Hi guys I wanted to get some idea on how to gain 400+hp with 57trim. Obviously I know that I need additional parts. Ct26 isn't cutting out enough power for me cause I want to go for more boost, how much boost can a ct26 handle and a 57trim? Let me know thanks...
What upgrade to get 400+hp with a 57trim?
- Thread starter Silv89t
- Start date
Silv89t;1547617 said:
The .57 Trim is a CT-26.
If you want to make that kind of power you will need to upgrade the fuel system with larger injectors, a bigger fuel pump, bypass the J tube, intake(lexus afm), intercooler, Hard pipes, some way to tune it and I wouldn't do that with out upgrading the oiling system and cooling system.
Silv89t;1547617 said:
you can get it tuned in modesto at my friends friend has a dyno at his shop
Replacing *ALL* the coolant hoses on the engine with Toyota hoses (parts shop hoses are made from some different material, it's worth the extra cash) definitely wouldn't hurt. I personally would put an aluminum radiator on it to replace the stocker, just to make sure everythings new, not clogged and won't have any cooling problems.
The only thing you can do for your oiling system is the thermostat controlled oil cooler setup...jdub or jetjock have a thread about it somewhere around here, do a search. Not necessary for street cars, arguable for weekend road course warriors though...
The only thing you can do for your oiling system is the thermostat controlled oil cooler setup...jdub or jetjock have a thread about it somewhere around here, do a search. Not necessary for street cars, arguable for weekend road course warriors though...
I think that the oil cooler mod(to thermostatic) is almost a necessary mod, since the factory system only opens the cooler circuit above a specific pressure(~40psi).
I'm pretty sure that the oil needs to be cooled on occasions when you are at less than that psi. Other oil mods include shimming the oil pump, to improve pressure slightly,
lowering the oil pickup to reduce the chances of oil starvation, running an extra quart of oil(for the same purpose). There is also a high flow oil line supply mod, to replace the tube
and banjo fittings coming off the oil pump itself. I agree with the OP about replacing the rad with an aluminum one- it alone cured my high temp problems. Not because
the factory unit is insufficient, but mine was simply old and clogged, and the AL unit has a larger capacity.
I also agree with the 87MGTE about necessary fuel and air mods. Some may not be necessary to hit the 400 mark, but without them, you're running on the edge of the safety margin.
Also- a full exhaust is necessary- and should be one of your first mods. I would replace the DP and exhaust, as well as intake first, and see what a difference it can make in your car- it's pretty good.
I'm pretty sure that the oil needs to be cooled on occasions when you are at less than that psi. Other oil mods include shimming the oil pump, to improve pressure slightly,
lowering the oil pickup to reduce the chances of oil starvation, running an extra quart of oil(for the same purpose). There is also a high flow oil line supply mod, to replace the tube
and banjo fittings coming off the oil pump itself. I agree with the OP about replacing the rad with an aluminum one- it alone cured my high temp problems. Not because
the factory unit is insufficient, but mine was simply old and clogged, and the AL unit has a larger capacity.
I also agree with the 87MGTE about necessary fuel and air mods. Some may not be necessary to hit the 400 mark, but without them, you're running on the edge of the safety margin.
Also- a full exhaust is necessary- and should be one of your first mods. I would replace the DP and exhaust, as well as intake first, and see what a difference it can make in your car- it's pretty good.
To Supra guy: "HuH" I learned something. I tell you what,.. I did the exhaust, man what a difference!
I need to do some "hijacking: What is a "safe" boost level that a 57 trim with Lexus/550, three inch exhaust and A.F.P.R. can do with out adding a fuel computer? I'm thinking 14 or 15 p.s.i.
Koenigturbo;1547725 said:
If I recall, Reg Reimier did his original Lexus AFM/550cc injector mod without any sort of piggy back fuel. He controlled fuel by manipulating fuel pressure. However, I don't think he went over 12-14 psi. I would not recommend going too far over your fuel cut point, say maybe another 4psi extra? Really, there's no way to know what "safe" is without a wideband at the minimum and an exhaust temperature gauge as a luxury. Anything over 12psi and you're probably playing with fire... people have done it but I'm sure someone's melted an engine doing it. If it were me, I would get a wideband and pass on the fuel computer... see what the wideband tells you and get a computer if neccessary.
Conservative is best... blown engines are significantly slower than stock engines!
please please please pay some one to tune your car on a dyno
I highly doubt you will crack 350whp let alone 400whp without some type of fuel controller
just because you are boosting higher, doesn't mean you are making more power
I'm sorry for the lecture/rant
But I hate seeing people spend thousands on parts, only to cheap out on tuning, I thought only honda people did that sort of thing...
tuning is well worth the extra $500 or how ever much you're going to be charged as long as the tuner is half decent
I highly doubt you will crack 350whp let alone 400whp without some type of fuel controller
just because you are boosting higher, doesn't mean you are making more power
I'm sorry for the lecture/rant
But I hate seeing people spend thousands on parts, only to cheap out on tuning, I thought only honda people did that sort of thing...
tuning is well worth the extra $500 or how ever much you're going to be charged as long as the tuner is half decent
ml43;1548151 said:
hey, thanks for your reply: first, I welcome all replies, except for the "smart ass, know it all, my shit don't sink replies" Your rant and lecture is welcome. I was just wondering what is "safe", I have not gone over 8 .ps.i. becuase I don't a computer yet. I was just gonna a safe boost level untill I get a computer
Thanks
SideWinderGX;1547670 said:
Gates hose is a tier 1 supplier to many of the OEMs. Saying they use something other than original is just false. I recommend to everyone to request Gates hoses and belts when replacing them.
I have 432whp with a 57trim at 18psi... But I'm running an A'PEXi SAFC-II also along with the mods you described, but I am in the midst of installing my wideband right now actually, those things save your car and your wallet... Even if they are $200-$300 you could spend way more rebuilding your engine.
MROsborne;1548260 said:
That's really nice, Your H.P.goals are the same as mine, so that's good news for me.
Keros: was talking about a E.G.T. gauge, whats the accecptable tempurture range as far as being to lean or rich? How hot or cold should the gauge read before it's to lean or rich?
Thanks
Kckazdude;1548251 said:
I apologize, I've never heard of Gates hose before and will check them out.
I can personally attest that Advance Auto Parts/Auto Zone/Napa hoses are shit. That little 90 degree heater hose below the power steering resorvoir? I replaced it two years ago with a hose from one of the listed places...it blew a few weeks ago. The Toyota unit lasted 21 years. Not to mention you can see/feel the difference in the hoses.
More info on Gates hoses please?
Never mind, quick google search revealed everything. Crap, they have a lot of stuff, thanks!
Koenigturbo;1548382 said:
Here is some EGT info:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?p=370984&post370984
