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I don't think the billet caps are needed if it's just High Rpm you're looking at, mine was around the 550rwhp mark and never showed any signs of Block stress, I know Duane runs stock caps at 1000rwhp. I had a 7M Crank cut down to a Cosworth counterweight profile, this dropped it slightly under...

Worth opening it up and check the diaphragm, knockoffs usually have a cheap nasty one that can be replaced with a genuine part. (only moving part in there so the only thing that might click)

What sort of price? The Toyota Shimless aren't exactly "cheap"

So they're full replacement buckets per my earlier question....

So you add mass to the valvetrain and still run the risk of spitting a stock shim out at high rpm.... not good. As mentioned earlier I ran my 7M to the 8300 hard cut just about every time I drove it without an issue other than the broken spring early on.

Need to find a smarter/friendlier dealer..... Shim Under as far as I know still uses a standard Bucket/Shim? One word of caution though DO NOT CRYO the Shimless buckets... it'll end in tears..

Wonder if the diaphragm is upside down....

Can you post a pic of it mounted and plumbed? Can't think of anything inside it that could click...

Toyota 1SZ-FE 1000cc Echo 13751-23030 5.12 13751-23040 5.14 13751-23050 5.16 13751-23060 5.18 13751-23070 5.20 13751-23080 5.22 13751-23090 5.24 13751-23100 5.26 13751-23110 5.28 13751-23120 5.30 13751-23130 5.32 13751-23140 5.34 13751-23150 5.36...

Comes down to nozzle size which is set by the AR, a 1.06ar T3 GT35R and a 1.06ar T4 GT35R are identical in performance the only difference being the flange shape and bolt holes.

King is an easy read :)

Really enjoyed it Mike :D

STOP doing F&F shifts.... :nono:

I had one in my 86.5 with a Momo wheel, you could look at a late model CC they're on a stalk so might be something you can retro fit.

Finished the "Millennium Trilogy" at 4:30am this morning, about to start on "Down to a Sunless Sea" one I read decades ago and found on e-bay :)

By all means do :) Maybe when I replaced my rheo panel it was the amplifier that fixed my issues the second time, 1st time all I changed was the blue box and that sorted the issue but it may have been something under the dash I moved/reconnected that "fixed" it and nothing to do with the AC amp!

In early cars it's a slider and in late I believe it's a rotary, the control you use to raise/lower the temp.

So you don't engineer in ground loops, don't get whine through the sound system don't ever get into a situation where the pump/s run at less than optimum... :nono:

I had the AC Amplifier fail on my car way back... Blue Box over the glovebox, also had the Temp rheostat fail another time which caused simular symptoms.

Confirmed ;)