The nominal amp draw for the ecu is 1a the nominal draw for the wideband gauge is 1.3a and the heater circuit for the sensor is 1.2a so I don't know if the total draw is 2.5a or 1.3a cause the gauge powers the sensor. In any case the total draw is between 2.3a and 3.5a
And just to make sure, it would be a bad idea to tap the battery wire that pins in the ECU. I just hate the idea of running an unloomed wire from the battery, but its better than my car catching on fire.
Okay, use B+ as signal or commonly known as (W1) on the relay, then I guess I am going to run a wire from the battery as the power source or (C1) for the wideband.
B+ is what the Map ECU told me to splice into to power it, So I need to run another relay using B+ to power the magnet, and a battery source to run the wideband. I don't want electrical fires, that's why I started the thread.
Right, then my next question is what is the best way of going about finding or making the battery source. Have you guys added and routed a wire directly from the battery to do this or is there another appropriate battery source closer to the ECU area, I'm just trying to find the easiest way to...
The power source is the 12v ignition on, so if the car was off it wouldn't drain the battery right? So I get the power directly from the battery and have the "switch" for the relay powered by the ignition switch? Thank you very much for the wiring/engineering lesson.
I just watched a how to on relays, but I'm still a bit confused. I want my wideband running the entire time as well as my fuel controller, if I used a relay and it's on all of the time doesn't that negate its purpose. I don't doubt that it may work, I just think I'm missing something.
I plan on running a map ecu, and I was wondering if I would be able to use the 12v ignition source for the ecu to power the map ecu as well as my wideband or if it would put too much load on the circuit? I'm not an EE and was hoping to hear from all of your experiences and know why it would or...
I have some pig tails for some PTE 550cc injectors and I wanted to know the part number for the male half of the injector connectors so I could make a plug and play harness so I don't have to cut the original harness. I know Supra sport sells a PnP harness for their FIC injectors, so I just want...
Yeah,the exhaust on the car is a 2.5" garage special right now, and that's the reason I'm practically killing for a 3". Another big reason why the power was down was cause the diff was on its last legs. radiod, you were hitting fuel cut at 11psi Dang, maybe I'll hold off on the intercooler stuff...
Its good to know the pump is the first weak link in the fuel system, I have a wallbro that I guess I should put in when I get a chance. But do you guys think it will hit 300rwhp with my proposed setup, I have head that a 3" exhaust can lead to huge power gains.
I have a question for you guys, I searched the boards and couldn't find a similar setup to what I'm looking at doing. I was wondering how far I can push the stock fueling on around 10psi. I currently have a GReddy ProfecB-II for my boost controller, a 57ct and a cone filter (on a freshly rebuilt...
Oh, I've been trolling the classifieds for a while now. I even have a WTB thread on here. I've seen a few things about, but none fit my budget (a firm $400). I'm also not a huge fan of the Canister exhausts, so I thought I could build what I want within budget. I already have a BIC DDP that I...
I'm looking to piece an exhaust together on a budget all 3" of course, I know I want a vibrant 1149 and two resonators, it looks like $250 so far with just the resonators and muffler and I want this to come in under $400 total. I'm wondering how much straight pipe I'm going to need, I was...
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