Search results

I've found out this about the lamp failure box 89373-32120 - 86-92 N/A, 87 Turbo (27W High Mount, 1156 Bulb) 89373-14050 - 88 Turbo (17W High Mount, 921 Bulb) 89373-14070 - 89-92 Turbo (LED High Mount) All models: 3.8W Side Markers (Qty: 2, 194 Bulb) 27W Turn Signals (Qty: 2, 1156...

A little background on mine. Its a 1988. Suddenly no brake lights one night. Tail lights and marker lights work. (Although wiggling the marker light wires makes it go off then back on when you wiggle them again..) Fuses do check out okay. Tried replacing the brake light switch, and that changed...

I've currently ran into the same problem myself. Got all lights, except brake lights. Fuses are fine, and tried replacing the switch but thats a no go either. I fear I will be tracing wires. :\

Well, I bled the system with the wheels up in the air. I spent a good 30 minutes. First with the car off, easy turning. Then with the car on, just a little noise when I reached the stop. I checked underneath to make sure there were no visible leaks, and the rack bellow boots have been sucked in...

Its gonna be thursday before I can get back to work on it, but i'll post with how things went.

I believe they are. The return is the further one back slightly to the left and the pressure line is the closer one forward, correct? I was told by a guy I work with just now that I should of been trying to do it with the wheels off the ground, to bleed the rack. Hopefully that is my only...

This has me stumped, so I'm looking for some insight. I have an 88 Supra turbo, so its non-PPS. It began with a leaking passenger side seal on the rack. From when I noticed this, a few days later the pressure line burst. So, I decided to replace it all since it was all factory. I bought a reman...

the wiring is gonna be a pain in the ass to do. :(

no, that would be filtered water. distilled water is...distilled. in simple terms it is you boil water, then let the steam condense back to water which removes impurities.

you must work in a far better district that i do, friend.

i work at an advance auto myself. from personal experience auto zone does seem to hire its share of dumb asses and is probably the worst. the other big two diy, advance and oreillys have their share of dumb asses too though. i've worked with a few myself. but i guess when you work in an industry...

i don't know about the wires since my store doesn't sell them, but i would agree that the plugs seem to be shit specially for their price. a lot of guys in domestics tend to bring them back with complaints and its to the point that i don't recommend them to anyone unless they specifically say...

both are right, they're just for different things. the wiring order is indeed 1-6, 3-4, 2-5. the firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4. wiring order is what you use for the coils to the plugs, the firing order is what order the plugs fire.

ARPs are going back with the composite gasket (i know i know..) as long as everything is fine.

Sorry, sorry! I guess I haven't provided any back story on my Supra. Its a 88 Targa turbo with TEMS, stock c26, Greddy bov, Tanabe springs, Tokico Illumina shocks, Tanabe 3 inch downpipe, Apexi N1 exhaust, Greddy Electronic boost control and Turbo timer. I run 8 psi boost. It came with all of...

its offical, BHG! i knew all along, but a man can dream.

A quick reply to everyone at once.. No residue in the coolant overflow, no strange colors, no "sweet" smelling exhaust. oil looks fine thankfully. radiator itself is pretty new, it was just replaced not too long ago when i got it. i am doing it myself and i have pretty much everything available...

I know this has been gone over time and time again, but I'd like second (third,fourth,fifth..) opinions. A few weeks ago noticed the motor run hot (almost all the way to the red, when its normally at 4 o'clock everytime i glance). Coolant was low, filled it back up and it ran fine, seemingly no...

Yeah, I wish i would of known from the begining the easiest by far way to do it is to replace the whole thing.

After browsing the forums (and losing the damn bearing too) I've decided its just going to be much less headache to replace the entire combination switch. I guess i should of done that from the begining, but live and learn i guess.