I have searched the forums and can not find a single thread on shimming the 1jz valves. Found stuff for the 7m. Are the clearence tolerences the same for the 1jz? If there is a thread out there on this already and someone can point me in that direction would be great, otherwise does anyone have any info about this for me?
Valve shim?
- Thread starter supra0022
- Start date
As far as I know, the 1JZ and 2JZ share the same shims, valves, springs and retainers.
When I bought a brand new set of Brian Crower cams, I ended up buying a spare 1JZ head and took the shims out of it. Then I had a diverse amount of shims to choose from and getting proper gaps was no problem.
I took this from this thread. Hopefully it helps you out.
"now the specs that are used are
intake .006-.010 and exhaust is .010-.014"
remember...that spec is in inches. so for example you turned the cam, lobe you're doing is facing up, its on the intake side. so it should not fit any gauges HIGHER then .010 BUT should fit at least a .006. and same deal for the exhaust side. it SHOULD NOT fit any guages higher then .014 but SHOULD fit at least a .010. just stick your gauge in there but be careful because if you force you might bend the gauges. now what i did on the sheet of paper is next to where i did the readings for each shim..i will scribble it out completely if its good..IF NOT...this is an example of what i'd do:
shim/cam lobe 1 intake side measured earlier w/ micrometer at .114. you just put the feeler gauge in and you could fit a .014 in between the lobe and shim. you should not be over .010 according to specs. so that means that there is too much slack. which means you need to find a shim at least .004 bigger. .114-.004 equals .110. write that next to the spec/cam number to indicate that this is what you need in that bucket. measure all of them...when you are done..find out which ones need to come out...find out if you can swap some out. when you order them make sure to bring the micrometer with you to measure them infront of the persons face unless you order phone/online.
be smart about switching them out. i honestly cheated because stupid toyota parts person (shoulda dealt with champion) ordered wrong shim. it was for the intake side and i could only clear a .005(too tight). it was .006 to be within spec. but i said "what the hell"..i coudlnt wait a few more days and went for it. i'm not saying its write, but i am saying i got away with it. was using fiance's parents garage so had to get it out of there."
When I bought a brand new set of Brian Crower cams, I ended up buying a spare 1JZ head and took the shims out of it. Then I had a diverse amount of shims to choose from and getting proper gaps was no problem.
I took this from this thread. Hopefully it helps you out.
"now the specs that are used are
intake .006-.010 and exhaust is .010-.014"
remember...that spec is in inches. so for example you turned the cam, lobe you're doing is facing up, its on the intake side. so it should not fit any gauges HIGHER then .010 BUT should fit at least a .006. and same deal for the exhaust side. it SHOULD NOT fit any guages higher then .014 but SHOULD fit at least a .010. just stick your gauge in there but be careful because if you force you might bend the gauges. now what i did on the sheet of paper is next to where i did the readings for each shim..i will scribble it out completely if its good..IF NOT...this is an example of what i'd do:
shim/cam lobe 1 intake side measured earlier w/ micrometer at .114. you just put the feeler gauge in and you could fit a .014 in between the lobe and shim. you should not be over .010 according to specs. so that means that there is too much slack. which means you need to find a shim at least .004 bigger. .114-.004 equals .110. write that next to the spec/cam number to indicate that this is what you need in that bucket. measure all of them...when you are done..find out which ones need to come out...find out if you can swap some out. when you order them make sure to bring the micrometer with you to measure them infront of the persons face unless you order phone/online.
be smart about switching them out. i honestly cheated because stupid toyota parts person (shoulda dealt with champion) ordered wrong shim. it was for the intake side and i could only clear a .005(too tight). it was .006 to be within spec. but i said "what the hell"..i coudlnt wait a few more days and went for it. i'm not saying its write, but i am saying i got away with it. was using fiance's parents garage so had to get it out of there."