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I don't doubt that, but you live in Canada correct? That's quite a difference considering the import laws here. That said, my thoughts on this aren't due to it being RHD as much as I am considering the package as a whole.

alright, even better considering there isn't supposed to be discussion in the for sale section. link updated.

I find it to be rather saddening, but at the same time I understand that one will likely never gain back what has gone into something like this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?157461-rhd-twin-turbo-mk3-supra-5000-FIRM.-palm-harbor-florida Obviously there are some important...

Will do. I'll mount the fuse right on the outside of the battery box (easy access, in plain sight, and close to the power source). Thanks again, this all helped a great deal!

Oh, that's for damn sure. After studying that table however, is there a downside to running too large a cable? It would appear 00awg is enough for more than double 100amps.

well, I'd say the wire is plenty big (gauge wise) according to that table. thanks, Mike.

Thanks, I was wondering if the 100 or 130A was the right choice, guess I'll go for the 100.

Welcome back, Bor!! oddly enough, I know a few people pushing 5-600whp on OE replacement rads with no issues.. In fact, the cooling is just fine :dunno: I'm not saying that's the best way, but sometimes things work just fine lol

yeah, in Florida heat I run Mobil-1 10w-40HM.. before that, I used 0w-30GC and found it to be too thin for my application. I might try the 5w-40 Rotella (IIRC my dad used to run that in his diesel 24' straight truck). ~80psi start-up, ~20psi idle, ~40-60 cruising, and ~80 at WOT. when it's...

Do not use oven cleaner. EVER. It's so caustic that it can and will etch/eat away metal.. the caveat is that there are various degrees of the stuff, but I'd steer clear. You might find it surprising, but the same GOJO that we use to clean our hands works great for cleaning motors, engine...

Interesting. well, it may shock the hell out of me, but if you were there while it happened I can't deny that. To deny that would just be sheer ignorance, dyno sheets on the other hand aren't all that hard to manipulate. Still, those numbers are beyond incredible... In fact, if all 1Js could...

I remember doing whilst confused, and a friend walked up and locked it with the handle up.. good times. like Razoe said, remote door-locks ftw.

Honestly, you are not going to convince me.. It's just not feasible, and btw my motor has perfect compression and is beyond healthy. Those numbers do NOT happen at stock boost. Period. This is nothing personal or anything similar, but I'd also like you to respect the fact that I know more about...

one hell of a build, very nice!

Yeah, or that too.. I dunno.

so, you see nothing off with ~378wtq @ ~3800rpm/stock boost? my car with: rebuilt twins, TRD ECU with revised timing, AFC neo, FMIC/piping, 3" Trust downpipe, Blitz Nurspec, and BCC managed 340rwhp and 310wtq @ 16psi. My numbers are considered to be on the better side from all I've been told...

I think you need to study the other line a bit more..

long story short and despite the safety issues (looking to rectify that btw), my car has always had the main battery cable from the hatch (relocated at time of swap) connected directly to the alternator. I have a 100amp SC300 alternator on my 1J, and the wire to and from is 00awg IIRC. What...

there is something about that graph above that makes me highly doubt the possibility of that being from a 1J, let alone stock twins.

The bottom line has been and always will be that the 2JZ is superior when it comes to 3L.. unless like it's been said a gazillion times, one gets it for cheaper or a combination of that and already having a modded 1J head/don't want to mess with wiring again. Also, trying to decide between a...