the strangest timing problem - i am stumped

jacques

New Member
Jun 6, 2008
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baton rouge, la
i'm afraid this is going to be a wall of text, but i'll try to be as detailed as i can in describing this problem that has my mechanic and i totally stumped. the car is an 88 n/a 5sp.

noticing how poorly the car ran (really low on power, really bad on fuel economy), we first thought it was a fuel issue. all of the ignition components are new, so a fuel problem was our best bet. though we didn't actually get into changing the fuel pump and filter, we have reason to think there's another problem instead.

we were thinking that it may be a classic BHG almost a month ago-the car overheated on me, the coolant was way low, and the radiator/coolant system would be highly pressurized after running the car for even a few seconds. coupled with the poor performance, it seemed to fit. however, the overheating was explained away due to a stuck thermostat and the pressurized coolant system and missing coolant was explained away to a bad radiator. both of those problems were fixed.

before changing the fuel filter and pump, my mechanic thought to check the timing, as it may have been slightly off and throwing the system off. as it turns out, there is something really screwed up! if the car is perfectly in-time, it will start up and idle (like a champ) but that is it. it won't respond at all to any throttle input and will only idle, sounding pretty but not moving. the only way the car will move under its own power is if both cams are one tooth retarded and the ignition is one tooth retarded and the distributor is turned all the way advanced. what's more, the idle speed is constantly at 1200 rpms. after playing around with the timing and then setting it back OUT of time like it initially was in order to drive back home and troubleshoot, the idle dropped to around 750, but loped and missed terribly. after driving for a while, it seems to have returned to a more solid feel at 1200 rpms.

we've checked the cams, the timing gears, the CPS, everything that could be installed incorrectly to give a false impression of a car's timing, but it's all ok. we pulled codes on the computer and got only code 51-either ECU or TPS. i'm buying a new TPS, as it was cheaper than the ECU to try first, but if that doesn't solve the problem, and if the ECU doesn't solve the problem, then we are out of ideas. i'm sure there are a few more things we've tried, but i can't quite remember at the moment.

points of interest/question are if a BHG is still on the table and if one or more of the ignition components may be wrong.

the BHG is still questionable because i seem to still be inexplicably losing coolant (the radiator is full but the overflow tank was empty yesterday evening), i am losing oil without any leaks (but could simply be an old engine burning it off), and though it hasn't overheated since that one time when the thermostat was stuck, it typically runs at a temp slightly higher than half. we did a coolant system compression test this morning-the system wouldn't hold and lost 3 psi. as i was given to understand, a BHG would see that coolant pushed into one of the cylinders when the engine is off and the coolant system is pressurized, making it hard to start and making the engine misfire for a few seconds. however, the car started immediately and didn't miss. the exhaust has no coolant/oil smell at all and doesn't smoke. so a BHG is maybe still possible, but also maybe not very likely.

the other point of interest/question is concerning one or more of the ignition components. all of them were new when i got the car a few months ago, so i didn't get to oversee the accuracy of the ordering. i'm wondering if the previous owner ordered a distributor for a turbo supra, either by mistake or thinking that it would boost performance. the turbo distributor would drop right in and install, but may also give all kinds of problems like we're seeing.

i'm sure there are more clues and/or pieces to the puzzle, but i can't quite think of them at the moment. please please, if you have any ideas, throw them here. if it's something we've tried, it will remind me and we can continue the differential diagnosis, but we are so out of ideas. thanks so much for the help, anyone who can.
 

AJ'S 88NA

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Jul 26, 2007
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Florida
The TPS, did you set it per the TSRM? And I don't see were you did a compression test or leak down test. Sounds like a tired motor. Any water and oil mixed, white smoke?
 

