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17 and 19, crescent wrench and a engine hoist are all you need to pull the engine and trans.

Is that a caviler with flames?:biglaugh:

:greddy2:

I've ran without the hydro-fan (broken line) and didn't have the gauge go over a 1/3 of the way up, but my koyo race rad. may of been a factor to this also.

Yeah me too, in that pizza place, I also heard that it involved a bunch of lube. :biglaugh:

neo has normal and expert modes. one has 8 points the other has 16, buttons are easy to use.

Black mk2's FTW!!

Why don't you want to buy it?

The rods, valves, springs, cams, pistons are the same. A 6m weighs 45 and a 7m weighs about 65. It is the only difference between the motors with different redlines. So if nothing else changes, how can you call bullshit.

I think it had something to do with the weight of it. There is pros and cons to each crank, IMO the 6m is better and revs higher but the 7m is smoother.

But the redline was determined by the crank.

Why will you be using the 7m crank? In my opinion the 6m is better, it is lighter, can be balanced by a machine shop, and has a higher rev limit, but they both have their pros and cons.

Pics?

Alright, here is the deal, I have been researching about 2 steps. First, the msd dis-4, is it just a rpm activated switch or a rev limiter? Second, the Bee-r, it kinda looks cheap to me, is anyone using it? Third, I want to know what you guys are running and what you are using to...

Keep in mind that 7m's where only available in supra's till 90 in Japan, the jdm 7mgte's will be older and have probably been ran hard, or not ran at all and still have the stock head gasket, so you will have to expect to do a head gasket repair/rebuild to be safe, and if I recall, I remember...

If it is from a 88 or earlier, it will fit in your car perfectly with the gte electronics and igniter.

7mgte /thread