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Quote: 2- Air pockets in the coolant system 3- Clutch fan cooling fan 4- Vaccum leaks these are not 7m problems. those are maintanence problems. in other words, lazy, unskilled, incompetant owners! dont blame the car for problems that the owner has caused/allowed to develop...

It seems like it all depends on the situation: if you just did a complete rebuild of your motor versus if you changed some gaskets and did a BHG job and always used regular oil (my case - 121,000 miles worth) and so on. This is what I am going to do: 1- Use Toyota brand oil filters (or...

Thanks for the replies. I had the rear main seal replaced and the gaskets when I had the BHG fixed. So I should be OK to switch over. Also, I just switched over from the green coolant to the red last week. I am upgrading the fluids -- a cheap "mod". :icon_wink

I have an 87 Turbo and had a very similar situation. It ended up being boost leak (an intercooler pipe was loose from the increase in pressure from 7 PSI to 13 PSI). Check the lines to and from your intercooler and also the turbo. You may also be running lean which is a different problem...

My car always had regular (non synthetic) oil and I was wondering if just draining the oil, replacing the filter and adding a synthetic oil like Mobil-1 was OK? Is there anything I need to do like a motor flush? I always thought it was OK to switch over but some say once you have regular oil...

OK seems easy. I think you have to short out something in the diagnostic block - some people use a paperclip for this step in setting the timing. I called Toyota - they want $370 :eek3: for a new ISC. They said you have to buy the whole thing so if your ISC guts are no good... too bad...

I think this is a common problem. The TSRM says it is ignition timing. I guess we don't worry about it if your timing is OK.

Timing gun question: Any suggestions as to where to buy it or what manufacturer? I don't have one and never used one. I need the experience.

So then I should not worry about this one then?

I checked the terminals on the ISC and they are within spec (10 to 30 Ohms as specified in the TSRM). I saw around 22 to 23 Ohms for the resistance for the two checks. I didn't take the ISC completely apart. But what another member said about "giving it a squirt" so the car does not stall...

"Bad/blocked stepper motor for the ICS" What is the ICS stand for please? I forget... Thanks

No problem - I welcome it! I just wanted people to respond to the right person that's all...(Not to mix up the answers)... :)

(original author) I have a brand new AFM from SupraSport. The electronics are the originals; I have no error codes. My vaccum: when I first start the car -- around 16.5 PSI When car warms up and is on for a while -- around 18.5 PSI

Please see other thread "Stalling after high RPMs" - it is related - thanks Mods: Lexus AFM 550 cc injectors HKS SSQV BOV racing intercooler with custom pipes suprasport turbo elbow, 3 inch downpipe, 3 inch exhaust, tanabe cat back 1 super flow CAT (Stock Turbo) SAFC HKS EVC...

The thing is - the BOV is being recirculated. It isn't venting to the atmosphere. I forgot I also have the Walbro fuel pump in the list of mods. The missing at idle and stalling after high acceleration was occurring in my car for the past 3 years. These problems were there before all my...

Mods: Lexus AFM 550 cc injectors HKS SSQV BOV racing intercooler with custom pipes suprasport turbo elbow, 3 inch downpipe, 3 inch exhaust, tanabe cat back 1 super flow CAT (Stock Turbo) SAFC HKS EVC electronic boost controller Zeitronix Wideband O2 sensor (just the lambda and the...

I have a small backfire after deceleration, when shifting between gears and going from a higher RPM to a lower RPM. Anything I can check or a suggestion? Thanks

1- Head gasket :evil: 2- Air pockets in the coolant system :nuts: 3- Clutch fan cooling fan 4- Vaccum leaks 5- Intercooler size/efficiency 6- Missing at idle

Anyone know the cause of a 5-speed 7M-GTE stalling after hitting higher RPMs? For example, say a half hour drive on the highway and then winding down the RPMs when approaching a stop sign or stop light? It does not happen all the time but seems to happen the most when going from a high RPM...

I thought I should be around 20. Oh well at least it is steady at 16.5 and does not fluctuate. Looks like I need to see if the valve timing and ignition timing are OK. The car has 121,000 miles and the timing belt was changed by the previous owner at 75,000 miles. Maybe I will replace that...