Y-Pipe Install

[viperkillertt]

I was told by a ton of people to get an y-pipe and that it would be a pretty simple install. Well the engine is out, but it doesn't seem that easy. I thought it was a very quick swap, but i am finding studs instead of bolts meaning i need to remove the whole turbo setup. Does anyone know the order and maybe a walkthrough for installing a y-pipe?

 

[OneJoeZee]

You don't have to remove everything but at least the front turbo.

With the engine out of the car, removing the turbos is easy.

 

[AF1JZ]

Do some searching on here....Here is a quote from a VERY recent thread by the resident expert on 1jz twins.

I'm no expert, just had to do it like 4 times and will have to do so for a 5th(I think, lost count) this week when my Blitz turbos is ready to go back in. :/

The last time, I was lazy and just did it quick and dirty and I have a big exhaust leak but I don't care since they're coming back off soon anyway.:biglaugh:



Ok, a few things that will make your life easier.

1. Don't try to take off the rear intake pipe. You don't need to. The bolts are hard to get to and the pipe really isn't in the way of anything.

2. Leave the oil lines on. Just undo them from the block. That's what I did. Didn't bother to take them off the turbos.

3. It will probably be helpful for you to take some of the studs out of the exhaust sides of the turbos. The ones connecting to the ypipe and the ones connecting to the manifold. Makes it a little easier with some of them out of the way. Loosen up all the nuts holding the turbos to the manifold to the turbo

4. Some people say pull the turbos off as one piece but I took off the front one and then the 2nd one. Leave the manifolds on the head. They don't need to come off but it might help to loosen them a little just to give you some slack. Don't forget to tighten them though. Some of the manifold nuts are hard to get at once you mount the turbos back on and if you don't have the right tools to get to them, you'll have an exhaust leak at the manifold. Happened to me... Was too lazy to take the turbos completely off again to fix it.

5. Don't forget to put the gaskets back on between the turbos and ypipe. I forgot and had to loosen everything up and take the front turbo back off again just to put the gaskets in there. It sucked.

6. Don't forget to tighten all the m

um, that's all that comes to me off the top of my head.


http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35301

Check out this thread. It's a little cheesy, I know... but some of the pics might help you see what's going on and give you a little guide.

 

[speed]

I thought mine was pretty easy to install.. only thing is the flange had two holes that weren't spot on, I had to bore them out and then use washers to bolt it down.

 

[viperkillertt]

Do some searching on here....Here is a quote from a VERY recent thread by the resident expert on 1jz twins.

umm, thanks! How on earth do you remove studs?that would make my life a million times easier!

 

[annoyingrob]

I find that if you put some penetrating lube on on the base of the stud, and NONE on the nut, you can remove the nut and stud as one.

 

[viperkillertt]

I find that if you put some penetrating lube on on the base of the stud, and NONE on the nut, you can remove the nut and stud as one.

Ok, so for someone who has already removed the nutz, what would you suggest? Also the nutz came off like super easily. Only one was a challenge. they were almost hand tightened.

 

[annoyingrob]

Easy, screw two nuts back on, then screw the top one tight against the bottom one, then use the bottom nut to unscrew the stud.

If that doesn't work, I would suggest vice grips around the MIDDLE of the stud. That way, you'll only damage unimportant threads.

 

[viperkillertt]

Easy, screw two nuts back on, then screw the top one tight against the bottom one, then use the bottom nut to unscrew the stud.

If that doesn't work, I would suggest vice grips around the MIDDLE of the stud. That way, you'll only damage unimportant threads.

Oh dude! Thanks, I knew i had done that many times! I totally forgot! you are awesome and you just saved me a fricken ton of time!!! So yeah, why do people take the turbos to do this then? Well thanks again, you rock! TTFN

 

[viperkillertt]

Easy, screw two nuts back on, then screw the top one tight against the bottom one, then use the bottom nut to unscrew the stud.

If that doesn't work, I would suggest vice grips around the MIDDLE of the stud. That way, you'll only damage unimportant threads.

I might just go and do the job now, now that you reminded me how to do it

 

[viperkillertt]

I thought i would add this for future people. I found this on a random website. I would have loved to know this the other day.

Studs
Before trying anything else, give the stud a few good whacks with a soft hammer.

I don't usually plug brands, but the best tool I've come across for the removal of studs is the Sears Craftsman eccentric stud removal tool. This tool comprises a rotating disk and a tool body. The tool body is placed over the stud, and a 1/2" drive socket handle is used to turn the whole tool. The eccentric disk within the tool locks the tool onto the stud. Once locked, the further turns of the socket handle turn the stud. I have found that once the stud moves, the tool should be backed off and the process restarted or you end up with the stud stuck within the tool! This tool combined with a 3' breaker bar and an initial heat treatment has not failed me to date on studs which are in reasonable condition.

If you do not have such a tool and want to reuse the stud, locate two substantial nuts which will fit on the stud. Screw the first on by hand leaving enough threads exposed for the second. Then screw on the second. Apply a spanner/wrench to each. Twist the bottom nut counter-clockwise (upwards) and the top nut clockwise (downwards) until they lock together and cannot be turned further. Now use a spanner/wrench on the bottom nut to twist out the stud.