8 Ignition outputs (Current software release allows for 4)
I dont think its currently full sequential If it is thats good!
You should see a shielded wire thick it will have 3-4 wires in it
Black or blue wire is ground it goes to the negative terminal on the crank sensor & splices into the negative terminal at either cam sensor you pick. the difference between them is the cam pick up sensors are 180° out from each other, meaning if you pick the wrong one and the firing order is normaly 1,2,3,4,5,6 it will now work on 4,5,6,1,2,3 but for JZ it would look like 1,5,3,6,2,4 but if your 180° out and picked the wrong sync sensor just make it 6,2,4,1,5,3.
The red wire is a power supply wire un-neaded unless you want it for a hall effect sensor not oem sensors.
The yellow wire goes to the sync sensor i believe its the rear cam sensor is TDC sensor it doesnt matter even if you pick the wrong one just sync the firing order 180° out & the injectors 180° out.
The Green wire goes to the trigger gear at the bottom of the crank.
24 teeth because the bottom trigger will rotate 2 cycles since its a four stroke engine you will see 24 teeth on the trigger meantime cams rotate half the speed so you will see 1 sync pulse line up every 24 teeth.
Now here is how you wire the cam gear up cut into the thick shielded wire just removing part of the insulation exposing the shield spread the shield out and try to get a good 1" of yellow wire coming out if you do this on the field harness right at the cam sensor you will be lucky you only really need to shield up to the last inch of wire to eliminate noise if you do have noise its your splice is weak or just go ahead and slide a shield braid over it.
also you want to find the black or blue wire remove the insulation and solder/splice the negative sync sensor wire into it so your negative wire on your synce sensor make sure it reaches the loom and is a good inch longer.
after soldering the ground wire isolate it from the shield wire with electrical tape so you dont create inner dielectric capacitance or EMI thats when you ground the shielding on both ends turing the shield into a capacitor instead of shield.
Now if your just building a jumper harness you dont need to mess with shields too much just depends on amount of exposed wiring though. but if its really short just source the ecu connector and plug into the ecu since it looks like you have to batchfire the ignition due to what the 8860 stinger manuel says & due to software it is not a fully functioning sequential solution.
The rest of the wire run the whole thing over to the crank signal wire and splice the green in there.
