Search results

Send them out to RC Engineering, they flow test before and after and give you all the date you need on your injectors. http://www.rceng.com/ -Chris

I got it a month or so back, it did help here and there. The segments on the bottom end were really helpful for me, but who knows. As stated above it left out some key things, but for the money I would say it's worth buying. -Chris

http://www.supramania.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9033&d=1155782183 -Chris

True, any electric fan will be better than the fan on your a/c clutch. Check out my for sale thread, I have a 15" electric fan that should push a ton of air! -Chris

+1 that car looks incredible for the miles! You got the engine bay looking pretty factory-like as well. What are your secrets, tell me now :icon_evil -Chris

You've got some daYum low mileage there :naughty: haha the gauges look great though! I wish I had the patience to change all the LEDs in the dash. Roughly how long did it take you (not including the other gauges' install)? -Chris

I guess I've skipped a few steps here. Engine is almost ready to run. I decided to remove the entire A/C system after remembering in the past 2 years I've used it maybe twice between all my cars. All of the gauges are finally wired up, but I may be getting 3 more tomorrow: oil pressure (mech.)...

Good luck, always nice to see 7M's hitting 800whp! Any pics of the R32? (If shown I'm sorry they block all pictures at school) -Chris edit: my bad I knew you had the 2J just a moment of brainfartedness. I actually had your car as my background last month, it's one of my favorites! Good luck...

Leave the PS on the car, just unbolt the the resivoir from the head and water neck and push it out of the way. That way you don't have to fill and bleed the lines afterwards. Do you have a brown car like me? :wiggle: -Chris

Thanks guys, finally got it in last night after about 10 minutes..go figure. Just needed a good long pry bar to align the mounts. Most of my motor is put together now, but I won't have time to work on it much so hopefully a week from tomorrow I can drive it for the first time!! -Chris

I took the mounts off of the motor that was in it before and replaced them onto the new motor I have. I have a hoist set on the last hole (1/2 ton) so it reaches farthest into the bay. I think its just a problem of being able to wiggle it into the mounts. Did you mean to loosen the mounts on the...

Anyone else have issues with getting a motor back in an '87? Finally finished my build (haven't updated in a little while) and I've been prying on the chassis mount over and over to get the mount on the motor to line up. Any tricks? It's driving me insane :aigo: -Chris

Get the hose techniques kit! I just got mine the other day. Whatever you decide to do make sure you do one hose at a time!!! otherwise you run the risk of mixing up hoses -Chris

3" u-bends came in the other day (thanks Disced!) and yesterday my NGK plugs and wires came in! Along with two more 3" couplers and t-clamps, and my super red hose techniques kit. Everything looks great. I got the motor "in my car, sitting on one motor mount. I can not get it on the other for...

I had a question about this too, but I didn't want to make a new thread. Instead of running a pipe across the motor, over the hot turbo to a 90* through the airbox hole by the headlamp, would it fit using a 2.5" pipe mounted like the 1GGTE and having it exit like in tissimo's first picture...

I don't remember the rules on putting links to *other Supra sites* so if this isn't allowed please delete but I think this plan looks pretty decent. http://supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=359189 -Chris

Code 34 is boost leak, not sure if it would make it stumble as much as just a lack of power. You can reach fuel cut at <10psi, so that is a possibilty. Check all vaccuum hoses/ic couplers etc. Is it pouring black smoke when you accelerate? That would be a reference to a boost leak as well...

Around $8/quart depending on where you look for redline MT-90. GM Synchromesh is supposed to be really good for removing notchiness= smoother shifts, it runs about $11/quart though. Worth it on either one IMO -Chris

If it ruptures though, and you don't notice right away (assuming you don't have a trans temp gauge) allowing your trans fluid to drain that would make it veeeerrryyy hot pretty quickly. That means bad news. -Chris

I'm not saying I wasn't satisfied, it did it's job I just wasn't used to it. I had a mech. oil gauge on my Z28 and loved how it rose gradually. You simply hook it up to the oil pressure sending unit on the pass. side of the block. Kind of hard to get to unless you remove the accordian tube. It's...