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Yeah, Comp springs sort of 'click' into those seats.

Yeah, basically the formula I've seen is, .5hp/cc of injector on E85. Basically 1600cc injectors for 800hp. I'm sure this isn't exact, just a gouge number.

1. I got my steering rack bushings from Ronnie K. He makes bushings for the rack, as well as front and rear subframe bushings. I installed these on my '88. Can't comment as to how they would fit any differently on an '89 2. I have the Diftmotion high pressure hose on my '88 as well. There's no...

Agreed- Not a great design as far as flow rate goes, but I just can't see my aftermarket turbo flow any more than stock, especially with an inline restrictor. And I already have to pull the pan on my 89...I don't wanna do the one on the '88 as well!

Upon further reflection, I am thinking that part of the issue may be the manifold itself. My HKS knockoff sits the turbo lower than stock, and I think that directly affects the height/angle of the drain line. This is probably aggravating the situation.

I would agree, but going to the pan requires me to remove the pan for welding. And since it is the stock location, and a better drain than stock, I don't see why I would have to change drain location. Since there's no deadline on this repair, I'm willing to try a lazy repair first, before trying...

Thanks for your input, guys. Upon disassembly, the front and rear seal rings look great, but I went ahead and ordered a rebuild kit for it, regardless. I will be fitting a transparent -10 silicone drain, and playing with the length to get the best angle I can, to the stock drain location. What I...

Looks good. Any info on what youve done to it? After all, this is a build gallery, not a built gallery. :)

Yeah, still not sure what the issue is. @GC89- The feed line was a 4an, now going to a 3an. Also added a .065" restrictor, but that's the smallest ever recommended for journal turbos.

My '88 project began having an Issue with serious, SERIOUS oil burning. I have a brand new, fully built 7MGTE, zero miles. Car had been started a dozen times, and driven only twice, for a total of about 1/2 mile, to load the piston rings. Later, it began developing the oil burn issue. At first...

Ive never personally seen a knock sensor go bad, but im sure it happens. I missed in the reading: have you tested resistance between your signal wire and ground? AKA- take the plug off each sensor, and probe the terminal inside against a good ground. If there is continuity, that means that...

Was the 3mm head gasket necessary for material removed from the deck surface? I would think if you were to use too thick of a head gasket, it will pull cam timing off slightly, due to the taller height between crank and cams.

Code 52 will cause a limp mode situation, since the knock detect system is compromised, and thus the engine will adjust to avoid potential knock. Not sure if this includes retarded timing, over fueling, or both.

Might want to try posting this in the MkIII "wanted to buy" section instead. As for part number, you can try 781801B040 But it all depends if you are 5 spd or auto. You never said.

I would love to see a bolt-on stock-type lip that extends forward about an inch(not downward). I think it would look good.

These fuel filters do accumulate dirt over time. I cut mine open, which had approximately 50,000 miles. 8ft long, and unfolded, you can see that the outer edges(which are together when the element is folded), are the only remaining full flow section.The non-translucent section is literally caked...

And how long would it take to get a set of say, F/R orange, to the US?

Well, I took an old TEMS switch unit, popped out the guts, glued on a new ABS grainy plastic face, and fitted a rocker switch for my cutout. Looks pretty good, and of course, fills the spot as it should.