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you clearly didn't read my post... I said the SAFC + DDP did it.... as in over boosting... running out of fuel when the engine thinks it has enough, and then melting it... should I continue? what part about my motor (in my possession) holding up for 10,000+ miles with hard abuse didn't you...

cool, thanks... gut instinct was pointing at the pumpkin... makes me wonder though.... cause I know those are tough as well...

a little OT, but just so you know... guys do make 600+ whp on stock 7M blocks.... that said. I would thrash my 7m as often as my engine got warmed up. Respectfully of course... it NEVER broke down on ME... (12psi, stock motor, divorced downpipe, tune, ect....) generally speaking though...

think everyone's got it covered but TPS sounds like the culprit... if you can't get it to co-operate (need to adjust with volt-meter (see TSRM)) just try another one...

meh I ran my jdm 7m on USDM ECU for 10k+ miles at least running 350hp... engine blew when my buddy was driving it (think he over-boosted) ddp and safc working hand in hand on that one... I wasn't present to keep my pistons from melting :3d_frown:

sounds exactly like the valve stem seals... my car used to do this.... motor blew before it was fixed and the car was stolen

not sure if HK$ sells drag set-ups for the mkiii.... but I hear great things about the mkiv's HK$ drag suspension....

hrm.... yeh I might just stick with stock :-| I know I want a little bigger turbo though ( thinking t4 57 trim w/ .58 A/R hot) .... still severely undecided though... that's why I was wanting input... but I'm just getting vague opinions.... Oh, and yeh you're most likely right... My IQ is...

My buddy's 89 supra has developed a noise in the rear... not sure if it's drivetrain or suspension related... anyhow as he described it... he said it's binding up like a gear sync issue or something when accelerating from a stop turning left or right.... but he said it goes away once he...

hey now!!! I COULD make an external roll cage out of functional intercooler pipe... what of response then??? so no suggestions on who an excellent vendor is? and you guys mean to tell me that my torque output would be the same if I used a tubular mani over a cast one (stock or HKS)...

here it is guys... I'm looking to make a nice street set-up. I'm already dead set on using the stock TB and intake manifold... but concerning torque and response I'm assuming you would want a cast exhaust manifold... (please correct me if I'm wrong) but the real question is what turbo to...

well, somewhere between changing the fuel filter, swapping afm's, and getting a brand new TPS.... the car runs great now! only have to get the brake lights working now...

Alright, so grounds cleaned, went through 4 tps' all of which wouldn't calibrate correctly, so got a brand new one. The car ran fine, but it sputtered, and now it won't go past 2,500rpm. Code 11 has changed to a code 31 (AFM IIRC) and 2 different afm's have been tried on the car, as well as...

Hm. I would have cleaned the grounds already If I were working on it, but sadly my good friend is working on it in another state. So I'm not sure if he has or not. I'll definitely have my buddy look into both of those things now. Thanks agian for the advice :)

that's the suspect... also make sure you have crush washers where the line hooks to the block.

Once again I'm looking for any insight, or suggestions. As the title says. The car runs great but it refuses to rev past 2,200. This is the 87 with water damage that's being worked on. checked all grounds, replaced fuel pump, spark plugs, wires. It's throwing a code 11 which I believe is...

nice didn't see that 1

very nice, but I'd rather re-build a neglected car than drop that figure.

you got jdm tails or is that just the lighting?... either way DAMN SEXY

very nice! dang 7m's and their clutch destroying torque