whats the most practical build up for a 7m-gte build up that can be daily driven. as it sits right now its completely stock. the only aftermarket item on the car is the turbo timer i just put in it. i dont want to stroke it but i would like to bore the motor. i would also like to run about 15-18 lbs of boost. can ya guys help get me going in the right direction. i am new to the supra world so please show some remorse!!! thanks
whats the best 7m-gte build up
- Thread starter josh88supra
- Start date
It's never a question of "what is the best [insert line here]". It's what is the best build for your budget and what you want out of it.
From what I know:
15-18psi of boost means you're not running a stock ct-26 (stock blows hot air above 12-14psi), probably going to want a MHG for safety, and you'll need either a lexAFM/550 mod or fuel management.
You could use stock internals, but if you bore the block you'll need new pistons. While the motor is out, shot-peen/beam polish the stock rods (assuming they're good), and they'll be better (I've heard) than some aftermarket rods. Check the crank, new oil pump, new seals on everything, deck the head and block, and put it all back together.
Depending on your part choice and where you shop, it may cost you anywhere from 2000-4000 or more to do a proper, solid and reliable build.
Do a search, this has all been discussed a billion times.
From what I know:
15-18psi of boost means you're not running a stock ct-26 (stock blows hot air above 12-14psi), probably going to want a MHG for safety, and you'll need either a lexAFM/550 mod or fuel management.
You could use stock internals, but if you bore the block you'll need new pistons. While the motor is out, shot-peen/beam polish the stock rods (assuming they're good), and they'll be better (I've heard) than some aftermarket rods. Check the crank, new oil pump, new seals on everything, deck the head and block, and put it all back together.
Depending on your part choice and where you shop, it may cost you anywhere from 2000-4000 or more to do a proper, solid and reliable build.
Do a search, this has all been discussed a billion times.
first things first. you wanna make sure your engine is healthy before you do any mods to it. once you've got that taken care of then you can mod. im doing a basic build right now. i'm fully rebuilding my motor, stock. then i'm gonna add a full 3" turbo back exhaust and an intake. after i break in the motor i plan on prepping the fuel system for a 57 trim ct26 upgrade. that includes injectors, fuel pump, fpr, lexus afm, 2.5" intercooler piping and a few other things. this should be a pretty good daily driver setup and is good for about 350hp. hope that helps. pm me if you have questions about my build
Nate
Nate
Hey, you build the motor right, and you can go to town on 'er and drive it daily. If you've got an infinite budget, then no problem.
However, I bet you (Like the rest of us) have a budget to work with, and don't wnat to waste your money.
There are people who will say that the most effective thing to do is buy a 1JZ and swap it in for reliability, too. It might even be worthwhile at a certain budget point. (Just listing an alternative.)
As said: Make sure that your stock motor is solid before stressing it. If it's no good, when you add power it's not going to get better.
Okay, so you've got your block bored, 0.020 is probably about as much as you'll want. You're getting aftermarket pistons at that point. Daily driven I don't think forged are that great an idea, as they need to be warmed up more carefully than most daily drivers will be. (Really though, that overbore isn't a huge increase in displacement. You sure you need to do that?)
You'll want the fuel system upgraded. Lex AFM and 550cc injectors is the most dummy-proof way to do that. The TCCS ECU isn't the most advanvced thing around, but it's good and safe for a daily driver, and the Lex/550 mod will keep the factory safties in place. This is probably a great start. Add in a Walbro 255lph fuel pump to make sure you keep those injectors fed, and you're ready to go.
You'll want to keep your turbo in good shape. An upgraded BOV (recirculating) is on the agenda. Might as well get some nice IC hardpipes, too. Hey, why not a better IC while you're in there. A cool intake is a happy intake.
Okay, you've got fuel, and you can cool the intake charge. Now it's time to crank up the boost. Doing that on the stock turbo will only get you so far, and it's not far at all. Turbo upgrades are called for. It seems to be that a 57 trim CT26 is still reasonably reliable, but good for more fun. Add in a 3" exhaust from the turbo back, and boost control, and you're ready to tear up the streets. Daily.
