WHICH CLUTCH?? NEED IT FAST!

huntin5L

Member
Mar 31, 2005
657
0
16
Niles, IL
I have an 89 turbo and the clutch is fried i think. It was fine this morning, but when i went to go to lunch it kept getting easier and easier to push in. The grab is real close to the floor and so easy to push in to the grab it isn't even funny, it seems broken up until the grab. But i haven't seen it slip yet. Who know where to get a decently priced clutch? And also a clutch that will support about 350-400whp?
 

bwest

Drafting, not tailgating
May 18, 2005
502
0
0
HippieTown, CA
a few things:

clutches are measured by torque output, not HP (though you usually can do the math to figure this out)

check mkiiitech.org for Dr. J's info on pressure plates and clutch discs

if all else fails, contact Andy at SBC. Good clutches, good people, good prices.
 

CPT Furious

Now MAJ FURY!
Mar 30, 2005
607
0
0
KDOV
Centerforce Dual Friction II. Held 484 rwhp and lasted 50,000 miles for me with proper break in. Pulled it out and was still fine. Didn't reuse because I was looking to exceed 600 rwhp at the time.

I shoulda kept it... :)
 

huntin5L

Member
Mar 31, 2005
657
0
16
Niles, IL
im not sure, it was weird, i have had a clutch go out on me before and it didn't feel the same. You could be right, i don't know what it is. When i push in the clutch it feels broken, way easier than a brand new clutch. The grab is maybe an inch or so off the floor. The funny thing is, is that it was fine this morning.
 
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CPT Furious

Now MAJ FURY!
Mar 30, 2005
607
0
0
KDOV
The CF DF II was even smoother than stock and very livable for every driving. Pedal pressure even felt a little less than stock, but would grip really well!
 

huntin5L

Member
Mar 31, 2005
657
0
16
Niles, IL
CPT Furious said:
The CF DF II was even smoother than stock and very livable for every driving. Pedal pressure even felt a little less than stock, but would grip really well!


Well turns out i do not need a clutch yet. I was driving home and it kept getting worse. My clutch was to the floor and struggling a tad to get into gear. So i stopped at a gas station and bought some brake fluid, because there was nothing in my resoviour. I then took off the cap and noticed that little rubber piece inside was stuck to the bottom, i put the rubber cap back on the resoviour and pushed on the cap, because the cap had a little primer button on top, at least that is what i think it is. I pushed down like 4 or 5 times and that rubber part came out from the bottom and the resoviour filled. I got back in my car and sure enough my clutch was fine. I don't know how this happened, unless im getting air in the line or something.
 

aye mate

Hiatus over.
Mar 30, 2005
1,926
0
0
Maryland
Check the rubber line on the clutch slave cylinder down on the drivers side of the trans. Make sure its not cracked and the fittings are tight. HTH
 

drjonez

Supramania Contributor
Mar 31, 2005
3,061
0
0
18
the motor city
www.4cefed.com
a few things-

your problem sounds related to the hydraulic system, not the clutch/PP....check those first, far cheaper and easier to fix.

as for centerforce, they suck.....run away, far away....
 

huntin5L

Member
Mar 31, 2005
657
0
16
Niles, IL
yeah my brothers friend knows the owner well at sound performance and he said get either an rps or a spec. I will probably go that route when i decide to go for a new clutch.
 

oscolivar1

Supraism
Feb 8, 2006
1,000
0
0
37
Virginia beach
CPT Furious said:
DO NOT GET THE 3200 lb. PRESSURE PLATE! You will hate your car if you do...I know!!! :)


hmm i almost got this one...
i have the ACT clutch now, but not installed.
what was wrong with rps 3200 lb PP???
what happened to you?
 

Knight_MKIII

Big Bollas
Dec 3, 2005
30
0
0
39
Orlando, FL
I originally bought the Spec Stage 3, mounted it, stayed mounted for about 3 months then bought the RPS Max with the 3200 lbs. the RPS hold a lot more TQ (I believe rated to 625) which is around my goal, the spec was 520 tq but i believe it maxed out at 480 for someone here before it started to act up. I didn't try the spec pedal feel (since it was only mounted and never even used), but I can tell you that the RPS Max with the 3200 took me a lot of time to get used to. Very heavy for my liking, but holds like nothing else. for your power goals I would stick with the Spec stage 3 to be on the safe side and I believe both the stage 2 and 3 have the same pedal feel but don't hold me to that. see if anyone in your area has a MKIII with an after market clutch that is willing to let you drive the car or at least feel the clutch. I am in Orlando, FL, so if you are close by or you will be in town you are more than welcome to try my clutch.
 

CPT Furious

Now MAJ FURY!
Mar 30, 2005
607
0
0
KDOV
I agree with Knight above...

It is an extremely stiff pedal and while it's not quite an on/off switch, it is pretty close. It was really annoying in stop-n-go traffic.

While it allowed me to bark the tires going to 4th gear and held power amazingly well, I don't feel it is really suited for every day driving. I switched to the HPF Bronze/ACT PP combo and I have been much happier.
 

drjonez

Supramania Contributor
Mar 31, 2005
3,061
0
0
18
the motor city
www.4cefed.com
SPEC uses a stock PP, hence the tq holding issues.

ACT + RPS are true upgraded PPs...RPS being crazy. be sure you bypass your neutral start switch so as to not destroy your thrust bearings....
 

oscolivar1

Supraism
Feb 8, 2006
1,000
0
0
37
Virginia beach
CPT Furious said:
I agree with Knight above...

It is an extremely stiff pedal and while it's not quite an on/off switch, it is pretty close. It was really annoying in stop-n-go traffic.

While it allowed me to bark the tires going to 4th gear and held power amazingly well, I don't feel it is really suited for every day driving. I switched to the HPF Bronze/ACT PP combo and I have been much happier.

i have the HPF bronze/act PP as well...
happy that i didnt go rps PP now