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Well then let me see. I really want you to prove me wrong. And that's not a "hey fuck you" prove me wrong. I'm just glad people are pushing the limit of wheel/tire fitment on these things. I just really want to see it.

But don't hit the actual tie rod end, hit the spindle. A couple smacks with a good hammer and the thing should drop. But don't hit the threads, even with a nut on there, I've seen them mushroom too many times from people thinking that was a good idea and then smacking them around until they...

So you're fronts are going to stick out about 1.5" more than mine with 9.5+12 in the front. And your rears almost 2" more. I really doubt a pull is going to give you that much more room.

What are you doing for fenders?

That wheel/tire setup is going to be for hill climb and road race. The other setup will stay around and be the drift setup. I can't commit to one or the other, I like them both too much.

I wish I could say mine was too, but I sold the crazy fitment baller wheels. But I do want to fit 10.5s in the front and 11.5s in the back with 275/40/17 in the front and 315/35/17 in the back. They're hoosiers too.

This gets a little complicated. There is a critical damping value, this is the value with which there will be the least amount of overshoot and the quickest settling time. With damping values over this critical number, settling time will take longer but there will be no overshoot, the...

Right, the tire is the most important part of the equation. With all the suspension work and setups that people do, without having a good tire on there, they're just sacrificing potential grip. But once you have the good tires, you need the suspension tuned to take full advantage of the grip...

Becauseican, does that mean I can borrow the front bar off of that clip? Any chance of a rear bar lying around somewhere or on someone's car? Supraguru, with stiffer springs, you need less sway bar to keep the same roll stiffness. So it's not as much the speed of the weight transfer, it's...

Alright, so who else has bars that I can test?

Awesome, Shaeff, good to hear. I'm not too far, I'm a little north of Philly. But either way, we could definitely put something awesome together. Tim

It helps for relative stiffness, but it gives no answers on the actual stiffness of the bars. Because of all the bends in the bars, it is hard to estimate the stiffness on paper, that's why physical testing is necessary. Tim

I would first like to say that most of this is good info, so thanks Mr. Self Destruct. But I really do hate these things, they much too general and somewhat vague, so I'm going to add my input and make things a little more applicable to the supra. You also need to adjust/revalve the dampers...

That can be fixed. What's your current setup suspension wise?

Shaeff, I think there's a guy on here who can build dampers to match the car and he's also the SME for suspension. Just in case you need another option. As for weight, cutting more weight is the goal for my brother's car. It will be getting a cage soon and I want to use the thinner...

Talk to Ckanderson, I'm pretty sure that you can still get Illuminas, so you should just be able to order a new one and replace it. Thanks Jay. A good suspension setup will still have good ride quality. Most of the asian coilovers don't have as good ride quality as they should because...

As far as lateral acceleration goes, it's all based on the tires. And also the numbers quoted, at least the higher ones might be instantaneous acceleration rather than the numbers that most people are familiar with as average around a skidpad. So a car that has been quoted to be able to pull...

Best and cheaper don't go together at all. As for the suspension, it depends on what you want to do with the car. I couldn't really tell you much else without any information.