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Pretty nice catch there... looks like a PWR radiator, those are sweet... looks like it could use some TLC, and some cooling system pieces - like the fan shroud, for one. Any pics of the interior?

432 torque in a 3400lb chassis = 127 torque per 1000lbs. 280 torque in a 2200lb chassis = 127 torque per 1000lbs. Should be pretty much dead even.

New stuff added - not much interest from most of the folks here, I'm sure. Pardon the filth, haven't had a chance to wash it after the install shop covered it in dust.

$20 here... and that's in Canadian $$$. Sounds like your local Toyota parts guy wanted you to buy him lunch today. :(

True... however, you would have to be a pretty shitty driver to screw up a 60mph roll.

I like the Organic Acid Tech in the Toyota red... lasts far longer than traditional corrosion inhibitors. 2 years vs 5 years. I don't care about the possible issues with copper, I've always run aluminum radiators anyway. Of course, you have to drive your car quite a bit to see the return on...

Oil pressure.

Well, I've put in a new relay for the now, and I'm in the process of hunting down some waterproof gear for peace of mind. Also installed the TRD thermostat last night, and I'll probably flush the coolant system and replace it with Toyota Red for the winter.

Check post #17 in this thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?115154-Which-spark-plug-to-use

Something doesn't add up here... you're pushing 132 hp per 1000lbs. He's pushing 173 hp per 1000lbs. Was he having traction issues? Is the Honda a dyno queen, with 380hp for a very small rpm band? Are you actually running 540 hp instead of 450?

QFT. Paranoia isn't always a bad thing - it's especially helpful when everyone actually is out to get you.

For my MAP, I just T'd into that big line with the bend in it directly to the manifold - the one on the front. Sounds like you're not seeing heat soak on your IAT sensor at all, which is awesome. Throttle to zero just means foot off, so the throttle plate is closed. You'll still get some...

Any progress to report on these?

I've got a picture of that somewhere, I'm sure. Hold on a minute or six... Edit: Ahhh... there we go.

Dammit, I fucking KNEW I should have replaced everything while I was in there. The damn relay was toast too. Took me forever to figure out why the hell the fans STILL weren't working.

Quick question - I noticed that some of those thermostats offer both 180 and 200 variants. Any preference for one over the other?

Alive it is. I missed you when I originally took over this thread because you were on the list already - I didn't realize you were posting an update, so I naturally figured whoever had been maintaining this previously had already taken care of you. Anyway, it's been edited now.

Yup, that's definitely going to cause issues on hot starts. In theory, it should run rather rich when you start it hot... of course, the funny thing about that is it's designed to run rich on COLD starts, too. Furthermore, if that VSV ever fails, and it happens to fail in the wrong position...

Actually, he's right, the stock FPR VSV is on or off. On hot starts, it switches the FPR vacuum signal from manifold pressure to ambient pressure, which increases the fuel pressure for a short period of time to avoid heat soak boiling fuel in the rail. Depending on where you tapped into this...

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