Getsideways86.5

supra chris
Mar 1, 2007
41
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Fort Wayne Indiana
i am having the same problem with my 88 na.. i have no clue what is going on.. at 10 deg it idles normal with low power and spark knocks.. at 14 deg it runs great but throws a ing sig code along with a 52 code.. rad is full but over flow is empty.. im thinking it is a head gasket but it dont smell like coolant and no white smoke... when i lay into it, it smells like fuel so i dont know
 

AJ'S 88NA

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Jul 26, 2007
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Getsideways86.5;1080301 said:
i am having the same problem with my 88 na.. i have no clue what is going on.. at 10 deg it idles normal with low power and spark knocks.. at 14 deg it runs great but throws a ing sig code along with a 52 code.. rad is full but over flow is empty.. im thinking it is a head gasket but it dont smell like coolant and no white smoke... when i lay into it, it smells like fuel so i dont know
52 is knock sensor, it will retard the timing I believe and richen the mixture, JJ or CRE would know for sure. Did you set your timing with the jumper wire?
 

CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
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Denver, CO
Jaques... first off, the GTE doesn't use a distributor, so that not your issue.

Test you radiator cap if it's the spring loaded type... should hold 13psi.

Are you getting any diagnostic codes?

Have you checked to make sure that when the harmonic balancer reads at 0º that the number 1 piston is indeed a TDC? The harmonic balancer can dry out and slip at their age giving a false degree.

Have you tested the pH of the coolant to see if exhaust gases are leaking into the coolant system? I presume you've checked both coolant and oil for cross contamination?

Higher temperatures could be due to any number of things including: no fan shroud, a faulty sensor or retarded ignition timing.

Have you tested the AFM?



AJ, you're right on the pulling timing and adding fuel thing.
 

cuel

Supramania Contributor
Jan 8, 2007
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Baytown, Texas
Are the dowel pins that position the cam gears on the cams in the center hole of the gears and cams?
Did you pull the bottom timing cover, and check the timing mark on the belt crank sprocket(going back to what CRE said about the pulley slipping on the dampener)?
Would also check the distributor gears for wear, or oil in the dist. fouling the cps(cam position sensor).

GSW: I'd check for bad/fouled plugs and wires.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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I come from a land down under
Slipped outer ring on the damper.

Confirm TDC by pulling #1 plug and sitting a chopstick on the piston then turn the crank with a wrench till the Chopstick stops, compare the timing mark on the damper to the scale on the timing cover.
 

CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
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Denver, CO
Yeah well around here I've heard the expression "my mechanic" refer to the high school junior who's in the same auto shop class as the poster...
 

cuel

Supramania Contributor
Jan 8, 2007
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Baytown, Texas
^^ Lol, now that's funny :biglaugh:

I fix more shit that's been f'd up by other "mechanics" than you'd like to know about.
 

Getsideways86.5

supra chris
Mar 1, 2007
41
0
0
37
Fort Wayne Indiana
AJ'S 88NA;1080375 said:
52 is knock sensor, it will retard the timing I believe and richen the mixture, JJ or CRE would know for sure. Did you set your timing with the jumper wire?

yes i used the jumper wire.. this is my second supra, im not a newb.. but i figure out what the problem was.. the plugs were set at 30.. now maybe on the trubo car there at 30 but not on my na.. so i re gapped my plugs and i noticed the the number 6 cylender has fuel puddling up in it.. so im assumeing the missfire is caused by that and the injector needs replaced.. i regapped the plugs and fixed the timming once again. now it runs great with no codes.. still waiting on the injector to come in though.. oh and i put a 180 t-sat in also.. runs alot better. thanks for the help though
 

jacques

New Member
Jun 6, 2008
6
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baton rouge, la
sorry i didn't get to respond until today, but thanks for all the helpful suggestions!

the compression test showed some slight wear, but the numbers (which sadly, i don't recall) were within a few digits of each other, and weren't very far out of spec.

we've confirmed the TDC on #1 by doing exactly what you guys recommended. it is, in fact, hitting TDC. that was a great idea, just unfortunately not the case here.

the radiator and its cap are new-they haven't been explicitly tested like mentioned; we're rather assuming that they're OK by virtue of the fact they're new. we could test the cap anyway, just to be sure, though.

the dowel pins on the cams (if i've worded that correctly) have also already been checked, thinking they were installed incorrectly; it looks like the previous owner has been inside the engine before. i'm quite sure he was doing routine maintenance, as that's what all of the other work he's done to the car have been, and he styles himself as something of a DIYer (though apparently just not too keen on toyotas).

these were great ideas, and please, if anyone has any more, chime in!