Looking to get rid of the piggy back system and go standalone this year and was wondering if anyone can offer some tips of which EMS system to use. I know there's lots of different kind out there, but which one works best for the 7mgte and plug and play for the gray ecu plugs. I have a 90 toyota supra with the 7mgte engine. Basic bolts on. T70 turbo charger, 550 cc injectors, walbro fuel pump, tial wastegate, hks bov, lexus afm, and full intercooler kit.. I am not familiar with ems standalone, but would it eliminate the need for the lexus afm? Any tips and suggestions is much appreciated.. Thanks!
Which EMS standalone to use?
- Thread starter bxiong17
- Start date
Plug and play? There's none really, except perhaps the AEM i believe.
I think the DIY-PNP plugs straight in as well, but doesn't 'play' right out of the gate.
I think the DIY-PNP plugs straight in as well, but doesn't 'play' right out of the gate.
Aem has prolly the only real true plug and play.
Megasquirt pnp maybe too.
Megasquirt 3 and ms3 pro are the cheapest tho require some wiring. Can do a whole new harness or make a patch harness
Megasquirt pnp maybe too.
Megasquirt 3 and ms3 pro are the cheapest tho require some wiring. Can do a whole new harness or make a patch harness
You would want the 6860.
Personally if rather have megasquirt proEFI or aem before stinger. Motec is king but it's $$$$.
Personally if rather have megasquirt proEFI or aem before stinger. Motec is king but it's $$$$.
It is not what you like. It is what your tuner likes OR what learning curve it has.
As an example.
MoTeC is where the buck stops but the learning curve for that is huge.
4d tables.
Input assignments
remote boxes and how they communicate with the ECU.
MoTeC is KING because it is so silly flexible.
Just an EMS..done
EMS plus chat with a Power distribution block and outputs are turned off and on based on ECU OR Dash inputs... you got it!
EMS plus loggings of ECU + Dash and add the Power outputs and there states, amperage draw and any fault conditions... please may I have some more.
That is why MoTeC is where it is at. Only thing that MIGHT be considered better than MoTeC for the professional race teams.. Bosch Motorsports MS series ECU or Magnetti Marelli. But you are talking up in the 30k for the EMS alone. No taking into account licensing, options, accessories, sensors etc. Easy to rack up 100k in just electronics.
http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/content/language2/html/2953.htm
So what is your poison?
As an example.
MoTeC is where the buck stops but the learning curve for that is huge.
4d tables.
Input assignments
remote boxes and how they communicate with the ECU.
MoTeC is KING because it is so silly flexible.
Just an EMS..done
EMS plus chat with a Power distribution block and outputs are turned off and on based on ECU OR Dash inputs... you got it!
EMS plus loggings of ECU + Dash and add the Power outputs and there states, amperage draw and any fault conditions... please may I have some more.
That is why MoTeC is where it is at. Only thing that MIGHT be considered better than MoTeC for the professional race teams.. Bosch Motorsports MS series ECU or Magnetti Marelli. But you are talking up in the 30k for the EMS alone. No taking into account licensing, options, accessories, sensors etc. Easy to rack up 100k in just electronics.
http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/content/language2/html/2953.htm
So what is your poison?
It doesn't matter what EMS *WE* like. It matters what EMS your tuner likes. Buy what fits your needs that your tuner is intimately familiar with.
Would a MoTec ecu be able to run my auto trans as well? Looking towards the future and I want an all-in-one ecu to get the most out of my engine/trans, with options to control other aspects of the vehicle depending on what's happening with the engine
Motec can do damn near anything, as long as you're willing to spend more on the ECU than you have on the car.
QWIKSTRIKE
475rwhp459torq an climbin
I would forgo anything plug and play unless you have a new stock harness. Old cracked, frayed wires won't help you realize your goals.
yhatzee89;1972363 said:
Not to start the MoTeC vs ProEFI debate up here, but I'm wiring my '87 auto up to the ProEFI128, it's very easy.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=106
There are three solenoids we need to control: S1, S2 and SL. S1/S2 dictate the four gears and SL is the lockup solenoid. Wire up some automotive/ice cube relays to deliver fused 12V to those wires (ProEFI pulls to ground, so you'll run power to the coil side of the relay and the ground will go to the ProEFI) and your tuner will do the rest.
You can take the ECT out of the car after this, no need for it. If you have ABS or intend on keeping it be sure to keep those wires intact.
Tuner will set it up so that ignition will be advanced in between gear shifts to stave off clutch death etc, upshift/downshift will be mapped in vs wheel speed and TPS just as the ECT does it except you can raise shift points to take advantage of better breathing cams, that sort of stuff.
I chose to go megasquirt because I have more time than money right now and you really can't beat all the options without a few extra grand to blow
Also iirc they have a diy_auto trans computer as well
Also iirc they have a diy_auto trans computer as well
I have an EMS 8860 and it works great and havnt had really any troubles with it.
BUT, if i was doing it over again, i would buy something that is made in USA. The only reason i say this is because if i ever have a problem with my 8860, i need to spend $200+ just for the shipping to get it to, and from Australia.
Looking back, or if i were buying something new, I would go ProEFI. It seems to have a good following, good tech support, and on top of that, if i need to ship it to them for any reason itll only cost me about $20 bucks.
Nothing wrong with my 8860, other then that its support team is in Australia.
BUT, if i was doing it over again, i would buy something that is made in USA. The only reason i say this is because if i ever have a problem with my 8860, i need to spend $200+ just for the shipping to get it to, and from Australia.
Looking back, or if i were buying something new, I would go ProEFI. It seems to have a good following, good tech support, and on top of that, if i need to ship it to them for any reason itll only cost me about $20 bucks.
Nothing wrong with my 8860, other then that its support team is in Australia.