Ridiculous 1000HP 7M Street MK3 Build
- Thread starter NegativeGeForce
- Start date
Subscribed from a fellow 7M High HP lover.
Also I would not go with an aluminum driveshaft. Aluminum does not handle high torque, that driveshaft will twist on the line if you ever try to launch the car on a prepped track. I would look into a chromoly driveshaft (lightweight and incredibly strong). I drag race my 7m @ 600+ whp right now, and was concerned with snapping an aluminum driveshaft at this level. I ended up having Aaron @ DM make me a steel version of their 1350 u-joint driveshaft with their R154 hardened slip yoke.
I ended up snapping a pinion before the driveshaft gave out @ 15psi on the launch.
Also I would not go with an aluminum driveshaft. Aluminum does not handle high torque, that driveshaft will twist on the line if you ever try to launch the car on a prepped track. I would look into a chromoly driveshaft (lightweight and incredibly strong). I drag race my 7m @ 600+ whp right now, and was concerned with snapping an aluminum driveshaft at this level. I ended up having Aaron @ DM make me a steel version of their 1350 u-joint driveshaft with their R154 hardened slip yoke.
I ended up snapping a pinion before the driveshaft gave out @ 15psi on the launch.
IJ.;1961461 said:
That's actually a bottle neck area of the 7M head. It narrows down to about 20mm there. I took enough out to open it up to 27.5mm. I have done some researching and alot of guys get nice flow #'s from taking those bosses off. I WILL be keeping the guide bosses on the exhaust side though because those exhaust valves will be getting really hot and I know ill need as much meat there as possible to keep them cool. I do intend to keep the full length of the valve guide though. I want these valves to actually last.
some nice cross section images of the 7mgte head here (http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/63223-7m-head-cross-section.html)
mark1987supra;1961491 said:
Yeah you bring up some good points. I am not sure if I will be drag racing the car much but I might consider the chromoly instead.
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NegativeGeForce;1961433 said:
I wouldn't over look this setup if I were you.
We have had high boost 7ms here locally lift the head, not because the arps, but the head it self gets annealed when they over heat and becomes gummy. The head lifts right through the washer. The arp studs never gets longer to indicate it has Been stretched.
To fix the problem we milled the washer face with a counter bore to use the special arp washers that are counter stepped. Since then we've gotten it to go 36psi with no lifting issue
Albert;1965432 said:
Hmm, that's actually a good idea...essentially creating a larger surface area for the nut to clamp down on and prevent aluminum from collapsing around the stud. I will ask the local head specialist here if he can do this. Thanks for the tip.
Are these the inserts? 1/2" would be pretty close to the stock ID of the head bolt holes.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-200-8574
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Interesting build, my old injectors fuel rail and AEM EMS are all up for sale on SF from the current owner, all of which would support your 1000hp goals.
-Sean
-Sean
NegativeGeForce;1965704 said:
This thread has more details on this mod including a tool you can borrow to ream the bolt holes.
.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?683040-finally-an-answer-to-the-7m-head-gasket-issue
3p141592654;1967257 said:
Yea thanks I ended up finding that thread earlier and read through it. I will be taking my head this morning to the machine shop to see if they can install the inserts among other things. I finally finished porting and polishing the head and will be getting all the machine work done hopefully this week. I will make sure to post an update when I get the head back.
Im also planning to take my shortblock to tampa engine lab soon. I just got my pauter rods fitted with arp 625 custom age fasteners.
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 4
Subscribed. Long live the 7M. This is going to be fun to watch thanks for keeping us all updated. Take more pictures for us too.
I needed a break from the car and work 
. Just got back from vacation in Amsterdam and Denmark. Been there for the last 2 weeks. I did drop the head off at Tampa Engine Lab before I left. They wanted $1300 in just labor for everything I asked . That's the cost of a brand new cylinder head from Toyota, lol. I will give an update when it's done.
FYI, I was in Denmark for a virtual 24hr of Lemans race and my team won. http://www.gtr24h.com/results/
I look like shit cuz I caught a bug there and was sick as a dog, but I powered through the race and faced almost certain death afterwards.
My shit eating grin after the win
Satellite racing
Ceremony
The rig we borrowed and won the race with
Victory drinks
. Just got back from vacation in Amsterdam and Denmark. Been there for the last 2 weeks. I did drop the head off at Tampa Engine Lab before I left. They wanted $1300 in just labor for everything I asked . That's the cost of a brand new cylinder head from Toyota, lol. I will give an update when it's done.FYI, I was in Denmark for a virtual 24hr of Lemans race and my team won. http://www.gtr24h.com/results/
I look like shit cuz I caught a bug there and was sick as a dog, but I powered through the race and faced almost certain death afterwards.
My shit eating grin after the win
Satellite racing
Ceremony
The rig we borrowed and won the race with
Victory drinks
Got an update from engine lab. They are done with the head. Just adjusting valve lash now. They ended up having to heat straightening the head as the cam saddles were warped by .006" then line hone to make the cam journals round again. They are very thorough. More info when I get the head back.
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
NegativeGeForce;1961502 said:That's actually a bottle neck area of the 7M head. It narrows down to about 20mm there. I took enough out to open it up to 27.5mm. I have done some researching and alot of guys get nice flow #'s from taking those bosses off. I WILL be keeping the guide bosses on the exhaust side though because those exhaust valves will be getting really hot and I know ill need as much meat there as possible to keep them cool. I do intend to keep the full length of the valve guide though. I want these valves to actually last.
some nice cross section images of the 7mgte head here (http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/63223-7m-head-cross-section.html)
Yeah you bring up some good points. I am not sure if I will be drag racing the car much but I might consider the chromoly instead.
better answer would have been "because race car"
but you should do the same thing I am doing and coat the chamber and the valves heads and margin the company here says it will not come off the valve still debating on the valve part thou
only reason for this alot of cooling meat has bean removed and makes it harder for the cooling jackets to suck up the head from the guide (Good thing you are getting bronze gudies because at these temps it be like getting you sucked off from girl with braces)
my head is the same way but ported a bit different in the intake
Albert;1973651 said:
if they did it right he should not have an issue
the line hone is kinda creepy imagine what the face of the head was like before if one is 6 would hate to see the other side pending how it was warp
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