I'm replacing a lot of gaskets in my mk3 7mge I just bought it a month ago for my first car and I bought a graphite head gasket kit for it since it needs a new one but I also went ahead and bought ARP head bolts and studs and tips of advice for when installing
Top engine rebuild any tips?
- Thread starter Setsuko37
- Start date
Did you buy the ARP Bolts, or the ARP studs (there is a difference). Replace every single hose you can while you have all the parts off the car (especially coolant lines). Do as many gaskets as you can too. I cannot recall which ones I did during my top end rebuild. If i came across something that COULD be replaced, I would order it, wait, and do it. <<Preventative maintenance. Helicoil the exhaust studs too while the head is off, and get the valve seals done!!!
Id also get new timing belt, check valve clearances, cps o ring, clean throttle body (clean all the parts actually).
If you want to do it properly, you *should* machine the head AND the block. I got away with just machining the head, and just smoothing out the block. My ARP studs were torqued to 80ft/lbs. Held up for years without a single problem.
Be sure to label all the bolts and nuts in plastic bags. Dont want a handfull of extra stuff once your all finished the hard work.
Id also get new timing belt, check valve clearances, cps o ring, clean throttle body (clean all the parts actually).
If you want to do it properly, you *should* machine the head AND the block. I got away with just machining the head, and just smoothing out the block. My ARP studs were torqued to 80ft/lbs. Held up for years without a single problem.
Be sure to label all the bolts and nuts in plastic bags. Dont want a handfull of extra stuff once your all finished the hard work.
Here the arp kit I'm ordering
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-...Accessories&hash=item2a127b8084#ht_3284wt_722
Here's the gasket kit
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Grap...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
And here's what I'm doing 2.5 inch piping straight back because whole exhaust is rusted to he'll and has holes all in it, the 4' of aluminized
http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Exhaust-Tubing/752882/10002/-1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-...Accessories&hash=item2a127b8084#ht_3284wt_722
Here's the gasket kit
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Grap...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
And here's what I'm doing 2.5 inch piping straight back because whole exhaust is rusted to he'll and has holes all in it, the 4' of aluminized
http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Exhaust-Tubing/752882/10002/-1
I would order the STUDS instead of the BOLTS. Check out www.driftmotion.com
they got some good stuff on there you can order.
they got some good stuff on there you can order.
I know engines but not like internals so bare with me now in the eBay add for the arp stuff it says "bolts and studs" are those a different type of studs?
Just lookup the difference between bolts and studs on google. It says "bolts and studs" only because thats what they are known for. A stud is basically a threaded piece, and you clamp it down with a seperate nut. Bolts are all one piece and have a threaded portion, with "bolt head" on top for a socket to fit onto to tighten/loosen.
Like I said, go look up the difference between bolts, and studs. They are different. You can only use one or the other for your head.
These are bolts:
http://www.lextreme.com/bolts/arp-main 006.jpg
These are studs:
http://www.northernautoparts.com/im...tud_Kits/ARP_Pontiac_Main_Stud_Kit_350pxl.jpg
Difference between bolts and studs:
http://www.thomasnet.com/articles/hardware/head-stud-bolts
These are bolts:
http://www.lextreme.com/bolts/arp-main 006.jpg
These are studs:
http://www.northernautoparts.com/im...tud_Kits/ARP_Pontiac_Main_Stud_Kit_350pxl.jpg
Difference between bolts and studs:
http://www.thomasnet.com/articles/hardware/head-stud-bolts
Get a Toyota EGR cooling plate recirc gasket. The one in that kit looks like it's a cardboard type gasket and it needs (absolutely necessary!) to be a metal composite type. The cardboard one WILL burn out and it's a PITA to do after the engines already in the car.
My vote would be for ARP head studs over bolts as well, especially considering you'll be paying a max of ~$20 more.
Any and every coolant hose is a good idea to replace. The ones I'd tell you to do without even thinking about are the 90* at the back of the head, along with the plug/cap that is just below it.
Valve seals will save you a lot of trouble later if you do them now. While you're doing that you can check valve/cam clearances. If you feel inclined, you can do the comp cams valve spring mod (part num 975-12, you'll need 2 boxes for a full set). Keep in mind that they are very difficult to get in, but they do fit. There will be cussing and swearing if you do it yourself and complaining from the shop if they do it, but I say again, they do fit!
My vote would be for ARP head studs over bolts as well, especially considering you'll be paying a max of ~$20 more.
