Wilwood Front Brake Install instructions (Tons of Pics)

[arz]

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR SUPRA MKIII 13 INCH WILWOOD FRONT BRAKE KIT.

When you receive your kit open it to inspect the contents of the kit. In the inside the main box you should find two boxes, inside the top box you should have 3 Wilwood boxes, 2 Caliper boxes and 1 Brake Pad box. Each caliper box contains a complete set of left components or right components. The left caliper bracket is packaged with the left caliper. The right caliper bracket is packaged with the right caliper.

Inside each Caliper box should be a Caliper, a Brake line, and a Caliper bracket.

Attached to each Brake line should be the Brake line Adapter, and a Brake line Clamp.

Attached to each Caliper Adapter Bracket should be all the required fasteners to attach the caliper bracket to the Spindle/Up-right
and all the fasteners to attach the calipers to the bracket.

All of the fasteners installed on the caliper bracket are installed in the sequence they will be installed on the vehicle. DO NOT
remove them until you are ready to install them on the vehicle.

Here are all the parts for the complete front 13 inch Wilwood front brake kit. 01



The first order of business is to remove the front wheels. If you need any assistance on where to lift from or where to place the
jack stands refer to the TSRM. If you were ever going to clean detail the fenderwell this would be the time to do it. If you plan
to detail the fenderwell area after the kit is installed I would recommend removing the caliper from the spindle and placing it in a garbage/big ziplock bag and zip tieing it out of the way (so as not to scratch it). Also remove the rotor and set aside. Do not use Castrol Superclean in the purple bottle, it has a chemical that attacks aluminum. Also don’t use Eagle 1 mag cleaner made for open pore aluminum (like
Centerline wheels).

Once you have removed the wheels and supported the vehicle properly it should look like this. 02



Remove the brake from the spindle and let it hang from the brake line. You won’t break the brake line apart until you have almost
all of the parts installed on each corner you are replacing. 03



Remove the front rotor hat from the spindle, notice the 2 threaded holes on the stock rotor hat these are used to help remove the
rotor from the hub. Refer to the TSRM if your not familiar with this procedure.

DO NOT POUND OR STRIKE THE WHEEL MOUNTING SURFACE EVER.

Once the rotor and caliper have been removed you have some cleaning to do. Use a wire brush or any means possible to remove any rust or scale from the surface that the new rotor hat will mount to. This cleaning is Critical to a true running rotor.

I use a wire brush on a die grinder. MAKE SURE TO USE SAFETY GLASSES A FACE SHIELD AND LEATHER GLOVES. My bare hand is only holding the
tool for photographic purposes. If you don’t have experience using these tools get someone that does, or pay a professional to
install these brakes. 04



Leaving the lug nuts installed is a good way to insure you don’t damage the threads during this operation.

After the mounting surface and the outside diameter of hub mounting surface is clean it should look like this. 05



Remember the rotor hat is hubcentric cleaning that hub/center outside diameter is critical to runout.

THIS STEP IS OPTIONAL, YOU CAN SKIP THIS STEP IF YOU DO NOT WISH TO REMOVE THE DUST COVER ON AN ABS VEHICLE!!!

Next you will remove the rotor dust cover. There are several ways to do this I will cover a few of them
The most difficult and potentially damaging (to the wheel bearings) is to remove the nut for the hub on the back (in board) side of
the spindle. This is the riskiest option, you risk getting dirt in the bearings, you risk damaging the threads, and you risk over
or under torqueing the bearings. It is an option but I do not recommend it. 06, 07, 08, 09









The options I DO recommend will depend on if you have ABS or not. If you have ABS I recommend trimming only the outer dust shield
off of the dust cover assembly ( I say assembly because it is multiple pieces welded together). You can use common aviation tin
snips. Make sure to finish the edges with a file to remove any sharp edges and burrs (prime and paint as necessary). The photo
below shows a non ABS spindle. Notice you can see the fasteners holding the dust cover to the spindle. On an ABS vehicle, the ABS
trigger ring obscures these fasteners and any attempt to gain access to these fasteners using tin/aviation snips risks damaging
that trigger ring. 10, 101


Here is an ABS spindle after removal of the dust cover. You can trim it right down to the outside diameter of the inside flange.



