What do you guys think

onefstsupra89

New Member
Sep 12, 2006
195
0
0
Winston Salem , NC
ok im going with a MHG and i was told to use ARP should i use studs or bolts whats the difference between them? Also what are the advantages to getting ported and polished there is a shop here charging me 400.00 +/-to port and polish the head intake and exhaust.
 
Last edited:

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
SM Expert
Feb 10, 2006
10,730
1
38
Valley of the Sun
Studs provide a more constant clamping force and resist stretch. Bolts are easier to install; you don't have to get the head above the studs to get it on.

Both will require a re-torque after 4-5 heat cycles.
 

EdgeSupra

New Member
Feb 19, 2006
506
0
0
36
New Jersey
fasteners like that dont increase performance.
they work to keep your motor together safely so that you dont need to worry if the heads gonna seperate from the block.
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
SM Expert
Feb 10, 2006
10,730
1
38
Valley of the Sun
Studs are better....use the torque spec that comes from ARP with the set.

Keep in mind there is more required to install a MHG. Both the block and head will need to be decked to meet the RA spec for the MHG used.

Do a search on MHG here...this has been pretty much been beat to death.
 

onefstsupra89

New Member
Sep 12, 2006
195
0
0
Winston Salem , NC
great studs it is.....lol now how about the porting jov is it worth it? also my car is Burgendy what color should i try to be able to look good under the hood? anyone have pics of burgendy MK3s?
 

Clip

The Magnificent Seven
Oct 16, 2005
2,738
9
38
35
Virginia
nooooooooob question, but: do studs just screw into the block, then a nut screws onto the part extending past the head?
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
SM Expert
Feb 10, 2006
10,730
1
38
Valley of the Sun
Clip said:
nooooooooob question, but: do studs just screw into the block, then a nut screws onto the part extending past the head?

Correct...studs 1st, drop the head on, then the nuts. You will need a 14mm, 12 point deep socket for the nuts. Depending on the head casting, a 1/2" drive may be too big to clear the hole in the head...just use a 3/8" drive w/ 1/2" adapter to fit the torque wrench. The 3/8" drive socket has thinner walls than a 1/2" does.

Lube the nut portion of the stud w/ moly before you drop the head on...torque to 81 ft/lbs (ARP spec) in multiple passes using the TRSM pattern.
 

souprat

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
649
0
0
38
fairfax VA
onefstsupra89 said:
great studs it is.....lol now how about the porting jov is it worth it? also my car is Burgendy what color should i try to be able to look good under the hood? anyone have pics of burgendy MK3s?


first off what are you talking about with this color thing? never noticed a differance in trap speeds between different colors.

another trick a airforce mechanic bud of mine taught me is that after you torque the headbolts down(in multiple passes) is then take a punch and set it ontop of the stud and give it some LIGHT TAPS with a small hammer. the vibration will help settle the head and stud. after the tapping check the torque. i did this with my motor and when i went back a few months later to check the torque there was only one that was about an 1/8 of a turn loose, everything else was solid as a rock.

EDIT: i just realized i said nothing about porting. this is where you get what you pay for. i would highly suggest doing a search on this site. i would also look into the shop bigtime. will they be doing the work with a flowbench?? how good/new is their equipment? how much expiriance do they have with preformance motors, the 7m? a you cant just attack your head with a dremel tool and expect to get an awsome port. do alot of reading and understand what they will be doing to you head.
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
SM Expert
Feb 10, 2006
10,730
1
38
Valley of the Sun
souprat said:
another trick a airforce mechanic bud of mine taught me is that after you torque the headbolts down(in multiple passes) is then take a punch and set it ontop of the stud and give it some LIGHT TAPS with a small hammer. the vibration will help settle the head and stud. after the tapping check the torque. i did this with my motor and when i went back a few months later to check the torque there was only one that was about an 1/8 of a turn loose, everything else was solid as a rock.

That is a very good "old school" technique and it works quite well ;)
Just make sure you use a flat end punch and like suprat said...LIGHT Taps with the hammer.
 

souprat

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
649
0
0
38
fairfax VA
Forcedtorque, you rock:bigthumb:


and one more thing. if your going to port the thing you should also look into a 3 angle valve job. i suggest it because it will improve your low lift flow and i dont think your going to be running cams with radicaly high lift. it will complement a port nicley with stock cams.
 

onefstsupra89

New Member
Sep 12, 2006
195
0
0
Winston Salem , NC
great thanks for all the info guys in reference to the paint i just wanted to paint under the hood to look 1/2 way decent( valve covers, IC pipes,ETC ETC ) since ill have the motor out. i need a color that will match with burgendy. about the shop? A friend of mine told me they do awsome job one he had it done and he said is like day and night diffrence i really dont believe it that he can tell that much of a diffrence between and ported head and a non ported head specially when the motor is stock. ....the head goes in the machine shop today so soon ill know what the damadge is i might be in the market for a new head..:wtc: being new requires asking alot of questions thank you for all your help

....my future mods are 550's lexus MAF. 60-1 3" DP and exhaust SAFCII.
 

boost PSSH boost

SM's Welding Guru
Apr 4, 2005
465
0
0
37
Marshall, WI
jdub said:
Correct...studs 1st, drop the head on, then the nuts.

Don't forget the washers. You will want to put them around the holes in the head before putting the head on, some of the washers will not fit on with the head sitting on the block and the cams in.
 

spipedong

Level 2 Rythym Rogue
Apr 2, 2005
404
0
0
40
Eugene, OR
Clip said:
nooooooooob question, but: do studs just screw into the block, then a nut screws onto the part extending past the head?

Not that it matters since your question was already answered, but here's a set of ARP studs before the head went on:
IMG_0014.sized.jpg
 

onefstsupra89

New Member
Sep 12, 2006
195
0
0
Winston Salem , NC
boost PSSH boost said:
Don't forget the washers. You will want to put them around the holes in the head before putting the head on, some of the washers will not fit on with the head sitting on the block and the cams in.
great thank you for the advise!!!! well yesterday afternoon i went to my friends machine shop and he inspected the head and told me it was fine and that it wont create any problems, i told him that there was no hurry on the head since i still havnt the MHG and the studs so i told him to do a 3 angle valve job ,clean it and, shave it, he then told me to pick it up the next day ....:bigthumb: i was like WOW wooohoooo!!! so as soon as i get the rest of the stuff in i should be driving her around by next week hopefully....:biglaugh: