What Do you know

[Justin]

about having to do the 12 volt fuel pump mod with a walbro fuel pump!!!!

i just had an idea... when i slam the throttle at idle I hit extremely lean and the car bogs before it corrects itself and goes normal....

could that be the problem, i havn't rewired my fuel pump relay?

 

[screaminglemon]

as far as i know, the walbro was not meant to be run on less than 12v.

the constant 12v mod is very quick and easy. give it a shot and see if it solves your problem.

 

[Justin]

as far as i know, the walbro was not meant to be run on less than 12v.

the constant 12v mod is very quick and easy. give it a shot and see if it solves your problem.

it is very quick and easy, but sf is down and I cannot find any diagrams on here! any links for me?

 

[screaminglemon]

just bypass the fuel pump solenoid resistor. it sits on the pass side strut tower.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_114.html

or you can get rid of it all and bypass the whole thing, +B to FP. you might get an error code if you do that though. im not sure.

 

[Slow Poopra 7MGTE]

when you take it off just cut the male end of the plug off of the resistor pack itself and slice the 2 ends and conect them (that would be your jumper eliminating the resistor pack) and plug it back in, simple took me 10 mins

 

[Turkish]

when you take it off just cut the male end of the plug off of the resistor pack itself and slice the 2 ends and conect them (that would be your jumper eliminating the resistor pack) and plug it back in, simple took me 10 mins

got a picture of this? My walbro was installed by the guy who rebuilt my engine so I don't know how he hooked it up as far as 12v mod, does what you just described make the walbro run at 12v constant?

 

[silver88turbo]

Could be TCCS going from open to closed loop.

 

[Justin]

just bypass the fuel pump solenoid resistor. it sits on the pass side strut tower.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_114.html

or you can get rid of it all and bypass the whole thing, +B to FP. you might get an error code if you do that though. im not sure.

Sweet.

That's Easy.

What is the relay that is sitting right next to the resistor do? ( I like to remove as much stuff as possiable )

 

[shaeff]

got a picture of this? My walbro was installed by the guy who rebuilt my engine so I don't know how he hooked it up as far as 12v mod, does what you just described make the walbro run at 12v constant?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_115.html

that connector right there. cut it off close to the resistor pack, and solder the two wires together. that'll give you 12v constant

-shaeff

 

[Justin]

so the relay is turning the resistor on/off right? so theoretically, both the relay and the resistor could be bypassed? Yes?

 

[Turkish]

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_115.html

that connector right there. cut it off close to the resistor pack, and solder the two wires together. that'll give you 12v constant

-shaeff

Awesome so that connector in that picture just cut it off and the two wires there you solder them together and you get 12v? I coulda done that in 2 min all this time lol?! What is the thing that that would normally connect to? You just leave its connection unconnected or can you remove the unit it used to connect to completely? Thanks for the help

 

[shaeff]

so the relay is turning the resistor on/off right? so theoretically, both the relay and the resistor could be bypassed? Yes?

i'm not sure if thats a good idea, or of the effects of doing so. you *could* relocate the relay to some less obvous location. i'll be moving mine to the firewall, to open up that space even more.

What is the thing that that would normally connect to? You just leave its connection unconnected or can you remove the unit it used to connect to completely? Thanks for the help

well, the way dr. jonez says to do the 12v mod is to place a jumper in the body side of the harness. considering we'll probably never go back to stock with the car, we'll also never use the resistor pack again. right?

SO, i just say cut that connector off the resistor pack and solder the wires together. it's that easy you can remove the resistor pack. (the part that's shown in the link i provided) but you have to take the relay off of it and keep it in the car. i removed my resistor pack.

i just turned my relay sideways and used the mount where it would normally go onto the resistor pack to mount it to the fenderwell with a 10mm bolt.

-shaeff

 

[Turkish]

Awesome thanks for the help shaeff, lol hopefully the thread starter got the info he needed too

 

[screaminglemon]

i'm not sure if thats a good idea, or of the effects of doing so. you *could* relocate the relay to some less obvous location. i'll be moving mine to the firewall, to open up that space even more.

but you have to take the relay off of it and keep it in the car.
-shaeff

why do we need to keep the relay? according to the tsrm diagrams, it does nothing but switch the resistor on and off. if we get rid of resistor, we no need relay.

i just may keep the relay for other reasons/uses but i havent decided on that yet.:evil2:


edit: yeay... post # 69 ...:joshers:

 

[miggles]

what about joining up the b+ and FP? thats how i did mine.I didnt know about the resistor,only the relay.

 

[Slow Poopra 7MGTE]

sorry i havnt read this in a while, if pics are still needed of it done i can do it, thanks shaeff for clearing that up for everyone haha, im lazy and dont follow my old posts. but yeah drjonez says do jumped but like shaeff said, you probley will never use the resistor pack again hence put it back into the vehicle, so i just cut the plug little solder and shrink wrap, plug it in and 12v mod :drink1:

:edit: oh yeah, you should be able to hear the pump working harder also, alot louder if its working

 

[shaeff]

why do we need to keep the relay? according to the tsrm diagrams, it does nothing but switch the resistor on and off. if we get rid of resistor, we no need relay.

i just may keep the relay for other reasons/uses but i havent decided on that yet.:evil2:

heh, well pardon my stupidity. when i did the 12v mod i didnt look at a diagram, i just did it. (read: so i really didnt look closely at the TSRM pages above when i posted one of them)

SO, that being said, yes, the relay only drives the resistor. if you'd like, you can do what miggles said and jump +B and FP to eliminate the relay as well.

what about joining up the b+ and FP? thats how i did mine.I didnt know about the resistor,only the relay.

that sir, is correct.

-shaeff

 

[supra90mkiii]

it'd be nice to see some pictures of this,

thanks!

 

[Larry_A]

I've run a Walbro GSS315 for 7 years retaining the stock power setup to it. Insofar as the Walbro not liking less than 12V, that is Internet legend propagated by constant repetition from people who have never read the operational specifications of the Walbro pumps. IIRC, operating voltage per Walbro spec is 7V to 16V.

FWIW, I tried the resistor bypass with the goal of simplifying tuning, but the car ran way too rich...so rich that it could not be tuned out. Even removing the J-tube did not help drop the pressure enough to help. YMMV.

Whatever you guys try, just be certain it isn't permanent & that you're able to return to stock.

Good luck.

 

[Turkish]

Very interesting Larry, so Larry says keeps it the way it is. Anyways this morning I went out to do the mod but there were 4 wires on the connecter not two so I got confused again. Here are a couple shots maybe from them you guys could say exactly what to do maybe I am looking at the wrong thing? lol.