On a non ABS vehicle I recommend loosening these fasteners and trimming a portion of the center out so that the complete dust cover
can be removed. This will avoid tampering with a perfectly good wheel bearing assembly.

In the first photos I snip the inner ring on each side of the fasteners (to provide clearance for the wrench to gain access to the
head of the bolts). Next I use a drift or punch to knock back the inner ring of the dust cover (in front of the fasteners only).
11, 12





Next I loosen and remove the fasteners holding the dust cover on. Once the dust cover is free I use the snips once again to make a
big opening in the center diameter to slide the dust cover off of the spindle.13,14,





I snip high and low, and the cover comes right off. 15,16,





Next you will need to clean and wire brush the mounting surfaces of the Toyota caliper ears. 17,18





I recommend cleaning the whole spindle but if your pressed for time at least make sure you clean these 3 areas. Again if your not
familiar or not comfortable using these tools please have a professional perform this installation. This portion of the casting
interferes slightly with the installation of your new brake caliper. You will need to clearance this portion of the casting. 19,

 

[Ckanderson]

Anyways heres part 2 I will probably need to get in there and edit some line spaces into there as my text editor or this site takes some of them out


The removal of material required is so slight that a basic hand file will do the trick.



Below I will show many other tools that can be used for the job. Please, if your not comfortable with any portion of this install
please have a professional do it.

Die grinder ,21



Soft disc or flapper wheel, 22, 23





Flapper wheel on a die grinder 24



Barrel sander on a die grinder 25



Stone on a die grinder 26



Carbide burr 27



Scotch lock/quik lock sanding disc. 28



I ended up using a Die Grinder wheel 29



The die grinder is one of my favorite tools I am very comfortable with it. Here is how it should look when your finished. You do
not need to remove a ton of material as you can see. You might need to remove some of the “point”of this portion of the casting to
make room for the flat washer up against the caliper. 30, 31






Test fit your parts several times to get a good idea of the minimum material you need to remove to make the install of the calipers
go smoothly. Remember the fasteners on the caliper brackets are installed in the order they are installed.
If you haven’t removed the caliper brackets from their respective boxes they will be installed with the proper left and right
caliper. Identify the left and right caliper brackets and place them at their respective corners. An easy way to identify the
brackets is to hold them like a pistol the bottom hole will not have a threaded insert and the top or forwards hole will. The
threaded inserts go outboard on the vehicle. The caliper bracket in the photo below is for the front right caliper. 32



Remove all the fasteners from one caliper bracket, except the 12mm Socket head cap screws (or allen bolt). The metric fasteners
have a silver/bright zinc plated nut and washer. The 12 mm allen bolt head should have a flat washer between it and the aluminum
caliper bracket. This is a standard flat washer as shown in the picture above.
Notice the order of the fasteners below. The lock washer goes against the cast Toyota caliper ear followed by the 12mm nut.
Torque these fasteners to Toyota factory specifications. It might be necessary to hold the allen head bolt still while torqueing
the inside nut.
DO NOT TORQUE THE ALLEN HEAD BOLT WHILE HOLDING THE NUT IN PLACE. 33



While installing the caliper bracket apply pressure outward (radially), notice the tip of my finger prying outward. This caliper
bracket was designed to maintain the maximum pad rotor interface with the closest of build tolerances. 34



Below is the order the fasteners should be installed fastening the caliper to the caliper bracket.
Take care to NEVER install a split locking washer against any aluminum part. 35



Sometimes I ship the kit with a precision shim washer. If you need to shim the caliper inboard, that washer will be installed
between the caliper and the caliper bracket. If you need to shim the caliper outboard you need to place that shim between the
caliper bracket and the Toyota caliper ears.

Next you will slide the Rotor hat on the hub. Make sure there are no dings, imperfections, rust, or dirt in between the rotor hat
and the mounting surface. This will surely affect the lateral runout. Inspect and clean these surfaces as necessary.

MAKE SURE TO CLEAN BRAKEING SURFACES WITH BRAKE CLEANER. The rotors are shipped with oil on them to inhibit rust, you do not want
this oil on your pads. Clean as best as possible but the rest of the oils will burn off during the bedding process.

