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that is AWESOME to hear! can't wait to get mine done! anybody have dyno numbers to see the increase in horsepower?

Ill start by saying I have a stock 7m-gte, with the exception of a SSQV and shimmed wastegate at 9psi. Just curious to know how much horsepower is added going from the stock restrictive exhaust, to a full 3" exhaust off the turbo (including elbow and DP). Does anybody have before and after...

OR!!!! "you know you left your headlights up, right?"

I did my BHG for about $800. I had the head machined, and I sanded the shit out of the block and smoothed it out and checked for straightness. Replaced it with a stock "Stone" headgasket, ARP STUDS, and I also had valve seals done, and a lot of other gaskets and hoses were replaced at the same...

sweeet!! cherry widebody from ladner going to be there?

how many supras is there gona be at this meet tomorrow!!? approx?...

wooo!!! its about time!! I'll be there!!

you should be at ABOUT the 18-20inHg mark at idle... as your driving and your accelerating and decelerating, the vacuum will vary up and down. However when you accelerating, vacuum will decrease and pass the ZERO mark, and this is when the turbo begins building boost pressure. From there it will...

waiting for numbers :)!!!

i have an aftermarket prosport digital water temp gauge with sender unit in place of the stock coolant temp gauge. But what you're saying is it might be worth buying a new sender unit (the one used for signal to the ecu) ? see if that solves the problem..?

or possibly maybe bad o2 sensor? when it's cold it is not understanding that the engine is running lean, therefore not able to tell the computer to provide more fuel? i don't know!! :S

exactly what MA70 just said!! same symptom here... I DO know, last winter when i first bought this car, it did NOT do this what so ever. I do think it is most likely running lean when it does this, because of the positive boost pressure and not much power! no boost leak, the car pulls like...

i realize this. but even so when im normally accelerating say just up a hill, and it approaches 0, there is no change in acceleration. its hard to explain, but i know for sure its not supposed to do this, cuz when i first got my car it didnt do this.

When my car is cold, for the first 3-4 minutes or so of driving, it is almost as though the injectors are not providing enough fuel to the cylinders. I do realize it is not advisable to be boosting when the car is not warmed up yet, but even so, minimal amounts of boost don't increase the...

yah! that would be interesting to see. What kelvin rating you running? Take a picture of the difference after u change one, and the other is still the 35w. thanks!!

hah. Alright. Well guys i have had a set of 8000k HID's in my headlights for about a year now. Havnt had ONE single problem with them. They are deffinately brighter than halogens as i have compared and taken pictures with various bulbs and housings. Yes, they scatter the light everywhere, but it...

Does anybody have any pictures of the difference between the usual 35W HID kits, and the newer 55W HID kits? Apparently the 55W is about 30% brighter still!

noo its definately the AFM unit itself. I checked the connections and voltage coming off the plug and wiggled it around, all is perfect. However, when it is plugged into the AFM, and i run the car, it runs like crap. But when i tap the afm with my hand, the idle jumps back up to normal for a few...

code 24 and 31. Intake air temp, and air flow meter. all in one case obviously. connections are perfect checked them. When i tap the black box (where the electronics for the AFM are), the idle goes back up and it runs fine, then goes bad again. Not gona waste anymore time, just ordered a new...

I believe i have a cold solder joint in my AFM electronics. Car runs rough, but when i tap on the AFM, it goes back to normal. Anybody know if its possible to open this thing up and check inside for a cold solder joint??