However, I bet you (Like the rest of us) have a budget to work with, and don't wnat to waste your money.
There are people who will say that the most effective thing to do is buy a 1JZ and swap it in for reliability, too. It might even be worthwhile at a certain budget point. (Just listing an alternative.)
As said: Make sure that your stock motor is solid before stressing it. If it's no good, when you add power it's not going to get better.
Okay, so you've got your block bored, 0.020 is probably about as much as you'll want. You're getting aftermarket pistons at that point. Daily driven I don't think forged are that great an idea, as they need to be warmed up more carefully than most daily drivers will be. (Really though, that overbore isn't a huge increase in displacement. You sure you need to do that?)
You'll want the fuel system upgraded. Lex AFM and 550cc injectors is the most dummy-proof way to do that. The TCCS ECU isn't the most advanvced thing around, but it's good and safe for a daily driver, and the Lex/550 mod will keep the factory safties in place. This is probably a great start. Add in a Walbro 255lph fuel pump to make sure you keep those injectors fed, and you're ready to go.
You'll want to keep your turbo in good shape. An upgraded BOV (recirculating) is on the agenda. Might as well get some nice IC hardpipes, too. Hey, why not a better IC while you're in there. A cool intake is a happy intake.
Okay, you've got fuel, and you can cool the intake charge. Now it's time to crank up the boost. Doing that on the stock turbo will only get you so far, and it's not far at all. Turbo upgrades are called for. It seems to be that a 57 trim CT26 is still reasonably reliable, but good for more fun. Add in a 3" exhaust from the turbo back, and boost control, and you're ready to tear up the streets. Daily.
keep stock motor, Replace HG with a metal, run only 10-12 lbs of boost and check your oil, then just keep the 7m stock
If you start to bore and that kind of stuff one might as well go with forged internals and that kind of stuff.
If you start to bore and that kind of stuff one might as well go with forged internals and that kind of stuff.If your 7M has high miles or is unhealthy, get it rebuilt. If your not sure of the condition, get it rebuilt.
You can only bore so much, so either way it won't increase your displacement much at all.
At a bare minimum I would upgrade the headbolts and get a MLS headgasket. With the rebuild that should set you back about $1500. For about another $1000, you can get forged pistons and rods also.
You can only bore so much, so either way it won't increase your displacement much at all.
At a bare minimum I would upgrade the headbolts and get a MLS headgasket. With the rebuild that should set you back about $1500. For about another $1000, you can get forged pistons and rods also.
I agree wit what everybody else said. Everything but that 1j part:3d_frown: All in all u want a fresh motor no matter what motor it is. What is they mileage on ur motor? For shits and giggles compression test ur motor. You'll have an idea of what condition it is in then.
gtsfirefighter
SM Expert on White trash
Stock rebuild with a MHG and ARP studs. That would be a reliable foundation. IC hardpipes, complete 3" exhaust and you could put down close to 300 hp, or so I was told by very reliable members.
the motor only has 77k on it. its never been beat on. my budget will be around 3 to 4 grand. should i do a compression test before i go tearing apart the motor?
Even with only 77k on it, it would be best to take it apart and replaces seals,gaskets and such.
But, like most people have been saying, rebuild it stock. You should be able to run 18 pounds on stock internals if tuned well. An upgreded ct-26 or other turbo is a must tho. Just make sure its done well and all the clearances check out.
But, like most people have been saying, rebuild it stock. You should be able to run 18 pounds on stock internals if tuned well. An upgreded ct-26 or other turbo is a must tho. Just make sure its done well and all the clearances check out.
I have heard horror stories with 7M's even with under 100k miles. You just don't know how what this engine has been through in the last 19 years.
