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Beyond bad idea!

The search function doesn't work well for me, so I avoid using it myself. Maybe he's had bad luck with it too.

I know, I got a few more from the post too, It inspired me. I'm stalled at the moment, as I'm awaiting my block cleaning brushes, but after they get here, I'll be posting pics of the assembly process, and my paint job.

Sorry I guessed wrong, but I had not heard about the MKIV wheel issue.

Maybe you should check the torque on the head bolts. It may have happened if you did not do all the proper torque, and re-torque steps. It won't help now, but it may give you insight into why it failed, so it doesn't happen again.

Quickest way is to get a JDM engine. You can find one for around a grand. A reasonably good rebuild will cost about that much. Look at this as an opportunity, Get the JDM engine, and the take your time and do a monster rebuild on the old engine. My JDM lasted about four years, before it blew...

Sears? Are you kidding me? Find a local speed shop, see who they recommend. If not, go to a Toyota dealer. As for the rubbing, not likely. You may have the problem I have. My left front splash shield got damaged, and the way it sits now, it rubs the tire, any time I turn hard. Since it's...

I was wondering the same thing!

Ya know, I'm just rebuilding my engine. If I can figure a way to do it, I'll post.

Pry bar always worked well for me. One hand on the bar, one on a wrench on the adjuster bolt, and tighten pivot bolt after final position. Takes about five minutes.

This picture is of my CPS at TDC. Put your engine at TDC, and line up the CPS like in the pic.

Pic schmic! Just do it one step at a time. Mount the IC, then fit each piece into place. Or, get a custom made kit, one especially for the Supra. I've seen them on ebay for about 400.00!

Yipee! I ordered the block cleaning brushes this morning. Woo hoo! Shimmed the oil pump the other day, and began the tedious cleaning of the peripheral parts with purple power, and some brushes. Going very slowly. Started to paint the parts that need it. Gonna paint the whole thing real nice...

Also, if you think about it, what you're saying with those specs, is that the bolts are actually torqued to about 18 ft. lbs. after oil drag differential is applied, with the stock parts and lube. Would you really want your torque value to be forty lbs. less than you set it for?

5% is better than no%, and doing it right, if you can, is better than hacking. I do it right whenever I can, so that's the way I recommend it.

Well since the weak link in this equation is low bolt torque, I feel that the higher and more accurate torque distribution of the moly would be beneficial under any circumstances. That's my opinion, based on what I've learned to date about torque lubrication.

First, did you bleed from all four brake calipers, or just one or two. If you didn't do all four, you will still have air somewhere in the system. If you did correctly bleed the entire system, then it's entirely possible that when you pushed the pedal to the floor, you got some sediment under...

Welcome, and congrats on getting a Supra! Remember, Supra, there is NO substitute. Just a little tip, about your tranny. If you are talking about excess play in the shift lever, You may need a new shifter bushing. If that's worn, broken, or missing, it will cause huge amounts of play in the shifter.

A cps being one tooth off will allow it to run, but it will run like crap, and you won't come close to getting the timing set. I know, cause it happened to me once.

As far as I know, you can't get the oem gasket in anything but the stock thickness. If any significant machining has been done, it would require a thicker HG, which are readily available in all MHG lines. Also, though this is only my belief, A thicker oem style gasket, if available, might prove...