Make sure to install the rotors on the proper sides. A rotor is a centrifugal pump, they can only be run one direction or they
will stall. If you run the rotors backwards it won’t pump air from the hub to the wheel. Chances are that you would only notice a
problem if you were racing them but go ahead and install them on the proper corners. The front rotors have an arrow on the outside
that makes it unmistakable. 36



With the rotor installed use 2-3 lug nuts to secure the rotor against the hub mounting surface. This will keep the rotor true
while you bleed the brakes and make sliding the caliper over the rotor easier.
Install the brake pads in each caliper, they are the same pad in all four positions and do not have a front/back or
inboard/outboard designation.
Install the Brake line fitting (shown below) in the caliper using Teflon tape. Take care to not let the Teflon tape overlap the
installed threads when installed “inside” the caliper. Do not torque this adapter into the caliper until it stops. This is an NPT
thread with a slight taper and is designed to seal after approximately half of the available threads are engaged. If you need to
ask me how tight to make this fitting you should pay a professional to install this kit. 37,38

 

[Ckanderson]

Next you can mount the caliper on the bracket install the fasteners in the caliper snugly, make sure the 3 lugnuts are holding the
rotor to the mounting surface. Check that there isn’t any undue resistance to rotating the rotor thru the pads. Torque the
caliper mounting bolts to factory Toyota specs.
Here you can do one of two things.
1. Install the brake line at the body/chassis and caliper.
2. Move on to the next side and complete all the same steps up to this point
I recommend moving on to the other side and complete all the same steps up to this same point.
Next you will break the existing brake line loose and install it, in place of the factory brake line. Again if you need to ask how
this is done, you should pay a professional to install this kit. Notice that if you remove the factory Toyota cir clips (e clips)
from the factory brake line, you can install them in the new brake line to secure it in the factory location. In some cases you
will need to install both cir clips in the same groove to maintain the stock brake line retention to properly secure the brake
line. You can locate the new line off of the bottom of the short rubber hose as in the photo on the left or you can install it
directly to the hardline and run it directly to the caliper. In the scenario on the right you do not use the clamp to route the
brake line forward to the factory brake line clamping location. 39, 40





I have included a brake line retainer if you want to maintain the factory brake line routing shown in the photo
below. You can not use this routing and attach directly to the hardline. In either case you NEED to install 2 of the factory cir
clips as shown in the photo above on the left. 42



Once the brake lines are installed the only other unique thing about bleeding these calipers is the fact that there are 2 channels
per caliper.
Bleed the inboard channel first. Then bleed the outboard channel, then repeat one more time. I use a clear piece of vinyl/nylon
hose (easy to find at Home Depot) with an inside diameter that will fit snugly on the bleeder and rout it into an empty clear
container.
NOTICE THE BLEED SCREW IS ¼ INCH!!!! TREAT IT AS SUCH.
Hold your 1/4 inch wrench half way up with 3 fingers. It is very easy to over-torque or break this bleeder treat it gently!!!
Even if you are not installing the Rear Big Brake Kit it is a good time to flush the old fluid out and bleed the rears also.
Once you are confident you have all of the brakes completely bled, install your wheels and test the brake pedal before you roll 1
foot. If the pedal height or firmness is inconsistent, remove the wheels and look for leaks.
Treat the first test drive with the utmost care. Make sure the brakes work satisfactorily before you perform the bedding
procedure.
After the first 100-200 miles remove the wheels and check all fittings for leaks and check all fasteners for signs of loosening, or
improper torque.
After the bed in procedure it is common to see a ring of oil (on the inside of the wheel and caliper bridge) that has been heated
and flung out of the rotor vents. This is normal and will wash off with soap and water.
The Rotors are cast iron and not plated I have had many customers paint the non braking surfaces if they were concerned with
superficial rusting. I recommend leaving the rotor hats installed and taping them off so as not to disturb the mounting surface
between the rotor and the rotor hat.
Thank you again for your interest in our products. Please contact us if you have any questions about the installation and use of
our products.
ArizonaPerformance@cox.net
Thanks.
Andrew Zimmerle