Any and every coolant hose is a good idea to replace. The ones I'd tell you to do without even thinking about are the 90* at the back of the head, along with the plug/cap that is just below it.
Valve seals will save you a lot of trouble later if you do them now. While you're doing that you can check valve/cam clearances. If you feel inclined, you can do the comp cams valve spring mod (part num 975-12, you'll need 2 boxes for a full set). Keep in mind that they are very difficult to get in, but they do fit. There will be cussing and swearing if you do it yourself and complaining from the shop if they do it, but I say again, they do fit!
Was just reading an article. Some may find it interesting...
"During engine assembly or after intensive internal maintenance, it’s common practice to replace the factory head bolts. Head bolts, also known as torque-to-yield bolts, are designed as one-time use bolts and will permanently stretch once installed. OEM head bolts are designed to provide both a twisting force and a vertical clamping force, which means that when the combustion chamber begins to accumulate load, the bolt will both stretch and twist. Because the bolt has to react to two different forces simultaneously, its capacity to secure the head is slightly reduced and it forms a less reliable seal in high-powered engines.
By contrast, a head stud can be tightened into place without any direct clamping force applied through the tightening, as a nut is torqued into place against the stud. The nut torque provides the clamping force, rather than the torque of the fastener itself, and the rotational force is avoided entirely as the pressure from the nut will make it stretch only along the vertical axis without a concurrent twisting load. The result is a more evenly distributed and accurate torque load compared to that of the head bolt, and reduces the chance of head gasket failure.
From a manufacturing perspective, in order for a head bolt to be cost effective, it is often made from low-grade steel with a class rating of 10.9 and a typical tensile strength of 150,000 psiabout the same tensile strength as an SAE Grade 8 bolt available from your local hardware store. Aftermarket performance head stud companies like ARP manufacture fasteners from at least six different steel alloys ranging from 8740 chrome-moly to chromium-cobalt-nickel alloys and titanium, all using a cold forging process to ensure molecular integrity as well as being heat treated prior to thread rolling and machining to harden the metal. This patented metallurgical process enables ARP to manufacture a head stud with a tensile strength ranging from 180,000 to 270,000 psi, with strength and fatigue properties far superior to OEM head bolts."
"During engine assembly or after intensive internal maintenance, it’s common practice to replace the factory head bolts. Head bolts, also known as torque-to-yield bolts, are designed as one-time use bolts and will permanently stretch once installed. OEM head bolts are designed to provide both a twisting force and a vertical clamping force, which means that when the combustion chamber begins to accumulate load, the bolt will both stretch and twist. Because the bolt has to react to two different forces simultaneously, its capacity to secure the head is slightly reduced and it forms a less reliable seal in high-powered engines.
By contrast, a head stud can be tightened into place without any direct clamping force applied through the tightening, as a nut is torqued into place against the stud. The nut torque provides the clamping force, rather than the torque of the fastener itself, and the rotational force is avoided entirely as the pressure from the nut will make it stretch only along the vertical axis without a concurrent twisting load. The result is a more evenly distributed and accurate torque load compared to that of the head bolt, and reduces the chance of head gasket failure.
From a manufacturing perspective, in order for a head bolt to be cost effective, it is often made from low-grade steel with a class rating of 10.9 and a typical tensile strength of 150,000 psiabout the same tensile strength as an SAE Grade 8 bolt available from your local hardware store. Aftermarket performance head stud companies like ARP manufacture fasteners from at least six different steel alloys ranging from 8740 chrome-moly to chromium-cobalt-nickel alloys and titanium, all using a cold forging process to ensure molecular integrity as well as being heat treated prior to thread rolling and machining to harden the metal. This patented metallurgical process enables ARP to manufacture a head stud with a tensile strength ranging from 180,000 to 270,000 psi, with strength and fatigue properties far superior to OEM head bolts."
arp studs ftw...especially if you have any question of rust/debris in the threads (no matter how small) with bolts, your torque values can be skewed, but with studs all of the torque is applied at the top end of the new fastener...no question of mis-torquing with these. btw, you should still run a tap through your block just to be safe (drift motion has it for like 12 bucks i think) blow out the holes with compressed air so the studs will seat all the way.
same principal goes for any fastener in the motor, studs FTW!
same principal goes for any fastener in the motor, studs FTW!
what you need to tap the holes in called a bottom tap that's what I did and it worked out great no more threads showing. 12+1.25