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Better yet, list some of the important mods and link the description to a build thread.

Did you check the light in your dash first?

Dan, it's easier to jack up a corner of the car, and measure how high you get before two tires leaves the ground.

No worries. Technically, it's not a power requirement. We only track a certain number - otherwise, we'd have 12,000 members wanting to be on the list. First of all, vBulletin would buckle like a cheap tent if we tried to keep track of that many people in a single thread, and secondly, keeping it...

There are a bunch of folks that aren't valid anymore - people have sold the car, blown up their engines, parted them out, etc. We don't drop them from the list... so the only way to take the #1 spot from Albert is to actually push more power than he did.

Excellent. I like it when it's easy. Updated. Added. This is akin to complaining about the brand when someone gives you free beer. I'm not a servant. I don't get paid to do this. Hell, it wasn't even my idea - I just picked it up when the last guy retired because nobody else would. It's this...

You can install the clutch fork using the access panels on the transmission. It just snaps into place.

Just wait until I unveil my secrets for replacing the clutch master in five minutes. :)

You can likely get them off a wreck, too. Plus lots of folks part out cars here, maybe one of 'em will have a ruined spoiler, and you can snag the mounting bits.

I ordered those from the dealer as well, without any problems. Admittedly, that was a couple years back, so maybe they are gone now, however, I've had my local dealer feed me a line of BS when it comes to ordering parts. Which is why I order from Mark at Vancouver Toyota now.

This. With two people, I can pull the starter on any Supra so far in under 5 minutes.

The aluminum crank pulley is a bad idea because the stock unit isn't just a pulley - it's a damper. On a long crank, like ours, you need a damped pulley on the end. As for the dual pump debate, the chances of losing a piston due to pump failure is pretty damn insignificant. Anyone going into...

Your choice, really... You can have them stripped and painted, and good shop will have access to the new stuff that makes paint stick to chrome, and I've seen that stuff work, it's DAMN impressive. After that, you could easily plastidip if you wanted. New ones are still available from the...

Usually, this means you neglected to plug in the hazard switch... but if the hazards are really working...

I've used the more modified Spec units - specifically the stage 3, which was a 6 puck, and had good results with that. I wouldn't hesitate to purchase their stuff again. I'm currently using a twin disc Clutchmasters, because I've gone well past the power handling capability of single disc units.

I'm with JJ on this one for sure. I purchased two used ones, both failed within a year of installation, before I picked up a new one so I could stop worrying about it for another 20+ years.

Wouldn't be much effort to paint the CF piece to match, well, anything.

I use the hard plastic ones from BIC. They sure are noisier than stock... whether they make a significant difference is still up in the air, but I don't have any regrets.

You're right, this doesn't solid mount the frame. I've only seen one guy do that, and I'm pretty sure he only machined a single set of the inserts. And he was from Scandinavia... they're all car crazy over there.

I bought it from a guy who pulled it off a brand new harness from Toyota. In hindsight, I should have had an injection mold made for the thing and pumped out hundred of the things. JJ is correct, you can only get it by purchasing the entire harness.