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Soo question, I have my driver door panel off and noticed this. Wondering what is this made of? Kinda looks to be some kind of board. I'm thinking if I fix this with fiberglass, would it work?

Welp got the part back from the computer shop. Lol should have taken a picture of the finish product before I got too excited to test and installed it. He did a good job. Everything works properly for the horn now. Woot woot. Now on to figuring the headlight issue. I'm thinking I have an issue...

I do have a soldering kit but wanted to have a new trace put in as well as new solder mask to protect from corrosion. Plus my hands are not as steady as they use to be. I did find a computer repair shop near me and one look the tech said yeah man that is a easy fix. He said he would have it...

Not a rubbing point or does not come in contact with any other parts. Reading the continuity and voltage going to the horn all seems ok. Wonder if this was a bad part from another supra dropped in here. Will probably take this to a computer repair shop to see if they can fix it as they should...

This is for them computer tech guys. I figured i would look into why my horn was not working and why the previous owner bypassed with a autozone switch for the horn. Diagnosed to the multifunction headlight, turn signal, windshield switch and noticed this break in the horn board circuit. Is this...

Here is the TSRM link. There is a wiring diagram there for the 7m's. Definitely a start. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291210/body.aspx

Do you still have the old spark plugs? I would drop those back in and see if it starts to rule out the spark plugs. Does the engine just spin just no start? Battery good? Spark plug wires new or old?

Yeah but after I swapped in the 1jz, no power is getting to the super monitor. Will have to back track to see where I need to tie this to a power source. I think I already know but haven't had time to dig in to it.

Got me a dash cover to hide the cracks and prevent new cracks from forming. I think it was fairly good price at $45.

Installed the driftmotion aluminum crank pulley and reassembled everything today. Video of supra idling below. Seems to be doing good. Will have to evaluate after a few hundred miles to see if there is a change.

No worries, not sure if this will work on the 7m pulley. It is a deep pulley and the tool did not list any 80's toyota as fitment.

I did go ahead and cheap out and get the aluminum pulley until I can save enough for the fluid damper or ati just to get the supra on the road for a few months. Question is what would I tourqe the bolt to with this aluminum pulley on?

Ok here is the oem pulley with everything attached as far as what I did to break the bolt free. Here is the breaker bar on both ends of the tool

Here is the tool installed to the crank pulley.

Yup the tool fits perfectly. The bolts were long enought and the perfect size. I would run a thread chaser through the threads on the pulley though as mine seemed a bit rusted. I can get a picture of the tool installed on the pulley later tonight for yall.

Great, it worked flawlessly. Got the crank pulley bolt broke free and crank pulley off the engine. Just waiting on the new pulley to be delivered.

So in theory the aluminum pulley will have more vibration during idle and normal driving compared to a dampen pulley. But drivability will still be the same correct? I did buy the crank pulley tool so will test this to see if it works. Was only $20 on amazon.

I will use this method along with the tool I bought.

Also has anyone tried one of these tools to help remove the crank pulley bolt...

Yes the rubber did separate. I'm considering aftermarket to negate this issue in the future. Considering the ATI pulley but looking into the reliability of the aluminum pulley.