locks, rings, etc) and determined they will work for your build (personally, I'd stick with 1jz on 1jz and 2jz on 2jz pieces. :icon_bigg).
The 1jzgte head does not affect the 3.0L displacement of the engine because the bore and stroke are the main factors in this.
The 1jzgte has a shorter stroke due to a different crank because the 1jzgte block has a shorter deck height.
*Keep in mind that 1jz/2jz blocks are basically the same, with minor differences aside from the deck height. Oil pans, pickup tubes, mounts, and brackets will swap*
DO NOT USE THE 1jzgte CRANK WITH A 2jzgte BLOCK AND VICE VERSA. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.
Yes, the 1jzgte rods are also the same as the 2jz rods (different P/N?), it's the crank that yeilds a different stroke. Although I still recommend sticking 1jz pieces with 1jz pieces as before. :icon_bigg
As mentioned earlier, there are exceptions and different approaches to this info, so make sure to further research your specific application. This is just information I have put together and cannot be held responsible if it does not work for you. Although, I DO check my sources and confirm or try to confirm everything I read, and will not post info that is false (I will say if I am unsure about something though, in which case feel free to provide info I may have missed!).
WHY would someone want to use/build a 1.5jzgte engine?
Some people like to be different. Some people have parts laying around and this is cheaper than buying a whole new engine setup. Others like the idea of a 3.0L turbo engine masquerading as a 2.5L engine. Personally, I love having people mistake me for the 2.5L. :evil2:
All in all, it is a personal preference. Why did you choose to keep the 7m? Why did you go 1jz? Everyone has their own view point and argument, go with what YOU want or like!
What are the Advantages and Disadvantages of this setup?
Some of this is personal, some of it is based on facts (see link for head flow info)
Advantages:
-A nice, clean FFIM and head setup over the 2jzge-t swap. 2jzge-t Swap List
Versus
-Finding a use for parts that you would otherwise use as a door stop
-3.0L displacement over the 2.5L displacement. This is more of a personal preference as the 2.5L 1jzgte is a very capable motor, but there is no replacement for displacement.
-The 1.5jzgte looks like a normal 2.5L 1jzgte if someone does not know which block is being used.
-The 1jz head is easier to purchase (and cheaper) than a 2jzgte head
-Most of the 1jz and 2jz sensors/electronics/parts are interchangeable (cam pos. sensors, crank pos. sensors, igniters, coolant sensors, oil level sensors, coil packs, MAP sensors [Including the JDM 2jz 1.3 Bar sensor], injectors (this will be covered later as each has it's own necessary piece for upgrading/swapping), oil pumps (2jzge from 96+ can be used as it has the provision for the crank pos. sensor [same sensor as 1jz/2jzgte]), 2jzgte/1jz t-stats and coolant pipes, etc... Basically use the 1jz and 2jz swap parts lists and the thread on how to treat a 1jz.
How to treat a 1jz. What Parts are compatible. (Look further down on first post)
2jzgte Swap List
1jzgte Swap List
Disadvantages:
-The 2jz heads (ge and gte) have been proven to flow more air than the 1jzgte head. Supra Head Flow Comparison
-This will cost a little more than a basic 2jzge-t build, but usually builds end up anywhere from $3-6,000 dollars.
HOW do I get this engine in my car, and safely refreshed?
Just like any other 1jz/2jz...
-Use the BIC swap brackets for your year (86.5-89 and 89-92) Supra to clear the cross member. Also make sure you use the square mounts for 86.5-89, and the round mounts for the 89-92 (you can also use JZA70 mounts and JZA80 mounts).
(Clarification because people like me get confused)
Bracket: Bolts to engine itself and allows for proper positioning in the bay
Mount: Sits between engine and chassis for vibration dampening (unless you get billet mounts like mine. lol)
-You will need a rear sump oil pan for Supras, a front sump will not work without major fabrication. Rear sump pans can be found with JZA70 1jz engines, JZA80 2jz engines (MKiv Supras), SC300s, and possibly a few others I cannot think of at the moment.
-Use a 1jz Bellhousing to mate the R154 transmission to the 2jz block. If you use a W58 (not recommended due to lower power tolerance), you can use a JZA80 or similar W58 2jz bellhousing.
