Ok, got the valve cover seals from toyota. What should the bolts be torqued down to? Also, I was debating coating them with some Toyota blk RTV,... maybe some extra protection against leaking. what do you think? Could it hurt anything by coating the valve cover seals with a light coat of RTV? Thanks in advance.
Valve cover seal job Q's
- Thread starter Supra5MGTE
- Start date
i use a small amount of sealant in the corners only,(not sure its needed) and i looked for the specs on the valve cover bolts, but didnt find the them.. i just tightened mine about as tight as i could with a screwdriver on the stock phillips bolts. then after it warmed up a few times.., i retightened them...
New seals, a little sealant at the cam gear corners, and then torque them down to Toyota spec, 22 in-lbs. Remember that’s in in-lbs not ft-lbs, so basically not very much torque. It has worked well for me.
Here’s the page: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/em/EM_56.html
Here’s the page: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/em/EM_56.html
get some hex head bolts, coat the mating surface with a THIN layer of RTV sealer, new cove washers, and call it a day. i've NEVER had even a tiny little leak from mine. use a 1/4" drive ratchet and hold it very close to the mechanism to tighten it. that way you dont OVERtighten the bolts.
-shaeff
-shaeff
Just to give to you an idea 22in-lbs is approx~1.8 ft-lbs. Few torque wrenches are going to go that low(accurately), so do like shaeff said and use your best guess.
Also, the method I stated works well for me, never had any leaks. However some members just can't get it to work, this is most likely caused by either the head or valve cover surface not being straight. In which case Shaeff method seems to work the best.
Also, the method I stated works well for me, never had any leaks. However some members just can't get it to work, this is most likely caused by either the head or valve cover surface not being straight. In which case Shaeff method seems to work the best.
Well I do have a Inch/lb beam type torque wrench. Bought it at a Bike shop, nice quality Park tool. I use it for pre-load settings on differential pinions. So I can get it dead on 22in/lb. Reason I was thinking of using the RTV is b/c on my 3vz i did the valve covers and they still leaked, from the front... around the cams and also at the rear. So I figured a bit of RTV might help... guess it isn't such a bad idea after all. Thanks for the help guys.
you're SUPPOSED to use a bit of FIPG (form in place gasket, basically toyota's RTV sealer. it's awesome, and super sticky!) on the two "corners" at the front of the cam covers, right where the arch is over the camshafts.
-shaeff
-shaeff
That might explain the leaks on my 3VZ. I have used the Red Toyota RTV, AWSOME STUFF!! This time though.... went there and asked them for the RTV that's used for a oil pan gasket, and he handed me BLACK RTV. What's the difference between the blk and red toyota rtv?
The red toyota RTV costs about $30 from Toyota..at least when I asked at Toyota. I used high temp copper sealant. Cost alot less and worked fine for me.Also upgraded the stock bolts to hex head bolts.
Cheers,
Roy
Cheers,
Roy
Don't tighten them down too much.
I used red RTV in the corners. The corners don't have the pressure from the valve cover pushing the gasket into the corner tightly, so its more prone to leak there.
You might try loctite or something like that on the threads because the torque is real low and vibration/thermal cycling tends to loosen them in time.
I used red RTV in the corners. The corners don't have the pressure from the valve cover pushing the gasket into the corner tightly, so its more prone to leak there.
You might try loctite or something like that on the threads because the torque is real low and vibration/thermal cycling tends to loosen them in time.