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The person on the other Supra Forum gave the correct answer M12 x 1.25. His link to Advance Auto Parts came back as an oil drain plug, which will work. Use a copper washer or permatex ultra-black silicone to seal it. The torque spec for the banjo bolt of the turbo oil line is 25 foot-pounds. The...

If you still have your old block, borrow the block off plate that's under the oil filter. Test fit the one you have that I saw in your other posting. Otherwise, you should be able to cook up a block off plate cutting one from aluminum. Make a paper template that fits or get the gasket...

This is the oil pressure feed for the turbo. It's drilled directly into the oil pressure galley that feeds the entire engine. This is where the banjo connects that you see in your photo to the right. The return drain is on the other side of the oil filter. That connects to the block and drains...

The urethane bushing kit should have come with silicone grease to minimize squeaking. I didn't have to use shims with the energy suspension bushing kit. Well done that you got this taken care of. Now you can focus on the other things, which there always will be. :)

I see you have the rare super monitor in place of a standard clock. About one in 10 cars had this option before it was discontinued after 88. The option cost was $250. I found one on eBay and retrofitted my 1987, since the plugs for the harness were there by default. I usually leave it on...

Take 5% off of your Rock Auto order at check out by pasting this code into "How did you hear about us". Expires: 07/26/24 at midnight central time. 270679451241050647 Rock Auto Shipping is kind of strange at Rock Auto, since deleting items can really change the shipping total. I usually...

With enough force, it may pop the JB weld away. Any reinforcement shouldn't be necessary, unless there is a problem causing the metal box to bend. A bolt rusted to the metal sleeve inside the rubber bushing would do that. You can try an exercise the bolt by jacking up that wheel and loosening...

New member paul22 It's pointless to reply to a thread from 2017. Whatever happened, they have solved it by now.

Thanks for doing that. I thought this was for a 7M pulley, my mistake.

Put the pulley back together to see if it still has enough reach from the front without touching the side extension. It may require cutting the rubber where it tore.

So you're saying the Amazon tool you ordered, in the link provided, fit properly? The bolts were long enough and had the correct thread dimensions, etc. If that's the case, I'm going to get one as well, because doing it the backyard way does stress the crankshaft a bit as trofimovich posted...

What I have done to remove and install the pulley bolt is to pull up the parking brake more than usual and put it into first gear. I have a 3/4" drive ratchet and I put a piece of pipe over the handle for added leverage to remove it. Putting it on I use a torque wrench. I believe the bolt size...

Are you saying that the rubber insulation that separates the inner and outer metal pieces deteriorated? I have a spare MK3 pulley, but I'm reluctant to part with anything because of scarcity. I see one on eBay for $75 plus $37 shipping and taxes.

We've all been there with these hatch area leaks. That's why I leave that rubber plug below the spare tire slightly ajar so that any water can drain out. Here are some observations. You can lift up the rear hatch gasket to see if you have any rotted out pinch welds (mainly at the bottom)...

Before I put in the urethane bushings in front, and replaced the rear control arm, the alignment shop applied so much force that they blew out several cam boxes, and also tore the rubber in the bushing allowing the cams to spin but no lateral motion. Several of the cams were also out of sync on...

Typically when the cam tabs get bent, the bolt has rusted to the center metal sleeve that goes through the rubber bushing. One way to verify this is to loosen the nut to see if the bolt will slide back and forth. I had both front lower suspension rear adjusting cam bolts and one rear No.1...

The 90915-YZZB2 box says it will fit M-series engine, so should work. When I did a search for this part number I'm finding they are made in Japan, Thailand, and what appears to be a copy made in China or PRC on the filter, so be careful. I can't say any one is better. Here is a list from my...

If your oil pressure is at least 36 psi at 3000 RPM with a warmed up the engine, then you're in good shape as far as the manual says. As long as maintenance was observed during that 100K miles, you shouldn't have any issues. The first time I rebuilt my engine was at 238,000 miles with the...

They got the part number correct for a GE non-turbo, which matches the picture, but you're right it's not a GTE and no intercooler parts either. I've sent a few emails to would-be sellers educating them. The only thing interesting in that lot are the seat belt tensioners. It's almost pointless...

The only issue with that is that after it's cut, they need to be on the same level. The best scenario would be if the front plate were equal or higher than the block before the cut. If the front plate is lower, and after the block is cut still lower, then that would be an issue. There would...