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haha, I didn't think it looked right. I'll still probably just use the oil switch location. Find a sender with connection for the gauge and light. ---------- Post added at 05:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:41 PM ---------- That's the accuracy I'm looking for! Thanks!

That block looks different to my 1j, that's a 7m right?

Ok sweet. I wanna keep this thread going, I'd like to hear what other people are getting too.

Thanks man. Where's your sender located? Normal oil light switch place?

So the psi drops when it warms up? Is that because the oil is thicker when it's cold creating higher pressure? I'm looking at VDO gauges to match the rest of mine. All the VDO gauges are either 0-5bar (0-80psi) or 0-10bar (0-150psi).

I'm looking at getting an oil pressure gauge for my 1JZ-GTE but I can't work out (from all my hours in google) what bar gauge to get!? Everything I'm looking at has different answers and no steady results. I will be fitting the sender to where the dummy light switch currently is. If you have an...

Back again... Just a reminder, I'm the guy with the 1J in a Volvo wagon :icon_bigg So, I'm still trying get the car road legal and the final task is the get the Neutral Safety Switch working, along with the reverse lights. It's come down to this, it doesn't even seem like it's connected. Is...

Mine is basically blocked off like that, the tube from the motor and the one from the ISCV are both corked and the unit itself isn't even connected. What did you do with the coolant lines?

It's a '91 240gle Wagon, still a work in progress. These are old photos, the grille is now all black with a Ferrari look alike Volvo "Prancing Moose" Emblem. When it's registered I'm putting some Matte Black 17's on it which I bought from a company in America called iPd (some of you probably...

I'm probably not going to do what you said anyway, thanks for the suggestion though. So, I was just playing with the throttle screw and I set it so it JUST idles without dying when it's cold and in Drive. Now, when it warms up it's a hell of a lot better, no longer near 2,000rpm but right on...

wow you're smart! Ok, I'll look around for a crank sensor. Parts are quite hard to come by around here but I might be lucky... But it still doesn't explain why I'm not getting any voltage from the ISCV plug, I'm still guessing it's not connected to anything.

...well after testing, it turns out my ISCV isn't connected to anything, i couldn't get 12volts from any of the wires. 2 of them should be 12v, i'm guessing one of them is ground...the other 3 could be airflow, temperature and rpm???? @ zoppii: Was yours showing the same symptoms as mine? ie...

...well its actually a '96 chaser motor. What is it actually supposed to connect to, I've got a whole bunch of random plugs not going anywhere. Does anyone know what each wire from the ISCV does?

ok I'll check that, thanks. EDIT: I just tested it and didn't get 12v from any of the wires, do they go straight to the ECU? Are there any other plugs along the way?

I drove for over 2 hours when I bought the car...I do have a feeling it's an electrical problem, the wires are a mess with bad connections everywhere! It's also equipped with a SupraStick comp, don't know it the wires from the ISCV go to that, but that's where the bulk of the mess is.

I'll give it a go but I don't really want to make it idle much lower when it's cold 'cos its already good...just when it's hot. The back pipe on the ISCV is blocked with a rubber cork, same with the tube coming from the engine, what would happen if I was to put a hose between the two?

UPDATE: The ISCV that RockPaperSwoRD sold me didn't solve the problem. Looks like, when the 1j was put into the Volvo they bypassed the Valve, much like many other things on the car... So now I'm out of ideas 'cos I was so sure that was the problem!

Yeah, just stop arguing lol. Anyway, RockPaperSwoRD's selling me an ISCV, if it fixes the problem, this thread will be over....if not, there'll be much more troubleshooting to follow!

Thanks for all your comments. I think it fits rather well, it's still not completely legal, though. I don't know about over there but I have to get an Engineer's Certificate here so I can register it. $700 for a piece of paper! I've had 2 engineers look at it so far and the first one turned it...

It's a motorised valve which goes in or out depending on the car's temperature. When the car's cold it's all the way open to let as much air in as possible to maintain a steady idle. A working ISCV would close up as the car warms up to keep the rpm where it should be. It doesn't have anything to...