Ok i know the head needs to be torqued down to 75 l/bs right? So should I torque the rod bolts and the main bolts still to what the tsrm says or do they need to be torqued more to?
Devin LeBlanc;1667149 said:If your using ARP's torque to their spec with the supplied Moly lube. Which is 95 ft lbs with use of the moly lube. Rod bolts are meant to be used once, once they stretch they are supposed to act like a spring to keep tension on it. Especially after a rodknock if you get the rods re sized and use undersize bearings the bolts will fail because of the heat that was applied to them with no lubrication.. We just had a Fully built motor fail in our track car due to being in a rush for an event and just resizing the rods and putting it back together. Now it shot a rod out the block because the bolts let go, Destroyed the crower rod as well as the Supertech pistons.. And block and head for that matter.
Poodles;1667500 said:Also also, updated stock head bolt torque is 76 ft/lbs (easy way to remember this is it's the same as the lug nuts)
Poodles;1667692 said:Yes, that's why I put updated
Devin LeBlanc;1667760 said:I called ARP and they told me to torque my ARP Head Bolts (NOT STUDS) to 90ft lbs with ARP Moly lube and 130ft lbs with gear oil. They said its the same with the studs. I gave them part numbers too for the 7M
mkIIIman089;1667821 said:Just read the little sheet that the ARP fasteners come with, I'd put money on not one single person in this thread being correct so far.
I've done both studs and bolts, but don't remember specifics, and speculation is very dangerous.