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So, this isn't about a supra but oil isnt supra specific. It's about my 79 trans am. I rebuilt the motor in 2002 and didn't complete it. It's sat inside a garage that was def very damp. It's seen almost a decades worth of winters with the motor open. No valve covers, distributor or spark plugs...

Hi. I worked on my car for he first time in almost 2 years (not ncluding my suspension swap a few mos ago). It felt weird being under the hood again. Also the first time wrench was put to supra in my new house. Backstory all begins when this motor was built about 5 years ago for a guy...

i was pondering the idea of sequential twins but parallel is much easier. and since the OBX twin T3/greddy manifold is only a couple flanges away from a standard T3 foot print, i thought about getting one and modifying it... but im not sure when a pair of T3's with 0.86AR hotsides would come...

since the brakes on my car were acting up, its been parked for a while. i decided to get off my ass and pull the turbo off to fix my pre- and post-turbine exhaust leaks as well as port out my WG hole to alleviate my boost creep issues. i wanted to be able to reliably control my boost level so i...

so, when i went to the dyno, my car had something of an exhaust leak. i knew my DP flange was warped and i assumed thats where the leak was; post-turbo. well, more recently, i found out i had a pre-turbine exhaust leak too. you think this gasket is reusable? i stumbled across a toyota...

ok, i was hoping this was only a problem i encounted with higher-mileage cars, but now my 74k mile car is doing it and i cannot figure out what the problem is caused by. my ex's car did it and my old 91 did it. when her car started doing it, it was so bad you could see the front rotors...

so, my side pipes are annoying me right about now, i wont deny that. ill never say that i dont like them or hate them. they emit some of the Coolest noises that an MK3 could ever make... however, i was on some twisties and my exhaust gave me away about 13 miles before the cop ever saw me. he...

im thinking about making my own oil vapor catch can for my car and possibly a combination coolant/power steering tank for my friends car. im changing up the PCV orientation on my car. ill get pics when its all done but for now, im keeping the specifics under wraps because i just want it to show...

ok, i got them... even if you dont need them anymore. i took them of a spare engine mount and torque strut mount but i didnt grind anything since i didnt feel like it. but youll see the offending areas and where you would need to grind in order to get the upper mount to line up properly...

I know it can be done, JetJock commented on doing it but i dont think ive ever seen an explanation. id like to sort mine out so its not so far off. i KNOW im not running with 0psi of hot oil pressure with 20w50 at idle. i also KNOW im not running -5psi w/ the key on and engine off. so...

so, i just put a decent fuel map on my car after converting over to Map-ECU. interestingly enough, i took their 550cc fuel map and scaled it 22% to compensate for my 440's and it was actually Too rich. it was hitting fuel cut in 2nd gear and up, at 3500 rpms. so, i took the original 550cc map...

im installing an original MAP ECU and a 1st Gen FJO wideband controller. id like to hook up the 52mm display guage, but i dont have the flat 4-pin connector that hooks to the WB controller. its a fairly common molex connector so im sure i can get one locally, but what color wires connect to...

So, after doing more research and someone offering to buy my modified T88... ive decided to look into a Different turbo. the HX and HY35's from the 89-97 and 98-02 Dodge Cummin's powered trucks are nice and all. the HE341 from the 03-04 ram is supposed to be slightly more efficient and has a 4"...

well, i was on my way to my friend's house to pick him up and head down to the Tampa meet at Super Target. the car seemed to be cutting out under 1500 rpm as i was cruising around 45mph. so i gave it a little more throttle to clear it out and it accelerated fine so i thought it was just running...

so, ive been having some sort of misfire problem with my car; both on cold starts, midrange RPM under light load after initally warming up and changing to only 6000-7000rpm while hot and WOT. its either my injectors fucking up (not sure if its associated with my over-night flooding issue) or...

so i want to make one. you know how the pre89 cars have the shock absorber mounted between the driver side engine mount and the subframe? well i kind of decided (after having chronic starting issues w/ my car) that these liquid mounts need extra stabilization. they are just FAR too...

just wondering if anyone knows if there is a process/method for testing the bosch sensors for inaccuracy after running leaded fuels. i know that the bosch WILL fail after a few months of being used with race fuels. my friend is running a PLX m300 and using the bosch. he says that his afr's are...

i thought this turbo was one thing. then i measured it and thought it was a bigger/better version of that one thing. then i found more specs on that bigger/better version and my measurements are not the same. my measurements are bigger than the bigger/better version i thought it was... but what...

well, ive been on the dyno Countless times. between my ex's 1jz car, several other mk3's with my friends, tuning mkiv's and such... this is the first time ive ever put something that I own on the rollers. ive been curious to see how healthy my car was with all the non-stock stuff i have yet...

after my other thread, its become apparant that its nearly impossible to compare cams just by name and manufacturer. most people end up wanting one came due to its namesake but buying another because of its price tag or foregoing that cam for a regrind from a 3rd party because it seems possible...