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Yes, it's possible. You need a JZ to R154 bellhousing and a JZ flywheel. The clutch disk and PP are the same. GL

The latest Toyota part number for the 1ZZ coils is 90919-02262. This supersedes the following part numbers which should also work: 90080-19015, 90080-19019, 90919-02239, 90919-T2002. You're probably already aware but these won't work with stock 7M electronics and are designed to work with an...

No direct experience with them, but I have heard second-hand that they know what they are doing: Rob's Auto Machine Shop in Hayward: http://www.robsautomachinehayward.com/ Definitely worth a call at least, good luck.

Nice. You upgraded from the DM spearco replica, right? Better performance?

Thanks! Yep, PO deleted A/C, ABS, SRS, and a few other stupid things unfortunately. Not a soft delete either. Intercooler is mounted like so: This is the CXRacing IC kit for 1JZ with twins. The hot side doesn't fit, like documented, but I used the lower half of it and a 30° to make it...

I completed my first engine conversion today! It was a long project but a great experience.

It is in the Radiator & Water Outlet section, page 16-03. You're looking for 16285, which is 16285-42010, if you wanted new.

Removed my 7M. The best part was no drips whatsoever!

Do you prefer 80s styling, or 90s styling?

Nice! This happens to me a lot, too.

If you are looking for a full solution, check out the Driftmotion kit. I haven't looked back since I got mine. Just be sure to orient the gaskets correctly (15471 and 15473):

Yes, here is the thread outlining the modifications needed to get this turbo working properly: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?102040-T61-Bolt-on-Turbo-by-Cx-Racing

It is easy to tell if your CT26 is upgraded, pull off the accordion hose and see if your inducer is larger than the stock one. Image is stolen from Bishop's site and rehosted to not tax his bandwidth:

I believe JDMMA70's car is a targa. Here are some pics of it (found on this forum): Sorry JDMMA70! :)

^ I can vouch for this statement.

This has worked out quite well for me in California, though my ddp recirculates.

Well, you can use #3 for #1, (i.e. use the right tool for both) and instead of #2, you can try to leave it in gear and use the e-brake and wheel chocks.

It is something like this: Bolts go into the holes into your pulley and turning the center bolt on the tool pushes against the crank snout and pulls out the pulley.

The timing gear should have threaded holes for the pulley removal tool:

This is absolutely beautiful. Many many hours were spent here, and it really shows. Would love a sound clip!