I have not had any problems over the last 5 years with my rebuilt stock internalled 7M other than the head lifting from running so much boost. And that was my fault for not prepping the block properly for the MLS headgasket. No oiling issues, no rodknock, over boosted a million times..
I have not had any problems over the last 5 years with my rebuilt stock internalled 7M other than the head lifting from running so much boost. And that was my fault for not prepping the block properly for the MLS headgasket. No oiling issues, no rodknock, over boosted a million times..
If your wanting to bore the motor for added power, you may want to reconsider.
Read my thread on how much the 7M can breath. You most likely will not feel a power increase from a bored block (you may feel it however, if you were low on compression before teardown). The real gain would be in stroking it, but you've already said you don't want to go that route.
Try this, higher compression aftermarket pistons (something like 9:1, nothing major) if you want good throttle response and higher HP potential at lower boost. You can make more power with a higher compression piston, but make sure you have a safe enough tune to handle them if you start to run higher boost pressures, like 14+ psi.
A wideband meter is always a good thing to have.
Read my thread on how much the 7M can breath. You most likely will not feel a power increase from a bored block (you may feel it however, if you were low on compression before teardown). The real gain would be in stroking it, but you've already said you don't want to go that route.
Try this, higher compression aftermarket pistons (something like 9:1, nothing major) if you want good throttle response and higher HP potential at lower boost. You can make more power with a higher compression piston, but make sure you have a safe enough tune to handle them if you start to run higher boost pressures, like 14+ psi.
A wideband meter is always a good thing to have
.
I did this to my 91 with 100k on the motor and it ran GREAT for a daily driver until it was run low on oil came up lame with a rod knock....
To me, this is the as basic as it gets.
1. Open up the air filter - (remove stock set-up)
2. Open up the exhaust - 3 inches all the way
3. Replace head gasket with metal
3. Replace stock fuel pump with newer MKIV pump (direct replacement)
4. Install Fuel Cut Defencer
5. Install new Boost Guage
6. Install Manual Boost controller
7. Up the stock boost to about 12-13 psi and impress your old school V8 friends. Trust me, they won't believe that it is a 3.0....
All of these upgrades can be done on the cheap or expensive.... The head gasket is the hardest and a must. Even if you want to do more now ore later, you will need pretty much everything on this list to start out.
Also, since you are up there where the air is super cold, someone might want to chime in on max boost vs octane relationship with this set up so you don't lean things out too much. Down here in Houston I ran it up to 14 psi. On cooler nights it ran and pulled very strong.
If the low end is good, you can take it to the next step with more fuel, turbo upgrade, IC upgrade, more boost, etc.
To me, this is the as basic as it gets.
1. Open up the air filter - (remove stock set-up)
2. Open up the exhaust - 3 inches all the way
3. Replace head gasket with metal
3. Replace stock fuel pump with newer MKIV pump (direct replacement)
4. Install Fuel Cut Defencer
5. Install new Boost Guage
6. Install Manual Boost controller
7. Up the stock boost to about 12-13 psi and impress your old school V8 friends. Trust me, they won't believe that it is a 3.0....
All of these upgrades can be done on the cheap or expensive.... The head gasket is the hardest and a must. Even if you want to do more now ore later, you will need pretty much everything on this list to start out.
Also, since you are up there where the air is super cold, someone might want to chime in on max boost vs octane relationship with this set up so you don't lean things out too much. Down here in Houston I ran it up to 14 psi. On cooler nights it ran and pulled very strong.
If the low end is good, you can take it to the next step with more fuel, turbo upgrade, IC upgrade, more boost, etc.
I think the stock internal rebuild is what i am going to do. with all the information that you all have given me that sounds the best. other than having the head and block decked should i do anything to the head if everything seems to be in good order and if so should i just do a mild build of the head? after i do the rebuild and these modifications to the car, should i take it to a supra specialist to have it tuned?
I think your question is "I want to make xxx hp and I'd like to obtain this at xx psi and have it a daily driver."
