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600W constant is fairly significant on a 12V system. What amperage alternator are you using? This heater on high alone will be drawing ~43A @ 14V.

No, seals should be unaffected by oil pressure. If you are having seals blow out its usually due to a lack of a properly working PCV system. Best to keep the crankcase under a slight vacuum. The full flow oil cooler thread covers how to route the oil lines. Here is a simple diagram...

Haha very nice. So much extra OEM junk under the dash. You should weigh all the components removed to see your weight savings. Or just do a final vehicle weight once done.

I'll try to summarize quickly. Stock oil filter housing/cooler Pro - good packaging / compact - low component count / potential external failure points. - shortest oil path to feed the engine (lowest pumping losses) - no expandable components ( soft lines) Con -...

I had the "full flow " oil cooler route for some time. After weighing the pros and cons of that system I decided to totally ditch it. I now run a modified stock system w/ an entirely custom oil cooler setup, which is on it's own loop and separate pump. After a deep study of the stock system and...

Yeah I thought about it but it's really not worth the effort. There are nice aftermarket 3" dual outlet mufflers that are very close in appearance to stock. I went that route.

Could just be one of the internal baffles or pipes just rusted free. If you have a inspection camera you could shove it in there and figure it out. :D

Ahahah.... Anyone have a video clip of it?

Haha, same here. Their comments on the vehicle will likely be very generic. Unless someone there happens to know Toyota's. Should be entertaining if nothing else.

Hmm.. 46k.. maybe.

Re: Mo Boost, Mo Power, Mo 7m : 87 Turbo Supra 7mGTE Full Rebuild + Manual Conver + M Yeah mine has a blue shifter. Someday it might go back on if I ever get around to putting new leather on it. New oem replacements are long gone.

Ah, yeah. I thought it was the old OEM one. If it's a reman just exchange it out for one that works properly.

Probably a sticking/dirty and or bad solenoied in the starter. I bet if you removed it, took it all apart and gave a good cleaning it would work normally again.

Nice build. I like the wheels. What car show we're you in? I see a monster supercharger on the workbench there.

Re: Mo Boost, Mo Power, Mo 7m : 87 Turbo Supra 7mGTE Full Rebuild + Manual Conver + M Looking good!

LOL, wow great support from them. Thats pretty pathetic. A bit of research and you can figure it out. http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?998361-AEM-V2-Hall-sensor-mod https://forum.aempower.com/?q=forum/30-6100-how-setup-digital-hall-effect-crankshaft-and-camshaft-sensors Sounds...

Correct. It conditions the signal from a VR analog waveform to a digital output square wave like a hall sensor would output. The crank/cam signal timing and tuning would need to be modified to accommodate this, since they aren't triggered the same way. Yeah the digital signal will also help...

Someone from driftmotion did post up a video with an osillscope on the output level peaks between the stock vs/ with magnet stuck on it. But what they did not compare or maybe totally overlooked: -Signal timing -Total Shape of the Sine Wave -Signal integrity across the full RPM range -Signal...

I would be careful using the "magnet mod". Does not look like a good idea to me. 1. Just sticking it there and using no type of adhesive sounds like a good way to trash your cps if it gets dislodged and fly's around inside. 2. The stock magnet and its poles are aligned in the center of the cps...

Nice photo.