Okay so my supra has been throwin the engine light on and off for a couple weeks now but i havent had a chance to check the code. It only comes on sometimes and i thought it might be because i was putting kroger gas in it cause id get exxon gas and it would go back off. I figured it was my knock sensor again so i ordered another one of those just havent had a chance to put it on. So tonight i go outside and pull the 15A fuse to reset my ecu cause the engine hadnt come on today and i figured it mightve just been some bad gas or whatever. Well i pulled it out for 30 seconds and put it back in. then started my car and it idled super low almost to the point of cutting off. Before i pulled the fuse i was idling at 1300 rpms now it wants to idle below 800?!?!? all i did was pull the fuse. And now the engine light comes on immediately after i go into second gear every single time. My question is why could me resetting the ecu cause my car to not want to idle right? and also id like opinions on what the light could be for thanks. also is it okay to just use a copper wire to connect the Te1 the E1 to check my code?
Weird Engine light
- Thread starter 87turbotarga
- Start date
Use a paper clip to check the code.. And they are supposed to idle at 650RPM's Turbo and 700RPM's non turbo.. So if your idling higher something is setup wrong..
it takes less time to check for codes then it does to reset ecu! after two weeks of driving with an engine light on is pretty crazy, its a good way to mess things up morre than they already are. so check the dam code already so you can get help on your issues
try to do alot of research and learn as much as you can by reading endless threads.....
try to do alot of research and learn as much as you can by reading endless threads.....
Okay i will do that today. I had set the idle higher than normal with the little timing gear on the side of the head so thats why it was idling at around 11-12k rpms. When it goes under 800 rpms it sounds like its gonna bog out. When the engine light came on i stopped driving it for a couple weeks i just started driving it again this last week a little bit and the engine light wasnt coming on as much. I thought when the engine light came on it just put the engine in safe mode and makes it run rich?? the engine itself sounds fine when running no knocks or ticks. it also makes you hit fuel cut to.
Should always check what code it is when it comes on.
I use a paper clip to check them.
When you reset the ecu the ecu ahs to relearn its values so it takes a little bit for it do that thats why the idle was lower.
Also adjusting the cps to raise your idle is stupid because now your timing is off. Set it to 10*btdc and fix the problems your covering up.
I use a paper clip to check them.
When you reset the ecu the ecu ahs to relearn its values so it takes a little bit for it do that thats why the idle was lower.
Also adjusting the cps to raise your idle is stupid because now your timing is off. Set it to 10*btdc and fix the problems your covering up.
Code 51 and Code 52. I knew it was the freakin knock sensor again. It was on when i first got the car and the guy said it might need a rewire. So i rewired both of the knock sensors with the ground and did all of that correctly and it was still on. then i replaced on of the knock sensor and it went off. And now here we are again :'( oh well i have an extra knock sensor. The question is now what do i do about the code 51? could that just be coming on because of the code 52 going off?
51 is tps sensor. Prolly needs to be adjusted which is why your idle sucks.
Did you use shielded wire when you did the rewire?
Did you use shielded wire when you did the rewire?
Yeah i used shielded wire and grounded both of them out. I just replaced the knock sensor and drove it around the block after reseting my ecu again. No engine light but well see if it pops on again. Yeah i think my ecu just had to get use to everything again cause it stopped idling low after awhile and went back up to about 1k rpms. Im glad i know how to check my engine light now cause it was super easy i thought it was gonna be more complicated than that. Thanks for the tips you guys!
There is something wrong if its bogging out at the lower RPM's.. You need to set everything up properly per TSRM.. And you can't set the timing if you TPS is set improperly or bad... Timing should be at 10 Degree's BTDC with Te1 and E1 jumped..
Well its not stock so i kinda just fooled around with it until it was running to what i thought sounded good and looked good on the air/fuel ratio gauge. Its got 550 injectors and lexus AFM, and couple other dohickeys
---------- Post added at 07:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:11 PM ----------
Im getting ready to go drive it again now to see how it does. wish me luck ill let you guys know what happens
---------- Post added at 07:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:11 PM ----------
Im getting ready to go drive it again now to see how it does. wish me luck ill let you guys know what happens
check your tps its very important for the car to run right, even if the cars not stock. you just need a multimeter and feeler gauges, there are threads how to do it with pictures to make it even easier. google how to adjusts your tps on 7mgte.
Well i switched out both knock sensors and tightened my TPS sensor, Im still getting code 51 and 52 they go hand and hand together. It only comes on once my car is fully warmed up(temp needle directing in the middle of hot and cold) If i go drive my car for ten minutes cold it runs fine no light. hits boost runs like a charm. but like 2 minutes after it hits a certain temperature and i go above 3k rpms BAM! engine light. Im lost
---------- Post added at 05:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:05 PM ----------
Im gonna try puttin more oil in it maybe when the oil warms up and the pressure drops it somehow detects a know.
---------- Post added at 05:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:05 PM ----------
Im gonna try puttin more oil in it maybe when the oil warms up and the pressure drops it somehow detects a know.
Only one side. I mean when i first did it the engine light went of for like 5 months. and now its on again and i replaced both the sensors. I think 51 might be comin on cause i took my a/c belt off
So ive come to the conclusion that my knock sensors and wiring for them is fine. I think something is causing my car to have a slight ping when warm. Im thinkin its something to do with the gas. Im gonna put a new fuel filter on just a shot in the dark. also i rode all day without it coming on. I turned my heat on and my engine light came on a stoplight later. turned off my heat and my car, engine light never came back on
My oil pressure seems fine :/ I add oil almost weekly cause my turbo burns it. I have to put 20 50w in it to keep the pressure up cause the oil galleys were bored out when the engine was rebuilt but the oil is to thick for the turbo so under high boost it burns it.
you shouldn't be running 20w50 unless its really hot out like here in vegas in the summer 115F.. The 7M is a high flow system not a high pressure system.. so low oil pressure compared to others might actually be good.