While valve covers are off, should I retorque my ARPs?

[Red Dragon]

Hey everyone,

Wondering if I should retorque my ARP bolts while I have my valve covers off for coating? They have been on there for about 4-ish years and 20k miles with an HKS MHG in there. I'm thinking no, but I guess it couldn't hurt right, assuming I don't somehow loosen one before retorque, and that I make sure and do it in the right order, right? Anyone ever heard of ARP hardware losing tension?

thanks

p.s., anything else I should do while they are off??

 

[GrimJack]

I don't think it can hurt. In the correct order, uncrack the first one, retorque to spec, then move to the next one, and so on until you are finished with the entire order.

 

[Red Dragon]

I don't think it can hurt. In the correct order, uncrack the first one, retorque to spec, then move to the next one, and so on until you are finished with the entire order.

wait, so you are suggesting I DO loosen the bolts before I retorque them, can't this potentially fark everything up by recompressing the HG?

 

[GrimJack]

Not going to hurt a metal headgasket.

Without cracking them back first, it's impossible to get an accurate torque reading.

 

[Jason T]

Anyone ever heard of ARP hardware losing tension?

Bolts yes :3d_frown:

Studs no

 

[bluepearl]

GrimJack is correct, but I say 4 years and 20K, Don't look for trouble. It's apparent you're motor likes things just the way they are. If the gasket is on it's way out, retourqing may accelerate the problem. JMHO

 

[bluepearl]

Bolts yes :3d_frown:

Studs no

My headbolts went thru hundreds of heat cycles. ARP with toyota headgasket @ 75. None were loose. FWIW

 

[Jason T]

My headbolts went thru hundreds of heat cycles. ARP with toyota headgasket @ 75. None were loose. FWIW

Only one was loose at 1000km retourqe

Guess were the gasket went after 5,000kms

Now changing to studs on rebuilt boottom end

Should have resurfaced the block last time :cry:

Head was pitted around this loose bolt
Head is at oh puck this needs to be resurfaced stage

 

[IJ.]

Top Left of the triangle cutout looks like a crack?

 

[shaeff]

Not going to hurt a metal headgasket.

Without cracking them back first, it's impossible to get an accurate torque reading.

yes, there was just a large discussion about this on SF, and several people didnt want to believe me...

in order to re-torque, you MUST crack it loose, otherwise you wont be able to overcome the friction of the head when you put your torque wrench on there. it'll just click right away.

(unless they're uber loose, in which case your SOL anyway...)

-shaeff

 

[Shytheed Dumas]

Not going to hurt a metal headgasket.

Without cracking them back first, it's impossible to get an accurate torque reading.

What about a Toyota head gasket? Is it safe - or recommended - to retorque, or is that best left for the metal gaskets?

 

[GrimJack]

What about a Toyota head gasket? Is it safe - or recommended - to retorque, or is that best left for the metal gaskets?

This is an endlessly debated subject, with no clear answer. In short, either do it or don't, and you may get lucky either way. And you may be unlucky.

 

[IJ.]

Straight from Cometic's info Pdf!

"Head Gasket Torque Procedure
If you are using studs or head bolts, torque hardware to the manufacturers specification. Fasteners works like a springs and must
have proper Torque or Stretch applied to carry the correct amount of clamp force. Also use the proper lube or thread sealer for the job.
All fasteners must be final torqued before thread sealant cures to achieve proper torque.
Torque the fasteners in the correct sequence. It is critical to follow manufacturers torque sequence to apply clamp force evenly.
A smooth continuous motion is important for every torque sequence. Re-torque is not necessary unless using hardware that has not
been heat cycled."