Quick response: MHG, machine work, MBC, 550's, Lex AFM, SAFCII, and stock/upgraded CT
And I don't think you want to "bore" your car, it sounds like someone suggested that to you but you don't just "bore" you car.
Quick response: MHG, machine work, MBC, 550's, Lex AFM, SAFCII, and stock/upgraded CT
And I don't think you want to "bore" your car, it sounds like someone suggested that to you but you don't just "bore" you car.
The Best build for a 7m is one built for your needs. There no such thing as a universal best built 7m for everyone.
Questions you need to answer.
1) Power Goal
2) Power band RPM
3) Realistic Budget
4) Realistic use for said engine
An engine is just an engine, 15-18psi is meaningless. 15-18 psi could be anything from 300hp to 600 horsepower to the tire pending turbo and power band.
Realistic use of an engine determines power goal, Where you want the power determines turbo size, turbo size determines how "built" you need the engine to be based on your 15-18 psi goal.
On top of that intercooler size is determined by turbo size as well as injectors and engine management to tune it.
More accurate goals are needed for a more accurate response.
Questions you need to answer.
1) Power Goal
2) Power band RPM
3) Realistic Budget
4) Realistic use for said engine
An engine is just an engine, 15-18psi is meaningless. 15-18 psi could be anything from 300hp to 600 horsepower to the tire pending turbo and power band.
Realistic use of an engine determines power goal, Where you want the power determines turbo size, turbo size determines how "built" you need the engine to be based on your 15-18 psi goal.
On top of that intercooler size is determined by turbo size as well as injectors and engine management to tune it.
More accurate goals are needed for a more accurate response.
I want to create 400 horse and the powerband to be from 3k to 6k rpms. i will have about 5 grand. this wont be a everyday driver. i have suv that i drive to and from work i just want to build something reliable and fast for nice days and weekends to drive as well as go down the track. i dont want a all out race car just something fast and reliable
3k as in full boost at 3k? Holset or bigger CT upgrade (60-1, 62-1). For 400, I'd say a good condition stock motor with a Felpro (drop in, no machine work required if head and block are decent) HG would be fine for that. I'm making close to that (350/370rw) on a 62-1 with positive boost by 2500 and full boost (15PSI) not long after. A rough outline:
550CC injectors
Lexus AFM from a 1UZ (any Lexus 400 car)
Upgraded CT or Holset (HY35, HX40)
AFPR
SAFC
Full 3" exhaust and IC hard pipes
Bigger intercooler (Spearco or Spearco replica)
Wideband 02 sensor
Some kind of boost controller
Upgraded BPV (Bosch, HKS)
Accurate boost gauge
Walbro 255LPH fuel pump
I'd recommend an EGT gauge, too. Mild cams wouldn't be a bad idea, but are certainly not required. I'm sure others will chime in, so if I missed anything they'll let you know. Just as important as all of that stuff, however, is the tune, so make sure you keep that in mind.
550CC injectors
Lexus AFM from a 1UZ (any Lexus 400 car)
Upgraded CT or Holset (HY35, HX40)
AFPR
SAFC
Full 3" exhaust and IC hard pipes
Bigger intercooler (Spearco or Spearco replica)
Wideband 02 sensor
Some kind of boost controller
Upgraded BPV (Bosch, HKS)
Accurate boost gauge
Walbro 255LPH fuel pump
I'd recommend an EGT gauge, too. Mild cams wouldn't be a bad idea, but are certainly not required. I'm sure others will chime in, so if I missed anything they'll let you know. Just as important as all of that stuff, however, is the tune, so make sure you keep that in mind.
thats another thing i have been thinking about, once i do all these things to my car who should i take it to to have it tuned? some of the speed shops around me are into honda, acura and other 4 cyl. the other speed shops are for american muscle v8s. if i have to i can trailer the car to a well known tuner if it will be worth my effort, time and money. i am open to suggestions please