where does this water line go

525gte

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Sep 19, 2011
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hoquiam
on a stock supra with a 1j and the twins .. where does this water line go. the bigger one that is going up in the pic
p1845146_1.jpg

see i am having issues controlling temp. and i think it is cuz the toyota does not talk well with the bimmer.. right now i have it as a return out of the heater core. and that is not how it was in the bimmer set up. and that is the only line i can think of that would be causing my issue.. it was a return, but it went straight back to the radiator.i belive bmw recurclated water differntly than most cars. any hel is good help.
also on a side note..
how much water should i be moving with the 2j pump.? it seems to flow well. but doesnt take much to stop flow..
 

525gte

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Flateric;1845157 said:
It's the supply. Should go up to the firewall to the vacuum actuator for the heater that controls the hotwater flow to the core.
Ok so that may be my problem.. so if that's the supply.. than is the one that comes out the side of the head on the drivers side the return.? How does the return from the core route than ?
 

hvyman

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Ya it goes to the one on the other side on the head.

I have mine just going in and out of the heater core with no valve.

Doesn't Matter which side of the heater core goes where you just shouldn't cap them off. So if not using the heater core just loop them with a hose.
 

525gte

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hvyman;1845184 said:
Ya it goes to the one on the other side on the head.

I have mine just going in and out of the heater core with no valve.

Doesn't Matter which side of the heater core goes where you just shouldn't cap them off. So if not using the heater core just loop them with a hose.
Yeah I ave them going the wrong way. Here is thbe problem with my set up. I have a heater control vauvle for climant contol. And I belive it does. Not flow water thru it when heat is off.. so their is no way to recurlate with out heat on.. I could loop the drivers and passenger into one. Butg than I would have no cold control only hott. Ill post pics of the hole thing to get more idea
 

Flateric

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That metal tube your coming off of to the firewall and then the heater core also bends around back behind the motor as well and continues back into the block to do the recirc, so even if you did cap off the heater core feed line the metal pipe would still allow your coolant back around and into the motor. So it would not be "blocked" off.

It is supposed to block all flow if you are not asking for heat out of the climate control in it's stock configuration. This then forces the coolant to all flow through the metal pipe around the back of the motor and bypass the core. So really you should not have to nor should you really bypass your core manually, unless you core is pissing all over inside your car due to a leak of some type.

I also have no valve on my setup and essentially always flowing coolant through my heater core. But I live in Canada EH!
 

525gte

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Flateric;1845211 said:
That metal tube your coming off of to the firewall and then the heater core also bends around back behind the motor as well and continues back into the block to do the recirc, so even if you did cap off the heater core feed line the metal pipe would still allow your coolant back around and into the motor. So it would not be "blocked" off.

It is supposed to block all flow if you are not asking for heat out of the climate control in it's stock configuration. This then forces the coolant to all flow through the metal pipe around the back of the motor and bypass the core. So really you should not have to nor should you really bypass your core manually, unless you core is pissing all over inside your car due to a leak of some type.


I also have no valve on my setup and essentially always flowing coolant through my heater core. But I live in Canada EH!
 

525gte

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Sothan I must have another issue..when I have heater controls on car cools correctly. With the heater fan off. Withe the heater off set to cold. The car has hard time staying under 200. But does not over heat.. I am wondering if maybe I have a clogged radiator
 

te72

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200°F is a pretty typical operating temperature for a 1jz. On the highway, mine will fluctuate between 190 and 210, depending on the hills I'm climbing/descending.
 

525gte

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te72;1845586 said:
200°F is a pretty typical operating temperature for a 1jz. On the highway, mine will fluctuate between 190 and 210, depending on the hills I'm climbing/descending.
that is exactly what it does.. i have the fan turning on at about 208 off at 197ish.. so maybe im just on the normal and seems warm for me. i took out the auxillery pump. but broke my heater valuve in the process . but after hearing this seems that its normal thanks...
 

IBoughtASupra

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You should turn on the fan earlier to help it cool better. Turn it on before it gets to your max temp so it won't have a chance to exceed it.
 

525gte

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IBoughtASupra;1845652 said:
You should turn on the fan earlier to help it cool better. Turn it on before it gets to your max temp so it won't have a chance to exceed it.
well if i do that i dont thinki it will every cool down enough to turn off. i ,ay need to get a different controller. but if it turns on at 200. than it would prob have to cool to 185 idk if it eill get their i will try
 

te72

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Paging IJ... Dr IJ, report to the BMW thread... :)

Honestly man, your car's fan probably won't be ABLE to cool it down below 190, and that's perfectly fine. This is where they are designed to run at. I start my fan around 150-160, and never turn it off. Engine doesn't drop below 190, even in cold-as-balls winter weather.