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tried both - no affect. Tonight when I fired it up it was idling smooth around 900. After a short test drive it was back to the normal 1300-1500

no codes; is it normal that when you rev the motor the TEMS lights all come on then turn back off, except for the one on the far left, when it comes back to idle?

yes, it is new. I'll go and check codes again

I just measured the ohms on the coolant temp sensor and it ohms right where it should be on a 60 degree day. I then went and drove it around and where it ohms would correspond on the graph to around 178 degrees which seems about right. The idle is solid at 1300-1500 no variation like before...

not sure on that one. Can you tell me the procedure? I will have to try that tomorrow night. I really appreciate the help - I'm used to mustangs

Yes, as I posted earlier it does respond correctly to putting 12 volts to the different terminals in sequence. Both in and out. Very strange way to operate a idle air valve I think.

Ok, I took it apart - not much gunk. I went ahead and cleaned it up though. I put it back on and the idle stays high at around 1300 rpms but steady

Could this be a timing issue? When I got the car it was not running (needed a turbo rebuild). I'm very impatient when it comes to buying a vehicle not running so I was checking everything out on it. I found the cam timing was retarded a tooth, so I fixed it. Could it be that the ignition...

I pinched off both hoses then tried to fire it up. I have to give it throttle to start and it will not stay running. I'm trying to keep this diag as quiet as possible. When it is running up and down it is very loud.:naughty:

The ISCV is not broke. Its just missing the check valve. The operation of it checks out perfect - all curcuits ohm correctly and the motor moves in and out just like it should.

no idle

That check valve might fix the squeeking sound I hear under boost:icon_bigg

Yes it is in all the way now - really no change. Codes are gone except for the 51 every time I hit the gas. The ICV hose goes to the accordian hose just like factory. Earlier today when I adjusted that screw on the TB in, the idle came down. At least for a little while. Now it is still...

I cleared the codes then refired the car. The idle surging is now faster but the same RPMS. The codes were gone until I hit the throttle - now has a 51. Something with the A/C? Don't really care about A/C

The check valve is missing in the end of the ICV

Ok, it has a 41 and a 34. I just put on the turbo and I did not have a boost gauge that worked on it. I drove it and it boost pretty hard and hit fuel cut - could that be the 34?. I also started it earlier with the tps unplugged, 41?

No, it is just 5/8" heater hose from the tb to the valve covers to the accordian intake tube> i will pull codes in a few minutes

No on pulling codes. Yes, when I screwed in the TB screw it died and would not restart unless I gave it throttle, then it would die when I let off.

I have already posted once that I'm having this issue, but I have done the vacuum check with a smoke machine - no problems found. Gone to the TSRM site and done the voltage test and ohms test on the ICV and the TPS - no problems found. Heres what I did find out though: the min air screw...

Thanks guys, I'll check that link