Valve Stem Seal Replacment

[jons87mk3]

Just did a valve stem seal replacement on my 7MGTE. Thank you Adam Berry! His directions to complete the job were outstanding! Here is the link:

http://www.supras.com/06/techcenter/display.php?QID=5

I did spend a little more money ($135) on tools and it made the job quite simple! Here is the list:

1. CTA Tools 2205 Valve Stem Seal Pliers (to remove and install seals)

2. OTC 6613 Variable Pin Spanner Wrench (to hold the camshaft pullies when removing the bolts)

3. Lisle 36050 Valve Keeper Remover and Installer Kit (This was the biggest help! only needed the smaller one out of the two. With out this, it would have been extremely hard to remove and install the spring keepers!)

I bought these tools through Amazon. Here are pictures of the tools static and in action. Hope this helps!

 

[Doat]

Having the right tools seriously makes this job so much easier especially the valve keeper tool I tried doing that with a socket and hammer it took me like 30min to get one out and in then when I borrowed the tool from a friend it took me like 10min to get the rest in. I need to replace my seals again because I used a socket to put them in and I messed up a couple, so I had to re-use the old ones that I thought were in good enough condition and at first they were but I started getting a puff of blue smoke on start up. Thanks for posting the info though this should be a sticky.

 

[super51fan]

Great job and thanks for sharing. The right tools make all the difference.

BTW he is using shop air to hold the valves closed.. The rubber hose is a compression tester hose hooked to the air line. You can see the hose in pic 5 and 6. If you don't use air to hold valve closed you will say " man this valve keeper removing tool kicks a## then what was that noise? Oh my the bleepen bleepen valve fell out of the head. I hate my 7m. should have went 2j"

 

[Silver MK3]

This is great info, thanks! I need to do mine as well. I will probably do the rope in cylinder trick though because I don't have a very big air compressor and would hate for it to fail and drop a valve.

I see that you did your's with the head still in the car which is how I would do mine as well. How long did it take you and how mechanically inclined are you?

 

[hvyman]

great job and thanks for sharing. The right tools make all the difference.

Btw he is using shop air to hold the valves closed.. The rubber hose is a compression tester hose hooked to the air line. You can see the hose in pic 5 and 6. If you don't use air to hold valve closed you will say " man this valve keeper removing tool kicks a## then what was that noise? Oh my the bleepen bleepen valve fell out of the head. I hate my 7m. Should have went 2j"

you can also fill the cylinder with rope to hold valves.

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

you can also fill the cylinder with rope to hold valves.

I did the Nylon rope myself. I just don't trust air. My luck the hose will burst and valves will drop. I did two cylinders at one time. Replacing seals is also a great time to check and adjust valve lash. Just measure before removing cams and make notation of which ones are out of spec. After removing cams measure the out of spec shims, do your math, and replace with thicker shims that will put it back in spec.

Also a good time to upgrade valve springs. They have to come out, and back in anyway. I did Comp Cams BBC inner springs. They're inexpensive, new, and better than old worn out stockers.

Just a heads up for those going to do this job soon.

Oh yeah, that valve keeper remover/installer is a life saver. I've done it without that tool a few times and it was a pain in the ass. I used a pvc pipe with magnet pen inside of it to remove the keepers. That was ok.
Installation was a bit tricky. I used the same pvc pipe with cut out strips of plastic party cups held over the valve stems and keepers, then pushed down on the pvc pipe and hope the fell in place. It works, but takes a little bit longer.

Just like this vid below, but the harder plastic from party cups won't leave behind plastic or paper debris when the keepers pinch it. Yes, it works with card stock style paper too. Don't be ashamed to used the ghetto method. You don't have to tell anybody you did it this way. If you do use plastic bags or card stock just triple check to see if any debris was left behind.

[video=youtube;YKY9j_1aJY8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKY9j_1aJY8[/video]

 

[suprafreak123]

So all there is to the nylon trick is to buy a bunch of rope and fill the cylinder until it's full????

 

[jons87mk3]

Silver Mk3, It took me about two days. I took my time taking everything apart and putting it back together. With the tools that I used, the seal replacement part took me about and hour. It goes quick after the first couple you do. I have a little experience. I did valve seals on a chevy 350 (a lot simpler). If I can do it, anyone can! Just take your time.

 

[Silver MK3]

Thanks! I figure it would be a mutli-day affair. I would probably do my timing belt at the same time as well. The furthest I've been into my Supra was when I replaced the valve cover gaskets and distributor O-ring.

Suprapowaz - Do you think it would it be worth it to replace the valve springs on a N/A 7MGE?

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

I think it's worth replacing valve springs on any 20+ year old car while you have access to it. You could buy a valve spring tester to check to see if your stock ones are still good, or take them to a machine shop and pay them to do it. Or you could just buy two boxes of these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-975-12 and be done with it.

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

So all there is to the nylon trick is to buy a bunch of rope and fill the cylinder until it's full????

You don't have to completely fill the cylinders. Just put enough in so when you manually rotate the engine and bring the piston up the rope wedges itself between piston and head. Perform the valve stem seal replacement. Then lower the piston and slowly pull the nylon rope out of the cylinder. Be careful that the rope doesn't tie itself into a knot when pulling it out. If it does happen to biggie on getting it out. Remember that two cylinders come up at the same time, so why not do both? Saves time.

 

[suprafreak123]

You don't have to completely fill the cylinders. Just put enough in so when you manually rotate the engine and bring the piston up the rope wedges itself between piston and head. Perform the valve stem seal replacement. Then lower the piston and slowly pull the nylon rope out of the cylinder. Be careful that the rope doesn't tie itself into a knot when pulling it out. If it does happen to biggie on getting it out. Remember that two cylinders come up at the same time, so why not do both? Saves time.

Thank you bud.... are the springs on the 7m on the Intake side and the exhaust side are the same i assume.

 

[Silver MK3]

I think it's worth replacing valve springs on any 20+ year old car while you have access to it. You could buy a valve spring tester to check to see if your stock ones are still good, or take them to a machine shop and pay them to do it. Or you could just buy two boxes of these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-975-12 and be done with it.

True, I never really thought of them as a wear part, but it makes sense. Might as well put new ones in since the old ones have to come out anyway like you said. I don't think it would be worth it to check the old ones when new ones would only be $54.

 

[hvyman]

Thank you bud.... are the springs on the 7m on the Intake side and the exhaust side are the same i assume.

depends. some companies have a different one for exhaust. ther all the same size tho.

 

[suprafreak123]

depends. some companies have a different one for exhaust. ther all the same size tho.

Thanks for the info I have to fix that asap