Trying to get the camber back into spec

[Sawbladz]

Hey guys,

I need to fix my camber issues before I spend $1000 in tires just to have them wear out. The problem is that my alignment bolts are frozen inside the bushings and can't be adjusted.

I want to know what my options are. For example, what stock components need to be replaced and how much that usually cost's. However, I have heard that if your car is very lowered(mine is), that the stock components won't get you back within stock specs?

This leads me to my next question, should I be buying the A1 camber kit or something similar? Will this save me from buying some parts from Toyota? Would I get away with just buying the camber kit?

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/performanceparts/Toyota/Supra_86-92/Suspension/Camber_Kits

When my car was lowered I took it to get a front end alignment (this is when I found out it was all screwed) and they said that the caster/toe were fine but the camber was screwed. If I can get the camber right and not have to touch the others I would be happy. I don't plan to be changing this too often...just want respectable tire wear.

Thanks in advance guys.

 

[Nick M]

Can't take a torch to it?

 

[Sawbladz]

From what I have read it is not a good idea to torch out the bushings...the preferred method is to cut them out with a sawzall or other type of tool.

However, this was not my question. I want to know what parts I need to buy from the dealer to do the whole job and/or if the A1 camber kit can be used.

 

[BlackDevilSupra]

...The problem is that my alignment bolts are frozen inside the bushings and can't be adjusted.
......

Not an uncommon issue with the MkIII that've experienced >16yrs of over the road usage and expecially in areas frequent with snow & salt.
Solution; new bolts (Toyota does not provide the rubber bushings separately), new nylon or poly' bushings, reciprocating saw or other machinery, and substantial "elbow grease", etc. :3d_frown:

 

[Sawbladz]

Solution; new bolts (Toyota does not provide the rubber bushings separately)

Sorry...the bushings aren't sold seperately? So you mean you need to buy a whole kit?

Has anyone done this recently and can give me a parts/cost list?

 

[Sawbladz]

Is there any more thoughts on this? Anyone purchased this A1 kit from Horsepower freaks?

 

[Halsupramk3]

I had a bad problem getting a proper alignment with my lowered car. It was too low to align with stock adjustments. I bought the super pro bushings for the upper and lower front arms. The top a arms are realatively easy to install. not too difficult to press out the old ones with a proper press.

the front lower a arms are a different story. You have to remove the steel sleave that the rubber bushing is in. The metal lipp of the sleeve has to be cut and bent back so it will pass thru the a arm hole it is in. It takes a kick ass press to press it out. The press also has to press on the bushing and not on the arm. The rubber will give way so you have to cut the sleave on the inside with a die grinder and carbide bit then bend out the sleeve. With the super pro bushings you dont reuse the sleeves. Just press them in. Be sure to clean up the inside of the a arm where the bushing sits and use a lot of grease. I install grease fittings too. the super pro bushings for the front top and bottom is less than $200 i think. very good product. If you cant get the front aligned sometimes the rubber is deteriorated from PS fluid and allow the arm to move around some. When i installed the arms with the poly bushings i had to pull the arms all the way in just about. I attached some pics of the sleeves removed and the holes in the lower a arms that the bushings go into.

I made sure the slots the eccentric cam bolts go into would turn from end to end. While it was all apart i also bent the ears on the subframe that surround the cam lobes back into place and welded some metal behind the ears to keep them from bending out again. Be sure the cams will freely rotate 360 and not be restricted by the ears in one direction. If the cam catches on an ear the bolt will strip out the hole in the cam and make the marks not be true on the cam lobe.

In the rear you may take the no 2 arm ( from diff to lowest bushing on the knuckle) off and weld over the mounting hole on the tire end. Then drill a new hole a little closer in so the arm is shorter from hole to bolt hole. That way it will pull the bottom of the tire in. I did this and it worked well. I then went ahead and bought the a1 u listed. very nice product and adjustable on the car. You have full adjustment with them and it will solve the rear camber problem. I was able to pull the bottom of the tire in with these. but when i did the toe went out and wore out the inner edges of my rear tires. The oem toe arm did not pull the front edge of the tire in enough now that i could get the camber correct. I had to also buy the a1 toe arms. they are more expensive but i can align my car correctly. the toe arms have to be adjusted with the tire end disconnected. These arms also replace all the bushings except those on the knuckle. I have not replaced the rear upper a arm bushings yet. I have not bought the other bars the traction arms.