-Use any 1jz flywheel (stock or lightweight) with a 7M/MKIII Supra clutch setup (pressure plate, PP bolts, Clutch disk, bearings, fork, etc...)
Now, for 1.5jz specific pieces:
-Use the 1jzgte or 2jzgte mechanical water pump and 2jzgte/ge water pump pulley (just buy a Driftmotion 1jz/2jz pulley kit, but use the crank pulley at your own risk. 1jz/2jz crank pulleys are identical through all years/models). You cannot use the 2jzge rear-housing because it will not connect to the pipe used by the 1jzgte head unless you fabricate something. (For clarification) The 1jz/2jz Hydro Fan water pump will only work if you use the entire hydro pump assembly. The front section of the pump will not swap between hydro's and mechanicals. (Insert picture of pumps, hydro and mechanical)
-Use a 1jz or 2jz oil pump. As mentioned previously, the 1996 and up 2jzge pump has the necessary provisions for the crank position sensor. You may also want to get the 1jz/2jzgte crank timing gear as well with this because the '96+ 2jzge crank gear has different teeth and will not read properly unless you use an aftermarket ECU setup.
P/N for the GTE 12-point timing gear: 13052-46010
While you're at it, replace the crank keys as well, Toyota P/N: 9028-05005 X 2 ($2 each IIRC)
And maybe the crank pulley bolt too, P/N: 90119-18002 (includes large washer) ($5)
-Use the 2jz timing belt and pieces, it will work with the taller deck height of the 2jz block, and has no issues with the 1jz cam gears/head. Pieces needed: 2jz timing belt (ge or GTE), hydraulic tensioner, and tensioner pulleys.
If you've lost your timing belt guide like me, here's the P/N: 13566-46010 ($5)
-You can use a 1jz Engine Gasket kit, but I am still researching the differences in 1jz/2jz front main and rear main sizes due to crank differences. I am almost 98% positive that they are the same. This will allow you to take care of any bottom end gaskets, as well as the head/intake/exhaust gaskets. 2jz/1jz valve stem seals are the same as mentioned in the 1jz compatability thread.
2jzgte Valve Stem Seal P/N's follow:
Intake - 90913-02123 X 12
Exhaust - 90913-02088 X 12
Injector O-Rings are the same between 1jz and 2jzgte (side-feed only)
Small Water Bypass pipe (between WP and tube to the head) o-rings P/N: 96761-24023 X 2 ($3.27 each)
Water Pump O-Ring for the block (2jz/1jz) P/N: 96761-24040 X 1 ($3.27)
Most importantly, the Headgasket. All 1jz and 2jz headgaskets are multi-layered steel (MLS) from the factory, hence why most people stick with stock unless you need an aftermarket gasket to increase the thickness (ie: 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm gaskets to change the compression. Not recommended due to messing with Squish/Quench areas during combustion, but if you need to... DO THE MATH RIGHT! Compression Ratio Calculator).
The headgasket has been a point of debate and I have yet to find concrete evidence on which would be best to use. The 2jz block and 1jz head have slightly different sizes on passages for coolant and oil. I would recommend using the 1jzgte headgasket as it appears to allow more oil flow to the head itself, whereas the 2jzgte/ge gaskets have differences in those same holes. Both appear to work, and I leave the decision up to you. I am looking further into what exactly would cause myself not to choose a cheaper (higher CR as well) 2jzge MLS headgasket and will report my findings. So far this is what I have seen:
1jz head -> Use a 1jz headgasket
2jz head -> Use a 2jz headgasket
This thread has a little bit of info, nothing concrete though. FOCUS ON THE PICTURES IN THE FIRST POSTS. 1jz/2jz Headgasket Differences - Focus on the pics!
Still researching....
-To assemble the engine I would use the 2jz bearings (check your clearances first) for the bottom end and new rings (use the right rings for the right piston, 1jz and 2jz are different) on a fresh hone. All ARP hardware is swappable between the 1jz and 2jz's (Rod bolts, Main Bolts/Studs, Head Bolts/Studs, flywheel bolts - 8 total, as opposed to the 7M's 6 bolts).
Next We will discuss Electronics and how you might run this engine. To be continued....
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